June 2012
Could someone help me with purchasing a rewind tool .I have found a used one but dont know if it will fit .It is listed as universal but the seller doesnt know which cars it works on .
i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/miwool50/KGrHqVH...g... Read more
I paid £9 at Oxford station ticket office for a car parking ticket and the receipt was timed at 9.25am. I travelled to London by train and on return found that I had a Civil Parking Notice from APCOA timed at 10.55am saying I had not paid for my parking. I sent APCOA copies of the receipt and Notice, indicating the disparity in times. They replied by letter saying that I had not paid for my parking place and should send them £50. It seems they have not read my letter and are just trying it on. However, I do not want to fail by default.
Is there any further action you would recommend on my part? I 'phoned British Parking Association and they want me to send them details and have suggested I pay the penalty and then sue APCOA in the small claims court. This seems like a sledgehammer to crack a nut. Read more
hookster, you did say earlier that it was you who parked at the station!
Hi. Got myself into a bit of a situation. Any advice/comments greatly appreciated.
In February of this year I purchased a 60 plate Ford Fiesta with 23,000 miles on the clock. The seller (who initially started out as a private seller on Ebay) was very open about the fact that the vehicle had been involved in an accident and that the car had been written off as a Cat C and explained that the car had been fully repaired by himself. The ad said "The vehicle is Category C repaired. The damage was to the front driver side corner, very minor. All repairs have been carried out to very high standard"... Read more
Buyer beware however if you can prove he is a motor trader and he is bona fide then you will have some recourse if you get trading standards involved and explain the story to them. Also if you buy anything for this sort of money use a credit card next time that covers you in 2 ways by A proving he is a dealer and B the credit company is jointly liable for the goods.
I have to say though you have a long and hard battle on your hands if he is not going to play ball and i am in this trade!!!!
My wife has an honda civic 1.6 SE 2004. Her car has reached 70,000 which is close to time to renew timing belt if it is a belt. But there seems to be some dispute as to whether this year/engine has a chain or a belt ? Is it easy to tell ?
Thanks
Tony Read more
This car should have a belt.
Replacement interval is 75k or 8 years.
I've just had an 18000 mile service of my 2010 registered C-Max. I was alarmed that the garage reported that both front tyres had completely worn smooth on the inner edge.
When I queried whether this was normal (I don't think it should be!) I was told that this was common in the C-Max. I asked if the tracking could be at fault, the reply was that it might be worthwhile having it checked and adjusting for less toe in could result in a more normal wear pattern.... Read more
+1 to ChrisM. Our 2005 2.0TDCi Ghia (manual box) does about that on the fronts. On the upside, the tyres are only 16" 205's, so not too expensive. Michelin Primacy's were just under £90 each last month for us.
Hi all, I have recently bought a 2002 Ford Focus 1.6, petrol, manual transmission with 45k miles. I didn't notice at the time I viewed the car, but a mechanical whine is audble when the engine is idle. The noise goes away when the clutch is pressed. the noise is audible in 1st and 2nd but not in 3rd, 4th or 5th. I have been told that it is the main bearing in the gearbox but I had the gearbox replaced and the noise is still there; either the original diagnosis was incorrect or the garage are telling porkie pies about the work they did (would not be surprising at all given the shocking customer service). Any help in diagnosing this problem would be much appreciated. Cheers! Read more
If it stops when you depress the clutch it will mlost likely be the first motion shaft/primary shaft bearing or possibly the layshaft bearings as those are the only ones moving when you are stationary. You should be able to tell if they have replaced the gearbox by looking at it - it will be clean.
This is the first time I've posted on here so hopefully I'm following the forum rules with my post.
On a recent service with my 2006 Honda Civic I was charged 4 hours for the service at cost of 120 (excluding VAT) and amongst the charges for parts was 4 spark plugs (IZFR6K-11S) at 49.92 each (excluding VAT).... Read more
For goodness sake talk to the garage ! without knowing more details of your honda engine some of them take 8 plugs and have long life plugs at around £20 each.
twin plugs were fitted for improved economy and some of the speciali tip plugs were fitted for longer service intervals, especially the dsi engines....
(reposting from Motoring Discussion section)
I have posted before about clutch/DMF issues on the Focus 1.8 TDCi. I have recently bought one, 2009 with 134k. I decided that given the high mileage and a rattling sound that it would be prudent to change the clutch, DMF, slave cylinder and gearbox oil (as the car is young and in overall very good condition).
Having shelled out for the job, I was disappointed to find there's still a noticeable rattle when you stop the engine, right as it comes to a halt. Might be a bit on startup but harder to hear. I just want to check if this is normal for this model. I listened to a friend's 2.0 TDCi and couldn't hear it, but that may be a different setup?
From what I've read, it could be the auxillary drive belt tensioner, i.e. unrelated to the clutch/DMF.
There also seems to be some 'play' in the drive, so if you put your foot on and off the accelerator esp in first gear it jerks (I realise this is to be expected to an extent but I can feel quite a bit of play). It seems to be slightly worse than before I had the DMF/clutch changed. Maybe this is just normal too!
Obviously I want to go back to the garage asap if the above behaviour is not normal... Read more
Hi I have a 2010 s-max 1.8 tdci with the same running gear and have the same problem, only ford say that it is normal. Well my background as Peugeot Citroen main dealer technician for over 10 years, IMI diagnostic technician, Peugeot master technician, Citroen consultant technical Nomanie, CAT marine analasist in my present job technical staff for the RNLI, etc.
When I questioned the diagnosis that the rattle when switching the engine off was normal, I questioned the ford master tech why it had only developed in the last 3 weeks and not there before? His answer that they all do it, to which I replyed that it was not there before my boss has a galaxy with the same engine and has had it 3 yrs from new no noise? Ah some do some don't from the master tech. So what is the answer? All or some ????? In questioning his diagnosis over my concerns of possible failure of the dual mass flywheel or expensive backlash in the gearbox, he admitted that Theresa's a fault with the backlash being excessive causing the rattle on switching off the engine caused by me not pressing the clutch on switching off the engine as the noise is not there as the pressure is increased on the dual mass flywheel or disengaging the drive tithe gearbox, but I could pay for this repair as he feels that it is normal and not a warranty repair. If there is a fix or fault why is it not warranty? I have 2 Fords under 3 year and the I laws have 2 fords under 3 year old, with having this customer service from ford dealer network feel a little let down and disappointed.
I have spoke to Ford customer service uk and raised my concern as my young family are in the car, with the possibility of failure whilst I am working away.
That was Monday and that would contact the dealer for there findings and phone me back for a update within 24-48 hrs, still no reply today Saturday,ahold this make you think different about buying a ford?
Hi all
I suspect this is a query which is general to most rather than specific to my car, but I'd be interested to hear of resolutions.
The car is being used a bit more but only has sub 80k miles on clock. Over last few years it has developed a bit of a rattle as it got close to its annual service, which said annual service generally got rid of.
The recent service did not fix the rattle, which reappeared about 3 months before we took it in.
I'm concerned both that the rattle appears in first instance, and that it was not 'cured' during service. I'd appreciate advice or thoughts (particularly known weaknesses of this model) on underlying causes, and what we might do to fix.
To try to articulate, it sounds very 'tappety' and not far from the noise you might expect from a diesel - although not as intense. Engine response seems fine, no warning lights (one was reset during service) and no loss of power or excessive fuel consumption (it's the not the most economical in any case!) I appreciate it might sound like I'm worrying over nothing, but it is quite intrusive and I worry it's signifies something that needs treating.
The car is a Citroen Xsara Picasso, Exclusive 1.8 petrol, 2002 with 79k-ish on the clock. Serviced every year at time of MOT.
Any advice on likely causes and resolutions much appreciated. To reiterate, the garage do not see anything fundamentally wrong with it, although this is the first time they have returned it post-service with the noise still evident.
Ta
Matt
eta: Gah, sorry - on GSM connection so page doesn't always fully load, didn't notice this was in wrong section. Read more
Moved to Technical.
Bought my honda jazz (03) second hand in 2010 and for the first year had no complaints, found the engine kinda loud, but I heard that is the case with this model. Over the past year and a half the noise got louder, but again it didn't seem to be any sort of problem as it was a healthy sounding and consistent noise, like the previous type of noise.
Went for a drive today and there is a new kind of noise that definitely sounds like a problem. It's kind of like a knocking/rocking sound which gets worse as I move up gears and speed. It's not obvious when the car is just started or when idle, only when car is moving, and the faster i drive, the worse it gets. I obviously didn't drive it too much because of this, just went through a few junctions and then back again, and I was praying all the way back that the engine wouldn't actually kick out on me.... Read more
Ok, brilliant, i'll do those two tests on the car and then take it to the independent garage I guess! I'll let ye know how it goes, fingers crossed!
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You forgot that you should also get the inspection lamp nicely warmed up and then press the hot shroud against your arm, to save doing that later. Also smash your head against something solid rather than battering it on the underside of the car when your arm makes contact with the hot inspection lamp.
It's also worth putting your thumb on the workbench and smacking it with a hammer before starting. It's so much more difficult to get a good swing at it while under the car and it often takes several swipes, hitting other things, before getting a good solid thump on the thumb....