June 2012
Hi I hope someone can help me a little. I got implicated in an accident that I did not do so when my insurance company initially contacted me I immediately told them that I was not involved. 5 months later we get our renewal quote stating I had been in an accident so was £100s more than last year.
Again I contact the insurance company who tell me that the other insurance company involved have an independent witness who gave my reg. I then recieve a copy of the other parties statement which says that he was unaware of accident until a lady knocked on his door to tell him that she had seen a people carrier with my reg hit his car and drive off. My car was a hatchback and not a people carrier and being so long ago I can't be exactly sure of where I was at the time but can be certain that I had no damage to my car as I did not hit anything.... Read more
Hi All
I desperately need someones help. I recently bought a car and as soon as I bought it I got fully comprehensive insurance on it. It has a current MOT but doesn't have tax. It was today towed away and impounded for the no tax. However, the DVLA still don't have it in my name as they say it can take 4-6 weeks to process and that's if the guy I bought the car from sent it off straight away. My insurance documents haven't arrived yet and the post office I went to to get my tax told me I had to bring in original insurance documents to prove my insurance. So I cannot get my tax at the post office and cannot order it online as it still isn't in my name. I live in a terraced house and so don't have a driveway and therefore cannot take it off the road. I just think this is SO unfair. I could buy the tax today its not like I'm trying to avoid it. The impound are going to want hundreds of pounds from me to get my car back and I cannot do it yet as they will want to see the tax first. Plus they conveniently close at 16:30 just before I was able to call them so I will have to wait until the morning.... Read more
Since the OP's not been back I'd guess the situation is resolved.
In 30 odd years of driving I've forgotten the tax, or filed it under do later/when paid a few times. In reality I think you'd be extremely unlucky to be reported for prosecution until a month overdue. I also suspect crushing would be regarded as disproportionate for those other than proven serial evaders.
After replacing my rear brake shoes I tried to tightened up the handbrake but it still has slack in the cable once has been fully tightened. It would tighten up before I replaced them. Anyone any ideas whats wrong?
Thanks... Read more
...
Story so far:
i) Pulling away from traffic lights noticed that there was no acceleration (revs) though the car did gradually increase speed. It was as if the car had gone into limp mode. Pulled into ASDA car park and stopped the car. When I tried to start again the car just turned over. RAC came out but they couldn't get me going so flat bedded the car to the garage I use.
ii) Initial diagnosis was the camshaft sensor which I believe was diagnosed from the fault codes. I don't believe the fault was however confirmed by an checks at sensor. They replaced the sensor but car still didn't start.
iii) They then told me that they were not getting an output from the camshaft sensor on pin 2. though there was not mention of the reference voltage to sensor. They then diagnosed the problem to be the ECU. I wasn't prepared to pay the £600+ for a new ECU as I wasn't really convinced that this was going to be the issue. I sourced a used one and all the associated parts (Locks, transponder etc). These were fitted (in very slow time) and the fault was still there.
iv) Again I was told that he still wasn't getting any output from sensor (CMPS) at which point I asked him about the reference voltage to the sensor. The results he was getting at the sensor were 1.3v at pin 1, 0v at pin 2 and Ground at pin 3. I gave the garage some info i had on the 'Common Rail Diesel Fuel System' and I believe and hope that they carried out the correct checks on the harness.
v) The next thing I hear from garage is that all inputs / outputs at ECU are good apart from sensor and he was going to slave in a cable from ECU to sensor and see what we get. Didn't hear back from garage till this morning when he basically said that everything was good to/from ECU apart from the voltage to the Crankshaft sensor. I am not really sure when the fault apparently changed to the CKPS as this is the first time I have heard this sensor mentioned. He has said he doesn't know what else to do now.
I was a little confused at this as i believed the CKPS was an inductive type so therefore has no need for an external voltage. I tried to explain this but was told "the later type of crank sensor is the same configuration as the cam sensor i.e requires a 5 v feed"
So effectively the garage have had my car nearly two months and I am no further forward with this and the car still wont start. I hope all the above makes sense.
Looks like i am going to have to look at this myself so would appreciate any advise on this and some info on where the sensors are located. photos would be really good if anyone has them.
thanks for looking
Regards
Paul
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Copy of an email sent to Citizens Advice following 15 mths trying to resolve an issue with firstly Nissan cusomer services, and then directly with the MD of Nissan GB. I failed with Nissan, and contacted Citizens Advice. They suggested I contact you with a view to 'airing' the issue. It reads as follows, together with a link to a forum which includes other unhappy X Trail owners;
... Read more
I had the oppurtuniy to use the one as described in the OP and it was absolutely perfect.
there is a problem with the timing chain on my micra we suspect, camshaft and crankshaft sensor has been changed. I hear this is a very expensive job what i would like to know is if this is a common problem with micras off this year the milage off this car is not high. I had a 1998 micra before and it never gave me any issues until old age took over Read more
K12 micras from 2002-5 have a serious problem with worn timing chains and unfortunately not a cheap fix.Mileage does not seem to be a contributary factor as I have seen them worn out at 20k miles.It would appear that this issue has been fixed on later models.hth
hi, i have the option for a new company car and was wondering what people's opinions where about the power of the 1.3 (start stop) cdti compared to the 1.7?
95% of the time i am driving on my own and occasionally i go camping with the family (2 kids and the other half) with the car fully loaded. would the 1.3 cdti be ok?... Read more
Mike T, I'd be interested to know - have you experienced the aforementioned vibration with your 1.3 diesel?
Sorry, must have missed - is your car the Corsa, or the Astra (estate?)?...
looking for some owner experiences on these engines at roughly 150k. what should i look out for when buying etc. looking to spend between £1000 and £1500 on 03 04 models. thanks in advance Read more
My 2 litre Hdi (110) in a Xsara estate has now clocked 217k miles. I’ve kept to the service schedule of 12.5k oil and filter changes and 100k cambelt changes.
To summarise the engine components changed under my ownership i.e. from 74k to 217k miles:
Bottom engine pulley at 145k (went noisy). Water temperature sender changed around the same time (erratic reading on the instrument panel temperature gauge). EGR valve at 208k (vacuum leak on this device was causing a loss of performance). Vacuum pump and flexible tubing at 208k (changed in the course of my tracing a problem with lack of braking assist).
Both the engine pulley and the EGR replacement cost me about £300 each, the vacuum pump about half that and the sender was just a few pounds.
The engine currently performs as well as it did when I first bought it, remains just as economical, is oil and water tight and consumes very little oil between changes.
When working as intended, this engine is a great blend of performance and economy. You can use the performance without it noticeably affecting the consumption.
Based on my experience with this engine, a properly maintained 150k specimen shouldn’t be a problem. It’s the rest of the car you will need to evaluate. Condition is everything…has it been looked after?
If it hasn’t already had a clutch, budget for one soon, mine went at 185k, but had been heavy to operate for some time. As for the mechanicals, the suspension, steering braking and transmission have all been very reliable on my car. I assume the Picasso has similar components.
For most readers of this forum, even those who drive the “reliable makes” 150k is a mileage they won’t ever reach, let alone consider buying at. You will need to budget for replacing aged components. Both these considerations should affect the sale price to your advantage, even for one in good condition. Don’t spend too much.
My hybrid bicycle was stolen at the weekend. It was a nice hybrid although I think that the frame was a tad too big for me. Also I do not unstand all the technical stuff about the quality of the crank,gears etc. All I know is that I am better with an alloy frame, no suspension and I think I want 21 or 24 gears.
I want to spend no more than 400 GBP.
Can someone advise me as to what I should be looking for. I do a mix of off-road (canal tow paths etc) and on road cycling, say about 20 miles a week at most.
Thanks Read more
He's back with more spam!
(Thanks - hidden)
Since I bought my Seat Leon 1.6TDI CR, I have been having varying fuel consumption results. I was told to adapt my driving style, and that has certain helped, however, I definitely think there is a problem with the car.
The problem I've noticed, is if I start the engine from cold, and let it get up to temperature, it NEVER reaches full efficiency, and it feels like an engine with 80BHP instead of 105BHP.
If I then stop for around 10-15 minutes, and turn the engine back on (whilst it's still warm), the MPG takes a massive jump up, especially on the live data display. The power also feels like it should. This is how I would have thought the car would perform all of the time.
I decided to do a test. I started the engine cold, got it up to temperature and went to the motorway nearby. I reset the trip when I reached 70mph, and stuck cruise control on. I did a 10 mile journey to the end of the motorway, made a note of the reading, and then did the exact same thing back up the other side (waiting until 70mph to reset the trip etc). I averaged the two readings. at 52.9mpg.
I then stopped the engine for 20 minutes, got a cup of tea etc. I then did the exact same test on the exact same bit of motorway. The average mpg this time around was 65.4mpg. A MASSIVE jump.
Around town I noticed an mpg jump of about 10 mpg from when the engine is started cold and brought up to temperature compared to when started warm.
All the mpg readings have been done when the engine is up to temperature, there is no warm up period included in any figures.
Do you have any idea what could be causing this? Someone on another forum said they noticed similar symptoms in a Mondeo with a faulty temperature sensor/thermostat. I've also read that it could be the MAF.
I have fully activated VAG COM, so if anyone could suggest anything I could be maybe monitor to take to SEAT, because, as usual, I'm just getting the old 'we're not having an issue when we drive it'.
Thanks guys
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Hi
I do mostly motorway miles, not a lot of stuff around town, it's been 400km since my last regen according to VCDS.
I'm going to try monitoring as many temperatures as I can, as well as the MAF on startup and see what happens.
Does anyone think it could be anything else?
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Excellent news and many thanks for letting us know.