May 2014
Hi
I currently own a metallic blue 2003 citroen berlingo multispace 1.9 diesel, its a great car with plenty of space and only covered 58k miles, but i am thinking of selling it and buying a citroen nemo, bipper or qubo car because they are newer and i think look better.... Read more
My Brother in Law has owned a 1.8 litre Mazda MX-5 since new, first reg 2005 but the original Panasonic Gel Battery has become so deeply discharged that none of the usual battery revival techniques seem to be effective. The car is left for weeks at a time unused with the alarm armed and as a result the battery becomes deeply discharged. He bought a set of new tyres for it last August and had to get a push start from a pasing Rugby Player when it stalled on the way home and would not restart due to severe chronic battery capacity/output depletion. Since then the car has only been started and driven once (by using jumper leads from a good battery) for about 20 miles, just a few weeks ago after many months of neglect and then more recently trickle charging for more than three weeks (at about half an amp) alternating with normal charging at about 3 to 4 amps. The 'settled open circuit voltage' is always a healthy 12.6 to 12.8 volts but as soon as you apply a load to it, even just sidelights, the voltage falls to below 12 volts and attempting to engage the starter motor/solenoid just results in a rapid clicking noise, at the best, and battery volts falling to below 8 volts, even just on full beam headlamps with the engine not running. Everything else electrics wise seems to be ok and once 'started on the jump leads' the engine ran smoothly and battery volts stabilised at around 14.8 volts with the alternator keeping things all hunky dory!
Does anyone know how to 'disolve or disperse' the heavy sulphation in the honeycomb lead matrix inside this relatively young battery (Owners say that used daily, these batteries can last for over 15 years) to release the full surface area and the associated 200 amps or so necessary to turn the starter motor over?... Read more
Maybe buy a charger and slow charge the car, when not used. Under no circumstances do so in a garage for safty reasons
Alex
Don't want to give specifics in case I have to get legal people involved, but I recently traded in my previous car as PX for a different make/model at an independent dealer. New car is great, finance on new car sorted no problem.
As part of the PX there was negative equity on the value of the car I traded in versus the PX valuation which I covered as part of the PX deal.... Read more
It certainly seems that you have done as much as you could and well done for persevering.
Please keep us informed of progress or if you need any further assistance.
My car has covered 36k from new. I had a misfire on Cylinder 1 which was first diagnosed as a coil pack. When this was changed it did not fix it so a compression test revealed there was a deeper problem. With the head off the piston had a piece missing from the top which looked like it had melted. Unfortunately this appears to have scarred the lining of the block. The independent garage have said I will need a replacement engine as the thickness of the block will not allow any rebore. I trust the garage and have inspected the engine. My beef is with VW , this is a DSG model and has not been thrashed by me since new. Will I have any claim against VW that you know off and is this a known problem? Thank you Read more
Thanks but the garage have said that the walls of the block are too thin for a rebore. Option of new block and extra labour or a recon engine. I'm pursuing the original dealer where I bought the car from new in the hope of some goodwill
Hi all I have a vectra c 58 plate 1.8 with the xer engine and I can't find the location of the camshaft position sensor I have removed the upper camshaft cover and no sign any help would be great please Read more
Thank you I will do all that you mention and get back to thanks again
Steve
I have a 2004 1.4 tdci fiesta. Its done 140K. I do 22K a year in it. I am a window cleaner so there's quite a bit of stop and start but also a bit of 60mph throughout the week. I have not been keeping up on my filter/oil changes (as i know i should - very naughty!). Its been getting a bit louder lately - turning the music up higher now. The manual says i should be using 5w30. 5w30/10w40 for top ups. Should i be going with fully synthetic or semi? Any thoughts. I was going to go with Castrol Magnatec Read more
Since my 2006 Fiesta Tdci passed 100K miles and is now on 185K, I took the decision to use a fully synthetic 5w/40 with an A3/B3 or B4 spec., rather than the 'recommended' 5w/30. I have used Mobil 1 0w/40 through a particularly cold winter, on the idea that a '0w' rating would be better for starting on an icy morning, although Comma 'Syner-D' 5w/40 which I normally use in winter causes no problems - it always starts first turn. Last month, Euro Car Parts were offering a 5w/40 (5L) for less than fifteen quid, and you got a 'free' oil filter with it, so the Fiesta has that in it now, and at that low price, I'll give it an extra oil change in another month or so. Whether I'm right or wrong, the thing keeps going. It's had its problems over the years, but its always got me home.
For clean running, try the often-mentioned 200:1 shot of two-stroke oil in your diesel (that, in the Fiesta, is 150ml of two-stroke oil in the tank when filling up from the yellow pump light coming on). You won't get 2T cheaper than Morrisons - £2 for 500ml bottle or £4 a litre.
I have a 2013 Kia Sorento ... a great car, and when underway also a good tow car ... self levelling suspension really does teh job, no snaking or pitching from trailer.... Read more
Well after many emails and discussions to Kia CEO and customer services about rejecting the car for "not fit for purpose" and New Car Code, and discussing this with the Kia dealer Principle, Kia have agreed to add the clutch to the 7 year warranty as they do not have a fix for the clutch smell.
So at least I have a bit of piece of mind they will replace it if it gives up, (2 years is the time frame normally for clutches)
My high level Brake light has failed. Manual says can only be dealt with by Nissan dealer, presumably at high cost. Is the bulb accessible for a D-I-Y fix please? Also not sure if this is an MOT failure but other two brake lights working fine. Thanks. Read more
I have changed a rear brake bulb and can confirm that it is a very easy fix as described above.
Hi,
I have recently developed a problem with my 2004 Seat Leon 1.6 16v. From cold the car runs fine and I can drive it perfectly well. However, after around half an hour or when the car has warmed up it becomes nearly undriveable around town/moving off.... Read more
Lets just say that went badly wrong lol!
Took the old sensor out but it had no O ring on so I was confused and put the new one in its place, but it didnt seem to fit that well. I thought nothing of it as the C clip seemed to hold it all tight in place....
I had to manually put my roof down on my 307 cc and now it won't budge at all. Does anyone know where the hydraulic fluid is for me to check?? Read more
Where was the bit that u needed??
It is appreciated that you have come back to tell us what you decided.