April 2014
Hi,
I have had my car in for a pre-mot and it has failed with the back brakes being rubbish !
Apparently , the brake servo is fine, as the foot pedal behaves as it should.
The mechnic said I may need to adjust the shoes outwards.
I've had a look on t'internet,
some have a toothed wheel to turn, to move the shoes out
but i cannot find one on mine !
When I jack the back up and turn the back wheel there is no resistance from the brakes.
When driving the brakes seem okish, (I have got used to them)
but are not hard.
Could it be a dodgy cylinder?
Any tips would be welcome, as I am agog with googlin' :)
Please see the pictures of both back brakes here
s103.photobucket.com/user/liammcl_2006/library/Pre...1
Cheers
Liam Read more
My Audi (latest model) is currently running on Pirelli Cinturato P7 tyres which are causing a considerable noise into the cabin, which is so disappointing when the engine (1.4 C.O.D.) petrol turbo is so quiet and refined.
Can anyone please recommend the quietest running tyre available currently, which would be much appreciated?... Read more
Try this instead, grab a few duvets from the house and place them over the likely sources of sound first.
The first place i would fold them over is the rear wheelarches and the rear floor/side panel area, i predict a much reduced noise problem with those in place there, obviously you can check all areas of the car like this....
Hi guys,
I have a slight problem and was wondering if anyone could help. I have a BMW 318i SE and the key fob will unlock the car and the boot, but the lock button isn't working. To lock the car I have to take the key out the fob and use it manually. Does anyone know how to reprogram this (without going to a dealer)? This is a stop/start button ignition on a BMW 318i SE 2006.
Thanks for your help! Read more
Yeah, the central dash has the unlock/lock button and this works correctly.
What experiences has anyone had of buying and running an ex-driving school or ex-driving instructor car? Received wisdon is that the clutch will be shot and the gearbox on its last legs, but is this what people have experienced? The trade avoids them or marks them well down in price, so is a 12 plate Fiesta 1.25 Edge with 45-50k on the clock a reasonable buy at less than £6500? I'd be interested to hear of actual experiences, rather than supposition. Read more
Although not ex-driving school cars I've had 2 ex-rental cars. A Fiat Punto and a Hyundai i10. Never had any problwms with the i10 and although the Punto's power steering failed after 3 years I don't think that was anything to do with the previous owner - it's a common problem unfortuneatley.
Hi everybody
Any help much appriciated
I broke down and had the aa tow the car to my local garage
On dashboard it said fuel injector fault
The garage said he replaced an injector at cost of £495
2 days later same thing happened I broke down and aa took car back to garage he replaced the other 3 injectors and had my car. Week
He then phoned me and said car wasn't running with other injectors in and said he wouldn't charge me for the the injectors and basically told me to sell cars as spares and repairs he said there is so many faults thst came up but I feel he has charged me for a problem he not fixed any ideas Read more
You don't want to let a 'local garage' play with your injectors! Doing that has cost me money! Find your nearest diesel specialist as they are the people with the correct tools, knowlege and diagnostic equipment.
I am disappointed with the performance of the wide tyres on my current vehicle an A4 Black Edition 2.0 TDI Audi. These are 255/35Y R19 Continentals - in particular with their contribution to fuel economy; also performance as soon as I am off of a level tarmac surface; as well as handling when cornering at speed.
The OP can easily check for compatability by referring to the plate on the inside of the driver's door or the owner's handbook, which should give which tyres and wheel combinations can be used as standard with the car.
I just changed those on my Mazda3 from 205/55 R16V to 195/65 R15H which was allowable by Mazda (plate and handbook, and I checked with my dealership), and I also checked with my insurer and it was fine, well, better than fine - I actually got a reduction in my premium of £15 and (as a long standing customer) they waived the fee for changing my policy mid-year (normally £25)....
Drove my car the night before ok and in the morning the Immobilizer light was on with the dashboard road lights indicator flashing constantly and the wipers being active. I can hear the fuel pump priming, the engine turns over but it won't start because the injectors are disabled by the ecu.
I have replaced the complete set of identical ECU, BSI unit and lock and key with transponder and no joy, exactly the same symptoms.
ECU diagnostics check suggested the Comm 2000 unit could be at fault. I have changed this too but no change.
Fuses had been checked and ok. What is puzzling is the blinking of dashboard road light indicator and wipers moving which I cannot stop and when I put the ignition on, the immobilizer light is on.
Any ideas anyone? Everyone else advised me to ditch the old lady...shame as it is mechanically sound.
Thanks
Dan Read more
thank you for your help.
i believe the problem lies with connectors underneath the driver side carpet....
Hello all,
Apologies for this second thread - I am trying to buy a reliable mpv with good mpg.... Read more
I have the 1.8tdci in a 2005 Focus. It's only done 55,000, no problems, no particular issues that I'm aware of.
I have recently bought this car, does anyone no if the 4500 rds eon is compatiable with bluetooth, it has a button with phone on but that just seems to mute the radio and do nothing else? Any suggestions? Read more
This radio is not fitted with bluetooth,but there are plenty of add on kits that can be wired in to work through the radio speaker system.Parrot 3100 is favourite.www.parrot.com/uk/support/parrotck3100ck3300ck3500/
Hi,
I have a 4 year old, 2010 Auris. Bought from a dealer second hand, had it 6 months.... Read more
The trouble with carbon build up is that carbon deposits are not soluble in water (or pretty much any other solvent including petrol). That's why it's such a pain to get rid of. The water trick will clean piston crowns and valves (basically from thermal shock causing differential expansion between the metal and the carbon causing it to spall off).
I've not really found the water trick very effective. Modern manifolds are designed for dry flow so most of the ingested water goes to only one or two cylinders-which is worse than cleaning none....
Browse
^^^ that electric hammer is a must have, it's on my birthday list :-)
Keep it up Liam, there's years in that Pug yet.