February 2012
I have just purchased a new Citroen C3 Picasso and, as I drive too and from Spain twice a year, opted for a full size spare wheel. It was with some irritation therefore that I discovered that it did not fit into the recess where the skinny spare sits. This is not a problem on the outward journey, but coming home it takes up space urgently required for rioja.
Also, I notice that Citroen Assistence does not cover punctures, misfueling, running out of fuel and lockoutsb but I see from their website that Citroen offer to include this cover for an extra £20 a year. I was not offered this by the main dealer, and when I enquired he new nothing about it.... Read more
Hi All,
Ive been looking at a Citroen C5 tourer (2010) in the VTR+ Nav spec. Its a nice looker, and seems well put together. The only thing Im unsure about is the engine, as its a big heavy car for a 1.6l. I did give it a brief test drive, and compared to my old mondeo tdci, you do have to work the citroen more.... Read more
I have the saloon 2.7 HDi which is quick. Apart from the pulling power, I agree that the cars' are bargains - relatively - and so far no problems with it after 33,000. All the extras you could want and no one else has one either!
hi.... im in need of help before i go into meltdown...... i have bought a 2004 1.9d van and the thing wont start. the fault finder has given me the code p0170 which from what i can see could be 1 of many things..... my machine is saying INJECTION BEGIN CONTROL.... does anyone know what this means..... CHEERS Read more
I think this will be refering to the start of injection coil located on one of the fuel injectors, injector 4 I believe. Unplug it from the loom & check its resistance with a meter, should show about 1000 ohms at a guess. It detects when the injector opens & is used by the ECU to make a fine adjustment to the injection timing.
Wouldn't have thought it would have stopped it from running though....
My accelerator pedal in my Mazda 6 is sticking - I have to press hard and then it 'snaps' to normal behaviour, which means I've essentially lost my fine throttle control. It's worse in colder weather, which somehow doesn't surprise me.
How can I fix it? It's really annoying! I wonder if there's gunk in the throttle vavle housing and if I can get in there and clean it out. I reckon I can just whip off the air intake hose but I have no idea what I can clean it with that's 'safe'. Or, indeed, if I am thinking along the right lines.... Read more
Haha thanks guys. I don't look in this section very often.
The warmer weather appears to have sorted this out. I bought a can of WD40 but didn't actually spray any................!...
My 2006 focus is due for its 6 yr service and the Ford agent tells me that the DPF should be replaced at a cost of several hundred pounds.The car has only done 55k as opposed to the usual 75k or thereabouts. Is it really necessary to re;lace at this stage. Read more
Mine has nearly 100k has the original DPF and is still fine.
...
My father has recently passed away, and I have taken ownership of his car (a Nissan Note). Unfortunately it stinks of cigarette smoke, as he was a driving smoker.
I would NEVER buy a car which a smoker has owned because of the disgusting smell inside, but this is a different situation........ Read more
you can get a smoke bomb type thing that you set off inside the car and it fills the car with stuff that kills the smell of smokers
It's probably as effective as those little green 'trees' people hang on the rear-view mirrors. Hide one aroma under a slightly nicer one.
good evening, after last service, mazda say the clutch has some wear will need replacing before too long. when asked how this was determined there was no reply other than their experience, after 50k even i can say that there is some wear, but as it still feels ok and drives normally, I'm loathed to have the clutch changed prematurely ( £545 mazda quote) when there is no obvious need other than mazdas opinion, but don't want thecar to letme down. any help or opinions appreciated
regards phil Read more
I think the largest variable in determining clutch life is the driver/driving style.
Too true. I remember that when I owned my old MGB and drove it as my daily commute, my local MG specialist once asked me why my clutches lasted well over two years whereas every other one they dealt with, that was used as a daily driver in London traffic, barely scraped through one....
hi, i recently purchased a ford mondeo 2.0 zetec(2001),i put in £40 of petrol,and that lasted me 195 miles before it ran out completely,i drive sensible so dont speed about,most of the miles are local,wat sort of miles should i be getting and do i have a possible fault.thankyou. Read more
I have the same engine in a mazda 6
I get around 30mpg around town, 38-40mpg on the motorway; it's a 4-speed auto
Got a "steering fault" message on the Modus today. Power steering no longer operational. Scanner code comes up with "106" which is an ECU fault apparantly. I've checked all fuses and they are fine. I've also disconnected the battery to see if that resets anything overnight. Any thoughts on what else it could be or how much to fix if I need a new steering column (with electric power steering motor)? Read more
All fixed now. £100 for a steering column and motor from a scrapped Modus on Ebay. Fitted and configured by a local independent for £170.00, so £270.00 all in. Could have been a lot worse.
Hi all,
I have a 1998 Peugeot 306 1.9 diesel which, 2 nights ago, I went to start as normal but after the glow plug light had gone out on the dash turning the key to start the engine caused all electrics to fail.
When I had time to investigate more thoroughly the following day I checked all the fuses is both the fuse boxes (in the engine compartment near the battery, and under the drivers-side console), but all were fine. I then checked the battery (which was only replaced a few months ago) and that also appears to be charged and in full working order.
I tried a number of things to narrow the problem down but was getting non-deterministic results (i.e. I would try something and get one result, but when I tired the exact same thing a few minutes later it'd get a different result). As this didn't make a lot of sense to me I decided to do a bit of research online and ended up going down the route of suspecting the immobiliser, but everything I've seen referred to that would fix/reset it don't seem to apply to my car (I have no fob - which I think is what's commonly referred to as a plip; there's no 'grey squares' under the rear seat behind the driver; and no reset button on the right-hand side of the steering column; also, the spare key gives exactly the same result)
Last night I was again testing things and the good news is that it's behaving a lot more deterministically now (I can run the same test multiple times and get the same result each time). This is making me wonder if I've got a short somewhere, due to water ingress, that is slowly getting better as it dries out?
Things that I've witnessed that I believe are significant so far include:
1) Although right before the fault I was able to get the glow plugs to activate (although the only evidence I have of this is the glow plug light on the dash illuminating and then going out a few seconds later), I am now no longer able to get this far in that starting sequence. As soon as I turn the ignition to position 2 all electrics cut out.
2) If I turn the ignition to position 1 I can active the sidelights (and rear lights), but as soon as I try to active dimmed headlights, or full beams, all electrics cut out.
3) After electrics have cut out nothing will operate until I switch the ignition off completely. At that point the central locking and courtesy light will again have power. I can then go ahead and turn the ignition to position 1 and get sidelights, as stated above.
4) When I was testing things the other day I noticed the one of the relays located with the fuse box under the drivers-side console was ticking. This ticking was regular in timing, but occasionally would 'skip' a tick and occasionally would tick even more rapidly for a few seconds before return back to its regular ticking speed. I did not observe this ticking when I tested last night.
5) On a couple of occasions while testing (sorry I didn't pay a lot of attention to exactly what tests at the time) the clock has been reset. This doesn't happen with every test, which to me suggests that what I've referred to above as 'all electrics cut out' isn't actually a total loss of electrical power.
Anyone got any thoughts on what else I should be investigating?
Russell Read more
This effect is caused by the high resistance connection being able to supply a small ammount of current, perhaps an amp or two, but when you engage the starter you are drawing several hundred amps which just burns out the connection. It can reform with no current flowing until the next time you try.
Browse
Citroen Assist in it's simplest form only covers faults with the Citroen car, not issues outside of Citroen's control, such as everything you listed. Generally, it is recommened you do not attempt to change a tyre and the side of a motorway anyway.
Get proper cover and call the professionals.