February 2012

kevyg

hi, i recently purchased a ford mondeo 2.0 zetec(2001),i put in £40 of petrol,and that lasted me 195 miles before it ran out completely,i drive sensible so dont speed about,most of the miles are local,wat sort of miles should i be getting and do i have a possible fault.thankyou. Read more

balleballe

I have the same engine in a mazda 6

I get around 30mpg around town, 38-40mpg on the motorway; it's a 4-speed auto

csgmart

Got a "steering fault" message on the Modus today. Power steering no longer operational. Scanner code comes up with "106" which is an ECU fault apparantly. I've checked all fuses and they are fine. I've also disconnected the battery to see if that resets anything overnight. Any thoughts on what else it could be or how much to fix if I need a new steering column (with electric power steering motor)? Read more

csgmart

All fixed now. £100 for a steering column and motor from a scrapped Modus on Ebay. Fitted and configured by a local independent for £170.00, so £270.00 all in. Could have been a lot worse.

russasaurusRex

Hi all,

I have a 1998 Peugeot 306 1.9 diesel which, 2 nights ago, I went to start as normal but after the glow plug light had gone out on the dash turning the key to start the engine caused all electrics to fail.

When I had time to investigate more thoroughly the following day I checked all the fuses is both the fuse boxes (in the engine compartment near the battery, and under the drivers-side console), but all were fine. I then checked the battery (which was only replaced a few months ago) and that also appears to be charged and in full working order.

I tried a number of things to narrow the problem down but was getting non-deterministic results (i.e. I would try something and get one result, but when I tired the exact same thing a few minutes later it'd get a different result). As this didn't make a lot of sense to me I decided to do a bit of research online and ended up going down the route of suspecting the immobiliser, but everything I've seen referred to that would fix/reset it don't seem to apply to my car (I have no fob - which I think is what's commonly referred to as a plip; there's no 'grey squares' under the rear seat behind the driver; and no reset button on the right-hand side of the steering column; also, the spare key gives exactly the same result)

Last night I was again testing things and the good news is that it's behaving a lot more deterministically now (I can run the same test multiple times and get the same result each time). This is making me wonder if I've got a short somewhere, due to water ingress, that is slowly getting better as it dries out?

Things that I've witnessed that I believe are significant so far include:

1) Although right before the fault I was able to get the glow plugs to activate (although the only evidence I have of this is the glow plug light on the dash illuminating and then going out a few seconds later), I am now no longer able to get this far in that starting sequence. As soon as I turn the ignition to position 2 all electrics cut out.

2) If I turn the ignition to position 1 I can active the sidelights (and rear lights), but as soon as I try to active dimmed headlights, or full beams, all electrics cut out.

3) After electrics have cut out nothing will operate until I switch the ignition off completely. At that point the central locking and courtesy light will again have power. I can then go ahead and turn the ignition to position 1 and get sidelights, as stated above.

4) When I was testing things the other day I noticed the one of the relays located with the fuse box under the drivers-side console was ticking. This ticking was regular in timing, but occasionally would 'skip' a tick and occasionally would tick even more rapidly for a few seconds before return back to its regular ticking speed. I did not observe this ticking when I tested last night.

5) On a couple of occasions while testing (sorry I didn't pay a lot of attention to exactly what tests at the time) the clock has been reset. This doesn't happen with every test, which to me suggests that what I've referred to above as 'all electrics cut out' isn't actually a total loss of electrical power.

Anyone got any thoughts on what else I should be investigating?

Russell Read more

Peter.N.

This effect is caused by the high resistance connection being able to supply a small ammount of current, perhaps an amp or two, but when you engage the starter you are drawing several hundred amps which just burns out the connection. It can reform with no current flowing until the next time you try.

keithleonard

Hello,

I have searched the web, and found several answers on how to reset the service warning light on my vectra... Read more

Dynamic Dave

Are you mistaking the car/spanner light for the service light? Several people do.

Reason I ask is that the Vec-B doesn't have a service light as such. When service time is due the word "InSP" temporarily displays in the trip odometer display when you first turn the key, then shortly afterwards reverts back to the trip display reading. In short, the service message doesn't remain displayed for more than a few seconds....

iyarno

I just started getting an strange problem with my gearbox (2002 1.4 MPI Fabia). When the car is cold, everything is fine, however after warming the car up and driving for 20 mins the gearbox seems to 'stiffen up'. It gets difficult to engage 1st and impossible to engage reverse. I have to wait for the engine (and gearbox oil?) to cool down before the gearbox feel normal again and I can engage reverse.

Should I check the gearbox oil levels and replace all the gearbox oil? It's on about 65k miles. There doesn't seem to be a leak of any kind. Or is this a cable adjustment problem or something else entirely.

Any pointers or recommendations gratefully received.

Thanks, Ian Read more

Collos25

The OP may not come back but I suspect the answer from Peter will apply in just the same manner.

penny15

Hi, Does anyone have any advice on whether buying a 2007 2.5 S Max with 116,000 miles would be a good/bad move? Going to view one later and need to know if the high mileage would be a problem!

Thanks... Read more

Happy Blue!

Do you really want a 2.5T? very expensive to run, although no doubt a hoot to drive, I have a simple 2.0TDCi with six speed auo (albeit with 18" wheels) and I love it.

john ob

I have a undocumented code fault reading p2459 could anyone enlighten me on what it is?Thanks! If i have to pay a auto-electrician, how much would i be looking at. I have been around a few diagnopstic computers at a cost to me already. Read more

topman4it

P2459 Indicates DPF which is the diesel particle filter, usually cars that have done about 70k miles start to have this issue, if the car is only used for short runs it usually happens sooner. Sometimes the car will go into limp mode and wont go over 40MPH, The red light also usually comes on as well sometimes flashing. The cost of a replacement at a dealer is usually around £400-£500. If you buy a DPF from a motor factor it will usually be around £220 + VAT, that is what I paid for the last one. You must make sure it is "type approved" as the other ones are illegal. They are very fiddly to fit as the heat shield is awkward to remove but should take about an hour and a half to fit. Lastly you may have to get somebody to do a regeneration programme on it but you need specific diagnostic equipment for this job. Hope this helps

evee2000

53 Plate 2.9ltr Terracan.

Our Terracan has developed an intermittent overheating problem on long journeys. After about 50 mins of driving, it will overheat and go into limp home mode. We can hear the coolant bubbling away under the bonnet! It also becomes noticeably colder in the car just before the engine overheats.

We've replaced the thermostat and had the cooling system pressure checked, where it was found to have slight pressure loss (but nothing bad).

The car has become untrustworthy for longish journeys, which is a pain as we really do enjoy the comfort and space the car provides.

It has been suggested that it might be a blown head gasket or cracked engine block - but will be a very expensive job to check/repair. (There is no emulsion in the coolant).

Any other ideas or thoughts on what this might be? Read more

Peter.N.

Could well be but you should be loosing water through the fillercap/overflow pipe.

George Bishop

After a service the garage said the drain plug may need Helicoiling, although confirming it does not leak oil. There is no sump damage from speed humps, so it can only be caused by overtightening or refitting cross-threaded. My argument is that in either case it is their responsibility, not mine. What do others think? Read more

SteveLee

Ah, someone else who used to read the best "car" magazine, whatever happened to LKJ Setwright?

One of the very few people to have the bottle to point out that (GTi aside) the Maestro was a fundamentally better car than the (Mk2) Golf. The basic chassis setup, chassis stiffness, damping and spring rates were vastly superior. But then knowing what you are actually talking about isn't fashionable.

japdriver

Hello all,

I have 4 young children and have been looking at the VW transporter combi van as a leisure vehicle. No one seems to make a 6+ seater people carrier that also has enough luggage space for a two week camping trip etc. Its all seats and no space!... Read more

Avant

I think the Hyundai i800 is an 8-seater and thus worth a look.