June 2008
I've been contemplating how frequently folk on this forum complain that they have been advised by a dealer or at MOT to have brake discs replaced due to wear, pitting, corrosion etc.
Now, the integrity of these simple components is essential in ensuring that your vehicle stops rapidly and efficiently when this is called for. Much more important, really, than how fast it accelerates or moves in the first place.
Brake discs are fairly simple cast metal components that are relatively cheap to buy and easy and cheap to replace (compare, say, with the price of a tank of fuel).
Skimming discs should be confined to the history of motoring.
I don't think this is an area where risks should be taken or cost skimped on. If the discs are below par, get them replaced and, of course, the pads at the same time.
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Hi, please could you tell how to knock out the service light on a Clio 2002 model? Read more
i thought the SERV light meant its needs a service too (especially because mines been on and its due one). Mine was on and then went off havent seen it in a week but its going in next week for MOT ans a service too so i'll have it checked out then.
A colleague has just ordered his new SEAT Leon in White. He has been offered GARDEX?? which is like a paint work protection for £200 and is guarnteed for 8 years. Is this worth it? Read more
Read the samll print on the guarantee usually only when you use their washing fluids and very few people will keep a car for eight years.
It won't add to it's resale value one bit and there is a good chance that it damage the car as the application is often rushed because after all "you want the car out the door"
The product cost by the way is about £35 plus vat and soon as you wash it with any reputable brand of washing fluid it will last about 3-4 months based on a weeky wash cycle. The reason being that the washing fluids break down the coating.
I took my car in to the vauxhall dealer as it was intermittently cutting out after startup. If I started it and revvved it then it would be fine.
The garage said they could not get it to stall and there were no error codes on the ECU. They then proceeded to upgrade the ECU software from v5 to v6.
I went to the garage to pick it up. It started fine. As I had to fit the child car seat the engine idled for a while before I drove. I got to the exit of the garage and waited to join the main road, during this time it stalled.
I ran back in and they came out with the ECU reader - no error codes.
They are stumped but suspect the throttle body possibly a dry joint. £300 for the part, after that it must be the ECU they say. They offered to dry and get a 'donor' throttle body to try it out but that would take a few days.
I tried to drive away again but as it stalled immediately I left the car at the garage and walked home. So the problem is now worse but at least 'recreatable'.
"The garage is clutching at straws" says my neighbour who maintains his own cars and recommended I post a forum entry here. He also said if the ECU is a problem there are companies who can check them for a fee (any recommendations?).
A mechanic I called reckoned it would be cheaper to source a throttle body over the internet (who is a reliable supplier?) and he could fit it for me.
What should my next step be? I've called the garage and told them not to do any work until further notice.
Thanks in advance for any tips.
Cheers
duplicate info in subject header removed, as this is displayed when you make your choice from the drop down boxes & compulsory year/engine boxes Read more
TB
I'll keep learning.....
Where can i locate the TDC sensor on a 51 plate Clio (1.2 engine) Read more
D4F-712 is one of the four listed and is very plausible; get a set of genuine plugs from the dealer and see if that helps your two problems.
Henly's Corner on the North Circular in London was mentioned in another thread.
The garage - BL - has long since gone, but the name has stuck.
Made me think of other junctions and how they got their names.
How about the Target roundabout on the A40 at Greenford, Middlesex?
Now a graded junction, it was named after a rough old pub which used to stand on the roundabout.
Then there's Staple's Corner at the bottom of the M1 - named after Staples bed factory which used to stand there.
I'm sure there are many others... Read more
Often hear on traffic reports of the 'Air balloon roundabout' .What's that all about?
It's a pub adjacent to the roundabout - nice place to eat actually.
Have recently noticed that the mileometer has stopped working, (stuck on same figure) and the trip counter does not show at all any ideas
slt Read more
That's quite likely; but, with a Renault, it's always best to check....
hi, ive got a problem starting my clio 1.2 RN 1998. i was driving it last week when it just died and coasted to a hault. tried to bump while being towed on the way home with no luck.
i asked on another forums and have been doin some checks but now dont know what to do.
i checked the fuel, pump seems fine and there is petrol right up to the injector unit. checked the spark plugs and they seem to be sparking fine, although they are bone dry. so i'm assuming the problems with the injectors.
i checked the voltages at the connector to the injectors, one wire out of the 3 (right most yellow wire) reads around 8-9v when i turn the key.
anyone have any idea what my problem could be? ive heard the CTS and crankshaft sensor can cause problems, with stuttering when started, but my car just wont start!
cheers
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anyone know if the head, including valves are the same between a 96 and 98 clio? might be able to get a reconditioned one from a 96 clio.
I have a T reg Ford Focus 2.0 ghia and having only recently bought the car, I am not too familiar with this particular problem.ABS & Traction warning lights staying lit when driving although when I preasure washed the front brake caliper (just through the gaps In the alloys" they went off and the abs kicked In, but not for long, they came back on again! Is there some way of accessing the sensor for cleaning or replacement ? were exactly are these things? I can see the wire going into the wheel hub on the front, cant see no wire on the rear, in fact I replaced the rear pads and couldnt see any sighn of a sensor on there? Help Please :) Read more
Driving home from work on Wednesday night and approximately 1/2 way between the office and the motorway, the lights went off and have remained off ever since, with the ABS and traction control now working normally again. Took it in for the diagnostic test on Friday which revealed no fault codes.
Weird how it suddenly seemed to fix itself. The garage said put it down to the ever changing weather and the fact that I'm doing 500 miles a week.
Fingers crossed.
Martin
I have been asked to take my car to the dealer for modification/replacement of the "EGR oil cooler" (Their terminology). All 2.0Tdis of a certain batch have been recalled as this part "wears out too quickly"
Has anyone heard of this and what are the causes/effects.
Thanks
John. Read more
Hello Roly.
Sorry for the delay but I have been away. Yes it is a BRE code.
John.
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Further to my post of 13 June 2008 I'm afraid I do not understand this. Sometimes the pads do wear slightly unevenly but the disc will be squeezed just as hard even if one pad is brand new and the other is down to 1mm. (don't let it go to the metal, I have just embarrassingly discovered that iron filings are very difficult to clean off alloy wheels!)...