June 2008

geran

Hi, anyone own a X-Type 2.0lt diesel, wanting to know there MPG good or bad?

Thanks

Geran Read more

injection doc

I had owned a 2.0d & a 2.2d

2.0 averaged between 43 & 53 mpg depending on journeys...

stairman

Changed the plugs March 08, when the plug lead was removed to gain access to spark plug I found water around base of the plug, I used a sponge to remove before changing the plug. The other 3 were the same. Have just changed the leads because car suffering from hesitancy when cold, there was a small amount of water around the plugs.
Has anybody else found this - any ideas. Read more

stairman

Found it, leaking core plugs. Stripped out cleaned, re-sealed sorted - many thanks all.

Bilboman

Much as I love technology and gadgets, I have been to Hell and back with a hired Passat (not my choice) this past week. The electronic handbrake and "Auto Hold" has aged me ten years and I am a gibbering wreck. I never, never want to own or drive a car with an electronic parking brake ever again.
Despite steady, gentle driving for the first few miles, I managed to stall the engine three times, once while exiting a multi-storey. Sudden loss of power assistance led to a larger than intended turning circle and a light scrape against the side wall. Re-starting with that daft pseudo key was excruciating - it would have been so easy to give it a twist rather than WINDOWS - style press-to-start-press-to-stop action.
I did read the instruction manual for a good ten minutes (pull tab to release manual from hidden compartment inside glovebox - details of hidden location of instruction manual are... in the instruction manual; gaahhh!!!) in the Europcar office before setting off, but I felt like a toddler doing an intensive course in Linux. The Auto Hold (stops car rolling back or forward when stopped) is actually brilliant but has to be switched on every time on startup, and the yellow warning light is down by the gear lever (doh!) So when I wanted it to be on it wasn't and vice versa. Parking on the hill where I live in reverse, with or without Auto Hell) proved next to impossible so I parked a mile away from home on a flat stretch.
All of this has actually killed my 25 year long love of driving, at least till I get my own car back. Read more

unthrottled

There were too many warranty claims on DMFs. You'll notice that a lot of newer diesels are less resiliant to stalling than older ones. That is not unintentional.

You can of course incorporate a conventional handbrake on to a brake disc but it isn't as easy as connecting a simple cable to a drum. There was never a good reason to put discs on the rear axle-consumers brought that upon themselves through vanity and misunderstanding....

3615075

hi i have a renault trafic van 02 plate i`m trying to find the fuse box in it i`v looked were the glove box is its no wear to be seen i need to change a fuse for the radio

{subject header amended to give brief details of question being asked} Read more

scrapmetal

Open the passenger door, it is located on the side of the dashboard.

Red Baron

The time has come to change my spark plugs as per Manufacturers schedule. It really applies to any modern vehicle, but in my case an Alfa 147 1.6 TS has 8 plugs costing about £60 in total.

If the engine sounds good and revs just fine, the emission figures are okay, the cars performance appears acceptable and not noticeably deteriorating, the exhaust plume is clear, the mpg figures are good, then why change the plugs.

Surely, there would be some sort of evidence that would indicate deteriorating spark plugs.

After all, we don't change many other wearing components on a car just because they might have worn too far, e.g, suspension components, steering wheel stalks, hinges, fans etc. With these we wait until they show evidence of failing. Read more

yorkiebar

And just rechecked my info on the 2 sets of plugs.

1 is listed as irridium, 1 set is listed as platinum.

1 set is std life (replace at set interval) and 1 set is extended life, replace at extended life interval. Sorry but no mileage provided for the remaining info.

Borodin

Can anyone advise me regarding whether or not Ford have finally cured the leaking roof problems on the Focus CC with the new model. I am about to take receipt of a brand new CC3 next week and keep reading disturbing reports that Ford have still not found a solution. I desperately need some reassurance as I'm afraid all the excitement of an impending new car has been tinged with the apprehension of leaks. Help.... Read more

ijws15

Don't believe it - the EOS does not hold its value - there are too many around. Golf cabrios were rare the EOS is not.

I have the scars, we sold one!

mattbod

I have noticed that there are quite a few of these being made now and I like their characerful nature. Can any of you with technical expertise tell me if they have any inherent advantages or is it solely a cost saving measure in lopping of a cylinder? Read more

DirtyDieselDogg

Ok

Instead I shall express it thus:...

mikej

Hi folks - I've got a 1999 (Mk1) 1.8i Focus with 80k miles on the clock.

Car wouldn't start the other day - could hear the fuel system pressurise with a whine, but only a 'click' when the starter motor should have turned over.

The central locking was sounding a big sluggish, so I checked the battery (original OEM) and the indicator was showing green, but the battery is only giving out 10.1V.

I tried the car again and this time the starter motor turned the engine over and it eventually started.

I turned the engine off, waited a short while, then tried turning it on again. This time, the dials did a full sweep and I could hear a repeated clicking sound - the dials then seemed to go berzerk !

I then fully charged the battery (out of the car), replaced it and the car started first time. The dials did the full sweep and an audible chime could also be heard.

I tried it a few more times after that and the response has been mixed.

Sometimes the car will start first time, sometimes it'll take a few goes and the starter motor sounds sluggish. Sometimes the dials do a full sweep and other times not. Sometimes they will sweep back and forth with a frantic clicking sound.

The car sat on the drive all day and when I got back, I checked the voltage and it was 10.6V. Can half a dozen failed starts take the voltage from 12.6 down to 10.6V that quickly, or does that point towards a battery problem ?

As a final experiment last night, I fully charged the battery - it reduced from 13.6V to 12.6V fairly quickly but then held it's charge at 12.6V all night.

I should add that the car has never ever failed to start first time up to this point, so I'm surprised that I've had no warning signs up until now.

At 80k miles on the original battery, I'm obviously overdue a replacement so I'm happy to replace it as a first attempt to sort this out as it's likely I'll need to replace it fairly soon anyway, but it's odd that a fully charged battery is still causing problems - I don't really know enough about car batteries and how they behave, but I wonder whether a new battery will behave any differently ?

I've also been told to check the earthing points (battery, starter motor and engine block to body - are there any more ?)

All comments appreciated - thanks.
Read more

henry k

>>Screwloose
>>All the late [post c.'98] Motorcraft batteries are lead-calcium.
>>
Spot on. A thank you for a great reminder to the many Ford owners (I am a 98 Mondeo owner).

I stumbled on the information a while back and certainly was surprised.

To back you up, the info I found was at

www.boschautoparts.co.uk/pcBatt12.asp?c=2&d=1

Ford state Silver only
In a recent Technical Service Bulletin from Ford (who have been using Calcium Silver since 1997 as OE), they have stated that due to the Smart Changing System (SCS) fitted to its vehicles ONLY Calcium Silver batteries can be used.

Fitting anything other than Calcium Silver could result in a severely shortened service life, increased warranty claims and could even cause explosions.

The following Ford models must ONLY be fitted with Calcium Silver batteries as stipulated by Ford Motor Company Ltd.

( excuse the format )

Model
From

Mondeo
June '98

Cougar
June '98

Puma
January '99

Transit
January '99

Escort
January '99

Fiesta
January '99

Ka
January '99

Foc
January '99

Fusion
September '02

The battery types fitted to these vehicles are:

Part No.
Short Code

543023039
4P

550056054
5B

560077060
6H

571013068
7E


davy

My sister owns a megan scenic, and about 5 months ago it was hard to start when cold so glow plugs were tested and 3 out of four were faulty. A new set were fitted and the car was fine for a month, then it started to mis behave and was hard to start when it was cold or sat for about 6 hours, the glow plugs tested fine, the relay and power supply was fine. The car turns over as if there is no fuel and then it fires on one cylinder and then 2 until it eventually starts, i have taken out the fuel filter and it made no difference, i checked the fuel lines for air bubbles and there is none pressent.Once the car starts after churning it if u switch it off and start it again it fires into life right away no problem.the car starts fine when it is warm or after it has been started for the first time.
It has all the evidence of fuel running back but i can find no leaks, is it possible for the fly by wire pump to be leaking internal or drawing air through the seal on the input shaft, or could the starter be drawing too much current when the engine is cold so that the electronic pump cant supply enough fuel.
If anyone can give me any suggestions or have had similer faults ur help would be much appreciated
ps car has been on the computer and no faults were logged , also the egr valve has been checked

many thanks
davy Read more

mrsthelens

ive had a diagnostics on my car and its come back with, glow plug relay/ circuit, any idea where the glow plug relay is on a 2003 scenic, gonna take the cheapest option before i have to get someone wade through the wires to find the fault

mustangman

The handbrake on my Focus now has rather too much free travel & needs adjusting.

I know that the brake shoes are adjusted correctly since I've examined them & they are in any case self-adjusting.
Assuming that there is some adjustment available, is this from under the car, or must I dismantle the box-cum armrest thing between the seat to find the adjuster / compensator.

Thanks in advance. (I guess I'm avoiding crawling under the car to find out.)

Btw, I've mentioned before, that Focii with rear drums seem to have poor brakes, and an equally poor handbrake. Part of the reason that it needs adjusting is that you have to heave on it for it to be effective. Read more

mustangman

FC

Assuming that your Focus has the same rear drums as mine, there is nothing holding the drums on. You simply remove the wheel and the drum should slide right off.
You may have to wriggle it to clear the wear ridge, but it should come off.

Be carefull that the auto adjust device is assembled the correct way if you strip things down.

I found that at 28k miles there was very little wear. It's just that the linings are IMO far too hard, and give the car poor brake bite and a lousey handbrake.

There is an inspection hole that Ford have positioned at the front of the backplate that is impossible to see through unless your head is the size of a cat. Perhaps you could see through it with a small mirror.