August 2014
The other day someone backed into the side or my car while I was leaving a car park. We agreed to sort it out privately so I got some quotes and they were happy with the lowest.
They want me to get the work done, they'll take a look and pay for it.... Read more
I've asked HJ about this but welcome allcomers.
I have owned C Class 220CDI's for 10 years and been happy with performance,mpg,engineering. But the seats aren't great. I'm 6ft 3in,age 61,med build,and after a drive of 2 hours I get out of car as stiff as a board. Yes! may be me,but my Y reg Ren Kangoo van worth nowt is more comfortable than my £20 k Merc!!!... Read more
The Citroen C5 launch advertisement back in 2008, was titled "Unmistakably German", and effectively said that we French have had to build this car like the Germans have for 40 years, otherwise no-one will buy Citroens anymore.
My interest - I have one....
For the past few weeks on tick over and up to around 1500rpm the engine sounded very lumpy. Started fine and above 1500rpm absolutely no loss of power or smoke. I drove it in this condition to a local garage for an MOT and for the engine issue to be looked into. An hour after dropping it off I had a call to say my van wouldn't start when they tried to drive it into the repair bay and on taking off the cam belt cover found the timing belt to be very slack. They said at this point there could be major engine damage but wouldn't know for sure until a new timing belt kit had been fitted. On fitting the new belt I was told that the bolt holding the tensioner to the engine had been 'bodged' previously which led to the tension being released from the belt. They had managed to drill out the 'dodgy' bolt and replaced with correct fitting along with new tensioner, belt and water pump.
On initial firing of the engine there was a constant puffing of white smoke through the whole of the rev range. This increased to major loss of power, tons of white smoke and various warning lights illuminating by the time I had driven it the half a mile home. Since this time I haven't attempted to start it again.
The garage that did this 'repair' did offer to repair the head etc but I thought it better to take it to an engine specialist as obviously I'm a little miffed that the van drove OK when I dropped it off but absolutely trashed when I collected it. Don't get me wrong, the tensioner bolt may have given up just as they started the engine but they don't look like a garage that specialises in such repairs.
The van is generally in great condition for a 2004 reg with 49K miles on the clock, regularly serviced and probably worth £1800 prior to the engine failure. I've been quoted the following:
£150 - Cost to investigate and if the engine is completely shot bolt back together and I collect.
£745 - Cost for full repair if only 'normal' damage (cylinder head, valves, seals, etc) has occurred.
£? - Cost on top of £745 if the injectors are also found to be damaged.
£50 - Transport cost accross London (20miles)
No VAT charged.
Any opinions on whether it's worth repairing, does the quote sound reasonable or should I just scrap? Many thanks for reading to the end!
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Many thanks for the replies. Guess I'm hoping against hope that the damage isn't that catastrophic and I'll be back on the road for under £1000. Maybe worth £150 punt even if it does just tell me how much damage was done. A new belt, tensioner & water pump was fitted by the garage. I just find it quite unbelievable I'd driven it for a few weeks with the slight issue at tickover & when the garage tries to start it it all goes pear shape. Any opinions if this is likely or the garage are covering something up? Approx cost of supply & fit new engine?
I was looking to buy a Mitsubishi Lancer 1.5 petrol sportback 2009/2010. I have seen three all in black (51K, 25K and 39K) around £4400- £5400. However, the condition of the paintwork was poor - lots of sratches and chipped paint. There is a grey one 2011, 1.5 petrol, with 20,000 miles on the clock at a dealer for £6995. I was planning to go and have a look at it as it should be in better condition than the others. I like the car, it drives well and I find it comfortable.
However, having read the reviews of the car in previous topics here in the forum, and the fact that it is no longer imported and was only on the market for three years (?) - so parts could be problem in five years time - I am now wondering whether I look for something like the first generation Mazda 3 1.6 petrol (2008 or 2009). I have also had a look at a 2010 1.6 petrol Suzuki SX4, which I tested but found I needed to get used to the higher driving position. Is the quality of the 2010 SX4 similar to the 2010 Lancer and would you say the 2008/9 Mazda 3 is higher in quality and reliability than the other two? Read more
Engineer Andy.
Thank you for your reply....
Have seen a few asking for advice about cars.
Do as the above = number 1. Read more
I don't use google, only as a very last resort.
However i do exactly as ORB, search the vehicle and likely trigger words to go with it depending on my enquiry, as said this site comes up regularly, but you often end up in make/model specific forums right in the middle of on the right subject threads....
mazda 6 sport 2008 2000cc diesel.
Bought the car to save money on fuel and traded in a Civic type r 2007 which I had no probs with. Bought it mainly on looks and based on road tests and crucially for more MPG yes what a fool I am!!!!! Should have known better as I never trusted the RX8 that I had which was reliable but I simply never trusted it.... Read more
What you describe is a typical "runaway engine" situation where the engine is running on oil / oil mist and not on the diesel fuel. Usual causes are a worn turbo, oil seals, pistons / rings and / or cylinder bores.
Once a diesel engine starts ingesting it's own oil from whatever source, it will run flat out even if the ignition is switched off as it is now self perpetuating, where the faster it revs, the more oil / mist it takes in and the engine will continue to rev out at maximum ( or higher ) revs. The cycle can only be stopped by either stalling the engine by applying the brakes hard at standstill and releasing the clutch in top gear in a manual car ( usually this destroys the clutch / gearbox in extreme cases ), blocking off the air intake so oxygen to ignite the "fuel" is cut off, or using a CO2 fire extinguisher in the air intake ( if it's an automatic, or a manual even )....
Can anyone please help me with a radio code for the above car (radio model HU-605) as I am finding it really difficult to get one and the main dealer near to me is no help at all!! Thanks. Read more
Not on this forum,but you may get it here;www.radio-code.co.uk/volvo-radio-codes.html
took my battery off.now i need code.were will i find code for it.m099849.
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You will find a selection of numbers here;www.pumapeople.com/decode.php
I recently asked the forum about my A6 smoking if revved. I have stripped the egr valve and all surrounding pipes, the egr valve did not have a lot of carbon in it but ther was quite a lot of engine oil leaking around the valve and inside the pipes had a deposit of oil. it seemed to be leaking out of the egr valve all around the area was quite a build up. there are lot of small pipes in this area as well so I cannot find whrer tyhe oil is coming from. The air filter is clear of any oil. Any ideas. Read more
Thanks for the reply, I do not have to top up oil from one oil change to the next. the oil seems to escape from two small holes under the egr large diaphragm then can drip onto exhaust, but does not give a problem.
Dear Admin,
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The truth about dealers is just as in life - there are good ones & bad ones. It's true that on the whole the far eastern dealers do try harder "mostly" if you have a young vehicle - if your vehicle is older than 7 or 8 years however they really are not interested, and that also does not excuse the way they charge for their spares often 200% more than they are worth!
I have often found huge differences between pricing & service between UK & USA recently I bought an air flow sensor for my 2003 Civic Hybrid from the USA on the net, it cost me @ £100INCLUDING SHIPPING. Honda's price is £281 !!!!!!...


Similar thing when SWMBO reversed into an older chap in a car park, he got a couple of quotes that we thought fair, she sent him a cheque, he sent her a lovely thankyou note...if he spent the money on women wine and song so what.
I agree the money should be forthcoming once a reasonable quote has been agreed, any reluctance there probably tells you all you need to know.