August 2014
I am having some problems with the gearbox/linkage on my Polo 6n2 1.4 8v. I first noticed the problem 2 days ago when I was having trouble finding first gear, it was just going into 3rd and I physically could not find first. I was also finding that when in reverse (as you push the gearstick downwards to get into reverse) that the gearstick would get almost stuck, and would have to wiggle it to get it back out.
When driving the car today the problem with 1st gear persisted, but wasn't consistant (75% of the time it would go in), however when I got the car home I tested the gears just by putting it into each gear with the car off and the clutch up, and it simply would not go into any gear at all. The gear stick is free to move as far forward and back as you want, and no gears are selected. Reverse can still be found sometimes, but other than that the car is now undriveable. ... Read more
Hello thank you for the web page for the timing but tryed this and still no compression,replaced crank sensor,crank outer sensor ring (magnetic track) all valves are okay and been resitted,heads gone back on yet still no compression but if the cam is 1 tooth out it as compression but wont turn over. any idears cheers
Hi All
My VW Sharan dosen't come with a spare or a space saver "get me home" wheel.... Read more
I bought a second-hand spare wheel (in my case a space-saver for a Ford Focus - my Titanium model was fitted with a full-size spare which took up a huge amount of room) from e-Bay pretty cheaply.
Though I can count the number of times I have needed a spare wheel on one hand - in many years and hundreds of thousands of miles - , I would not be without one, but a full-size one seems over the top.
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Here's the method I used to replace the strut ball joint, anti-roll bar drop links and bushes. Having only recently acquired a 2009 Peugeot 308 2ltr HDI 136bhp, I was concerned at the front end suspension knocks and clunks. I’ve replaced the ns/os “lower wishbone” ball joint, anti-roll bar drop links and anti-roll bar bushes. I’d previously jacked the car up and checked for play but detected nothing. Having replaced the ball joints, drop links and anti-roll bar bushes the noise has significantly reduced. However, I anticipate replacing the top mounts at some point!... Read more
I have just taken ownership of my third Yeti. My previous Yeti ownership comprised a 2009 1.2 TSI SE, followed by a 2012 Urban TDI.
I ran the TSi for 10K miles / 1 year and found it just a little bit underpowered. It was fine around town, but struggled when fully loaded with either passengers or luggage.... Read more
MY forum username should be "iwantedayeti", but requiring more bootroom for a wheelchair, bought a DSG Octiva, in Sept 2010.
Turned 5 with just over 80,000 on, absolutly no faults over these 5 years, cept for minor bits of trim falling off....
Can you help me please. Screen indicating "Soot filter full". I have been told to run engine hot, is this correct. Read more
Thank you to all of you for your comments and suggestions.I took the car for a 20 mile drive 70MPH all the time. The soot filter indication did not come on again and has not so far been 4 days so far. I will keep you all updated.
I have a 2005 Citroen Xsara Picasso which has a faulty digital display. Some of the segments have stopped working. Not a bulb issue as this has been checked.
I'm now looking for a replacement, but finding one with a matching part number is proving difficult. I've been in touch with breakers yards and they have units available suitable for my car but are unsure about part numbers.
Does it matter if the part numbers match, or that the unit comes from the same model as mine, a 1.6 HDi, or does it only matter than I get a unit with the correct connectors on the back? Mine is a single connector, I believe it was two connectors on earlier models. I am aware that the unit needs to have lower mileage than my car to avoid it resetting to a higher mileage on the replacement unit.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. Read more
Is that right? I had no idea that was the case. Surely needing to know what speed you are doing would be a safety issue though? Don't get me wrong I can tell the speed but just seems weird it wouldn't fail an mot. Good to know though, thanks.
Can anyone tell me if you need to change the front and back cam belts at 105000 miles Read more
The recommended timing belt change is 105k miles.(front of engine) .The aux belt that drives the fuel pump at the rear of engine is due a change at 150k miles.Probably best to replace both at the same time.
My wifes car ( above), has just been serviced at a main Skoda agent. Upon checking the invoice, she has been charged for 9ltrs of oil costing £52.56 + vat, surely they have ripped her off?. What should be the ammount used to do an oil and filter change?.
She also asked if she could have a variable service (2yrs), owing to the low mileage she does. She was told that this wasn't possible on a Fabia, although i could have one on my Octavia if req'd!... Read more
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The quantity charged for, 9ltrs, was for the oil only and not any labour charges, as these were charged sepaerately in the invoice, so can only assume that it was a delliberate ploy to overcharge my wife, especially as she took the car in to the garage and again collected it herself. Sorry to be sexist, but can only come to that conclussion. ...
Hi there, i'm have a Toyota Haice with brake problems.
I have renewed:... Read more
this problem has been resolved!
Thanks
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I'd start by looking at the gear linkage for any problem. If as you say gears cant be selected with the engine off, that really rules out it being a clutch problem.
If ou can get a Haynes manual they usually give you a set up routine for rods or cables. There's always a chance in this case that a pivot or clevis has seized on the linkage, have a look, use some lubricant spray on it and see if anything suddenly becomes free.