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Without any information I think it will be difficult to help assist you. The more info, the easier it is to help.
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If you have fitted it yourself you have either timed the cams up incorrectly or disturbed a sensor. Carefully check everything including the cam timing and the order you have fitted the plug leads.
If a garage fitted it the problem is theirs to sort.
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Would a diesel have plug leads????
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If you have got the camshaft out of sync there's a chance you may have bent the valve stems when you tried to start it.
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It's easy to tell if the engine you are working on is a diesel or a petrol.
Run your fingers along the the plug leads, if they feel hard and are made of metal it's a diesel.
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The clue may be in the thread title: ford fiesta 1.4 tdci
I know of no petrol model with a "D" in it's designation.
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Hyundai Veloster GDi - petrol
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Does it turn over easily? Is there fuel getting through the filter? Has the crankshaft sensor next to the crankshaft pulley been knocked as the pulley was taken off and replaced?
If there's nothing obvious, then it's best to do the job all over again and look for what's been done wrong as it's all taken apart again.
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Hi thanks for your reply,it all started when my fan belt split and bits came off and got behind cam cover which then the car just stopped dead and wouldn't start,the cam belt didn't break but it did jump 4teeth. It had no compression when new belt was fitted so it was stripped down and head was taken off. Could not see any bent valves a ruler was put across and they all seem the same,but valves was not took out of head. It was put back together new belts new crank sencer which is 3pin and 'because fan belt damaged old one'. Timing set but still will not start and showing low compression. Put it on a diagnostic and it shows no fault,its always started first time even when not used for a while, thanks once again
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Sounds like you got some bent valves if compression is low.they need to be removed from the head to be checked accurately.
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It was put back together new belts new crank sencer which is 3pin and 'because fan belt damaged old one'.
If the crank sensor was damaged by the broken belt the plug/wiring could also have been damaged. Worth getting the wiring checked.
4 teeth is quite a timing error, could well have bent valves but in my personal experience a car with bent valves will still start (eventually) but run poorly. If its making no attempt look elsewhere before stripping engine again.
Edited by skidpan on 29/08/2014 at 18:00
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The crank sensor and its plug and wiring nearly always cops for it when the auxiliary belt breaks. I know it's too late now, but renewing the auxiliary belt if it's showing any signs of cracking or fraying is as important as getting the cam belt changed at the recommended intervals. For the cam belt to have jumped its teeth, that could have damaged a valve. The valve stems on this engine, a diesel mechanic tells me, are very thin and easily get bent.
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Hi I'd just like to say thank you all. The head as been taken off and valves taken out,there all ok,thank god.don't think its anything to do with crank sencer as it would of shown on diagnostic. Nothing is coming up. I can only think it could be timing cause when crank is put to a 120 degree out it had compression but will not fire. Does any one know the sequel to setting the timing? Thanks once again for everyones help, ;-)
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Anny good?
workshop-manuals.com/ford/fiesta_2002.25_11.2001/m.../
A selection of bolts or drill bits should substitute for most of the 'special tools' mentioned.
TDC can always be double-checked with a screwdriver down the glowplug hole of no.1 cylinder. Assuming its not set on BDC!
I have had a bad experience of non-genuine sensors. If the one you bought is faulty it won't come up as a fault code because the ECU won't even know the engine is turning!
Edited by mfarrow on 29/08/2014 at 21:02
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Thank you for giving me the web site for timing,valves are ok,head back on,new crank sencer. Set timing up but no compression,bottom pully ring seems as if its spun and is about 10mil out. Is there anyway of resetting or moving the bottom pully ring,or do I have to replace with new? Cheers ;-)
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According to my local mechanic, Oily Mick down Kay Brow, the crankshaft pulley is on a key-way or spline so that it can be removed and replaced without upsetting the timing. He found this out when he had to replace my crankshaft pulley which broke at about 130,000 miles. The engines on some cars are so badly engineered that a special tool is required to hold the timing whilst the crankshaft pulley is changed, but not on this engine. Remember that these pulleys are a 'harmonic damper pulley' with an inner and outer part bonded with rubber. The rubber can break at high mileage and it could be that yours jammed on the broken belt and has pulled through the rubber, in which case you need a new pulley, and they're expensive. But if it's still holding together, then that isn't the problem which is preventing the engine from running. Indeed, the engine will run with a broken pulley; it just won't turn the auxiliary belt at full speed so that the steering is heavy and the the alternator won't charge. I drove home from Southport with the broken pulley. It was just about pulling the belt around so that the power steering still worked, but the headlamps got dimmer by the mile, and the clanking from the broken pulley was horrendous.
Edited by MrEckerslikefromRamsbottom on 03/09/2014 at 17:48
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HELP... Hi,really need some advice,after taken head off removed valves (not bent) resitted the valves and the head back on,its also had new crank sensor, new crankshaft outer sensor ring also called magnetic track,and still when timing is set up to the diagram on the above off the web page theres still no compression. if the cam pully is 1 tooth out then theres compression,but still wont fire. Anyone got any idears!!!!
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Hello thank you for the web page for the timing but tryed this and still no compression,replaced crank sensor,crank outer sensor ring (magnetic track) all valves are okay and been resitted,heads gone back on yet still no compression but if the cam is 1 tooth out it as compression but wont turn over. any idears cheers
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Hi I'd just like to say thank you all. The head as been taken off and valves taken out,there all ok,thank god.don't think its anything to do with crank sencer as it would of shown on diagnostic. Nothing is coming up. I can only think it could be timing cause when crank is put to a 120 degree out it had compression but will not fire. Does any one know the sequel to setting the timing? Thanks once again for everyones help, ;-)
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