August 2011
Hi
My 2004 Audi A6 (C6) 3.0 TDi Quattro has started to on occasion blow very hot air through the drivers side dash vent and the centre rear vent. The air is so hot that the metal around the vents becomes too hot to touch. It happened first 2 years ago and is now happening about twice a week.... Read more
Hi,
Any advice appreciated. I have a Mk IV 10 reg 2.0 TDCI.... Read more
Hi
Anyone thats interested we can remove the DPF and remap the Mondeo for £450. No more dpf problems. Just more power and better fuel economy....
My mother in law purchased a 1.7 diesel astra brand new in January 2011. The DPF warning light came on last week and she followed the instructions in the manual to give it a run. This did not improve matters and a further warning light came on to inform her to contact a dealer. She duly did this and was told the car required a service and oil change due to her having not driven enough miles. It has over 6000 miles on the clock and was not actually driven at all for a month due to the bad weather. This means that it has averaged around 1000 miles a month with regular journeys (around once a week) on the motorway of approx 30 miles, and then back again. Is this usual and should the salesman not have checked her annual milage before selling her a diesel if more miles are required? Read more
Ha, I recon she could outbreak Button. Thanks for the replies. It would appear that regardless of how many long runs it gets the short journeys (less than 10 miles) kill it. The car was being sold on a good offer (obviously being pushed by Vauxhall) by a large national dealership beginning with Evan and ending with shaw. It was sold on the basis of good economy and low tax, bummer that 2 services a year blow the savings away. Missold if you ask me as no mention of the length of journeys required to avoid this.
I just took a 2003 Mondeo tdci, 130bhp model in p/ex. It came as a non runner (kind of) with 2 sets of injectors and 2 HP fuel pumps. the car would tow off and run fairly smooth at low revs, anything over 2500 rpm and it would cut out and need towing / bumping again. Immediate thoughts are fueling issues. I sent both pumps and all injectors to a well respected bosch and delphi diesel specialist. They found both pumps to be good, all eight injectors to be shot. They did further testing and cleaning and managed to get me a good useable set of four out of them. Ive reassembled everything and still the car wont start on the key. It cranks and tries to fire but its as if there isnt enough fuel going in. Give it a quick 1 second squirt of easy start and it will fire up, sometimes taking a few seconds to pick up to normal idle speed. It then seems fine after that, havent dared take it further than my street though. Ive watched the live data with my Ethos machine, everything looks normal though Im a little unsure about the fuel pressure when cranking. At best it hits 250 ish bar. I'm not 100% what it should be but I expected over 300? Read more
Always comes up with usual metering unit fault and presssure in rail above/below desired levels. Just got a load of clear tubing so will get it put in place of the hard black pipes in fuel system tomorrow so I can see if theres any air / debris passing through to rule that out. Wont start at all now and I stupidly left it outside so getting back in a tight right angle entry garage on a hill will be fund!!
After filling up with fuel at Sainsburys my van took longer to start after stopped
The problem continued to get worse and was a problem starting the next 3 times and then wil not start at all... Read more
For this particular problem i would be inclined to start by checking fuel rail pressure sensor theres a small green o ring that goes on these (common fault) when they go faulty you lose rail pressure. As far as i can remember you can get these at the dealers.Hth Regards Mickeybo
Hi all,
I am hoping for some advice; I am currently in the South Of France with the family and a humming has developed with the rear near side wheel. It varies with speed and stops all together when turning courners at speed and so throwing the weight off the wheel... Read more
I would visit www.freel2.com
sadly you will find much the same story of FR2's mostly dealer issue;s
Hi everyone!
Going to change my power steering fluid using the "turkey baster" method as it looks really dirty!
My local motor factors sold me some Carlube ATF-Q Auto Transmission Fluid Dexron 2 after asking me what colour was in my car. I think it's red in colour when new.
The Haynes manual states it needs Ford Spec WSA M2C 195A fluid, can I safely use the Carlube stuff?
Many thanks in advance
Read more
Thanks for your replies!
TeeCee, went to our local motor factors & changed it to the one you said. On the back it states the spec: WSP M2C 195A, the Ford spec states: WSA M2C 195A.
Is there any major difference, noting the Carlube is WSP & not Fords WSA?
Peter, will prob do it the way you have suggested, making sure the reservoir does not run out & not keeping it on full lock for too long. Just don't want any airlocks. Also Peter, the steering fluid is not leaking, just very dirty. Being an avid home mechanic I wanted to change it.
Thanks again.
Hi...I've got a problem, (well obviously)
I have a Ford Focus 1.8 TDCI 2006 (Lynx Engine), the "Engine Systems Fault" message has come up, frankly I'm too cheap to go to the Ford garage for them to tell me the code. I am in "limp home mode" so driving is a no go.
I am certain it is my EGR though, all the symptoms fit.
I removed the EGR cooling pipe and sure as shootin even it's full of carbon.
The problem is the egr is integrated into the inlet manifold...which didnt seem like a problem till I realised a sadist designed this engine. Apparently Hitler has returned and he is designing engines for Ford!!
I have removed the egr cooling pipe, the doofer from the top of the inlet manifold with the electrical attachment (forgot its name, it is secured by 4 torx screws), removed the easy accessed bolts from the back of the manifold. However the remaining bolts are blocked by the exhaust manifold...so do I need to remove it? How is that done as it is a royal pain in the kiester to remove too?
Am I missing a trick? The egr is a part that does need cleaned, so why make it this hard?
Someone suggested spraying carb cleaner into the main breather tube of the I.M. while the engine was turning over...I nearly died! Surely that wouldn't clean the egr out and wouldn't it over combust the engine? That can't be the way to do it, can it?
I can supply photos if needed.
Please help! Read more
Well, can confirm that the manifold does NOT need to come off, nor does anything else (other than the egr cooler).
...
Hi,
I'm looking to buy a Golf TDI but am looking for real world feedback on engine performance and reliability. The 1.9tdi 105bhp on paper looks pretty basic but how good is this cars acceleration for general overtaking and hill climbing etc? I do a mixture of urban and hilly rural driving so need something with a bit of poke. The 2.0 tdi looks far better on paper but seems to have a sportier setup and am looking for comfort rather than harsh suspension. Also, after looking at Audi 2.0 tdi's track record, there seems to be complaints about oil pump failures with this VAG engine, whereas the 1.9 105bhp seems pretty good.... Read more
Thanks for feedback all. I test drove a 1.9 105bhp Golf Mk5 a week ago and it seemed pretty good. A nice bit of torque and easy to drive. Enough for me anyway and I like the effortless pull that you get with a diesel compared to a petrol.
Hello, about a year ago, the front section of the exhaust pipe on my 1998 Ford Fiesta fell off. One garage quoted me £400 for repair as they said all three sections would need replacing.
As I had only bought ther car a few weeks before, I took it back to the garage I bought it from and they welded it back on.... Read more
Until recently I had a 1998 Fiesta with the 1.3 Endura-E petrol engine, I'm not sure if this is exactly the same model that you have. Even with the 1998 Endura-E, Ford fitted more than one kind of exhaust system.
My experience of exhaust repairs was:...
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Shortly after posting this question I found an extremely good post on another forum, complete with pictures and very detailed instructions.
Look at the post from rstoer on 15th April 2012 in the following thread
forums.audiworld.com/archive/index.php/t-2756309.h...l
I followed these instructions myself and now have a perfectly working heater again. The pistons in my pump valve had the same gunk on them visible in rstoer's post. I cleaned it off with T-Cut and silver polish. Since performing this procedure the hot air problem has never occurred again. That was over two months ago and I am very happy with the results. I really took care making sure the pistons were spotless, but even though I took my time the whole job was completed in less than 2 hours with absolutely no leakage or mess. It also saved me approx £450, which is the cost of a new pump valve and getting it professionally fitted.
Replacing the whole pump valve unit is very tricky and I did not want to tackle it myself. Removing the top of the pump valve unit and cleaning the pistons is incredibly simple and works a treat.
Great post rstoer!!!