February 2011
I have an ignition fault in the low tension circuit.
Does anyone know where the + & - LT leads from the coil go as I want to check these? I am not refering to the + & - LT leads that go to the ignition switch module.... Read more
You seem to think you can get the car for about £8/9k plus your part-ex. This is still a huge amount of money on a car that seems a bit of a punt, to me anyway.
When you see a car you really want it's easy to get carried away and logic goes out of the window. If you pay £8k, it will be worth £4k in 3 years time I would guess - but because it is an insurance write off that has been rejigged it may be worth a lot less and you may actually find that you can't give it away. A lot of people just will not touch a rejigged car - there will always be a question mark about it's structural integrity for most of us....
I just had my car serviced oil /oilfilter/ fuelfilter/air filter and cabin filter changed ..
The engine oil was changed along with the oil filter ...with my past records I had I saw ford service station charged me for 4.5 ltr of oil change .. 3 years in a row ...When I changed my oil the mechanic poured 4.5 ltr as he saw but was still not sufficent so he went on to add more untill he added a another 350ml more .. ... Read more
If the handbook says for example 4.5litres for an engine including the filter then thats what should be put in no more no less.The dipstick is just a guide as it can take many hours for all the all to drop into the sump and sometimes it never does.
Hi could anyone please help. I have just recently replaced an engine on my Fiat Doblo 2004 plate using an engine from a 2002 plate Doblo. The engine seems to try and tick over but it is failing to start. I have been told the fuel pump mite need resetting or decoding as the fuel pump came with the replaced engine and not its original. Can some please eloborate on this. Read more
Hi just to let you know ive finally got it started. It turns out I had to take out the old fuel pump and replace it with the one in the donor engine, which did the job.
I'm looking into getting a mk 1 Leon Cupra with the 1.8 20v, 180 bhp engine. Are there any downsides to this car? You can get them for under £2k. Overall, the car (and this particular engine) is rated quite highy overall. The main issue appears to be failing coil packs but since I'm buying a car with 100k miles can I assume they would have been fixed by now?
Other than that, and not having great fuel economy (30-35mpg) and highish insurance, which is offset by a low purchase price and good reliability plus I dont do high miles, would this car make a sensible buy? I currently have a focus 1.8 mk1 petrol which is brilliant but I fancy a change after a having a focus tdci previously. Read more
BTW it eats front tyres!
Hi, this is my first post here and wondering if anyone could help me. I am pretty dumb when it comes to cars.
I have a Peugeot 106 XL (petrol) 1996 which has been in my garage unused for about 3 weeks and had a flat battery. I put it on charge overnight and when I went to start it today, it will not start at all. The lights all work fine though which they weren't when the battery was flat.... Read more
The 2 cables are connected okay in the battery.
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My car has done 86K, it is nearly 7 years old.
Recently I had an annual service done. When I collected the car back the person told me that there was significant gap in the wheel alignment and he fixed that for me. A few days later I could start hearing a loud noise (not good at describing noises!), which was constant and grew louder the faster I drove. I took at back to the garage and the person said that the wheel bearings is the cause. He is charging me 46 quid for the parts called - Hub Kit, and 123 quid for labour for 2.5 hours! Lots of questions!... Read more
One suggestion is after finding the wheel bearings worn with some play the mechanic over tightened them causing them to fail.Just a sugestion but difficult to prove.
Hi All,
The wifes 52 reg 1.4TDCI (87,000 miles) i making a strange noise.
It is coming from the aux belt area, am i right in saying this runs the power steeering, fuel and water pump and the alternator?
It started last night (a small whoosh, whoosh noise) turned off the engine started again and it was gone and started again on the way to work - when i got to work i actually dropped the car off at the local garage, they left it running for an hour and checked it now and again, all they could find was a loose bolt for the airbox!!?? and said they cant see/hear anything dodgy. (have used them for all previous work on the car and they have been great)
so sod's law drove her home and it started again, it is intermittent, it is more of low rattle/clicking noise.
To help...
1 - There are no warning lights coming on the dash
2 - It is not overheating, temp is on normal, the noise is there driving or idling.
3 - changes gears fine
4 - steering is fine
5 - starts fine
6 - all electrics work.
7 - it had all injectors replaced about 2 years ago
8 - The timing belt and steering rack have been changed in the last 12 months.
any ideas? a bloke in work thinks its the water pump bearings on the way out?
could the aux belt itself be slipping?? but it seems more a fault wih a pump/alternator?
im just scared that if the wife carries on driving it something will eventually give up and seize, not fun when she has the baby in the car.
cheers for any pointers help... <*** class="bbc_emoticon" src="http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif" alt=":)" />
Noo!!! You can't get a Bilstein Crankshaft Damper for fifty quid on e-Bay!! The picture against the advert was a Bilstein, but the one they sent me was an un-named one in a plain cardboard box. Most probably made in China. I'm not happy. I'll put an appropriate comment on the e-Bay feedback... The car has done 150K miles now, by the way, so changing the pulley at 100K miles together with the cam-belt would have been the wisest course of action. I suppose the alternator will need changing next. With my luck it'll last another year and fail next Christmas so's the car will be off the road 'till New Year again!
I have a Citroen C4 Coupe, 1.6Hdi (diesel), 5 years old with 27,000 miles on the clock. Very low mileage , serviced regularly and driven carefully. I noticed the clutch slipping a couple of months ago and as it was due for a service I asked the guy to check the clutch which he did and said it was a little worn but should be ok in the meantime. A week or so after the service I was out in the car and went to reverse to get out of a space when I heard a soft thud and the car stopped moving. I then tried to put it in first and move forward and the engine just revved without moving anywhere. I decided to take it to a Main Dealer because I wanted the car back as soon as possible and thought they would be more skilled in looking and correcting the problem. 3 weeks later I received a phonecall (yes 3 weeks!) to tell me that they had taken out the gear box and discovered a deformed finger. Whilst they had the gear box out they decided to replace the clutch even though it was pretty ok because to replace it a year or so down the line would mean another 8 hour labour. They are now trying to charge me £900 for parts +labour in a car that although is 5 years old has very low mileage and has in no way been thrashed around at all.
Is there anything I can argue with the dealers to get this cost reduced? I have seen many people with clutch issues in C4's so am wondering if it is a design fault that they should go so early? I dont know too much about mechanics so what would cause the deformed finger in the first place? Any advice and help you can give would be most appreciated.... Read more
I think you are on a hiding to nothing they will just say its out of gaurantee the only chance you have is if they have serviced the car and also did they they inform you what they were going to do and how much it would cost because if they didn,t just tell them to put the old clutch back and take it from there..
I personally would not have have taken the car to the agents in the first place as the are renown for high prices something you must have already known, but they are correct in one way and that is to replace the clutch while it was stripped down its good practice.
Hello there! I don't really know where to start so I'll give you a short version and a long version...
The short version:
Will the pressure regulator valve off a 0 445 010 010 Bosch fuel pump fit a 0 445 010 046 pump?
I know the pumps are both CP1 and are interchangeable but are the pressure regulator valves also interchangeable between pumps?
The long version:
I have a 2001 406 with 350,000 miles on it. Its a 2.0 HDi (90bhp) and has been a great car to us over the years.
A few weeks ago the engine light came on and it started running on for a second or 2 after it was turned off at the ignition.
Then after a few days, there was some power loss (difficult to say how much because i never really push the car too hard anyway).
About a week after that, the engine cut out when I was slowing down on the motorway.
Since then it has been cutting out intermittently when I'm slowing down - especially when I'm going down through the gears. Usually it doesn't cut out until its warm, but sometimes it does. It also cut out while idling at traffic lights once when cold (this was the only time it cut out when idling but not the only time when it cut out while cold).
The fuel filter was changed a few thousand miles ago so I know that that's not the problem.
I took it to a friend who ran it through his diagnostics and cleared a few codes but the one that seems to be causing the problem is the "Pressure Regulator Valve" (I don't know what the code number was).
I know that the pressure regulator valve is on the back of the fuel pump but I can't seem to find one for my pump at a decent price in Northern Ireland.
A new Bosch regulator for my pump is £180 and a new non-Bosch regulator is £115 but I don't want to pay that sort of cash for something that might not solve the problem.
The part number for my pump is 0 445 010 046 and the part number for my pressure regulator valve is 0281 002 493 but nobody about here seems to be selling the same pump as mine and I don't know if the pressure regulator off the other Bosch pump (part number: 0 445 010 010) is the same as mine.
I have been offered 3 or 4 of those (0445010010 complete pump) at £40 or £50 and I'm told that its ok to replace the 046 pump with the 010 pump but I don't want to pay someone to change the pump until it needs to be changed (the timing belt was changed about 30 or 40,000 miles ago so its not even worth it in that sense).
So... Will the pressure regulator valve off a 0445010010 fit the 0445010046 or do I need to replace the whole pump?
Or maybe my friend is wrong and the pressure regulator valve isn't the problem? Read more
you know what the joiner said measure twice cut once. I would be more inclined to check
ect sensor check resistance reading & for a 5v at sensor plug. Also check injector leak...
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The red/black wire was disconnected but this had no effect.
My problem is that the distributor hall sensor does not switch when I slowly hand turn the engine (voltmeter at the correct ignition switch amplifier terminals just shows a flat 10v)....