February 2011
Hope someone can help. I lost all of my accessories last week driving home, wipers, lights, heater etc. Fortunately I was only a few yards from my house when it happened. Went to start my car the next day and all was fineturned it around in my drive to unload some things then went to start again, turning over very slowly, battery nigh on dead. Tested alternator on the vehicle running after re-charging the battery, voltmeter read only 12.5 and did not go up at all whilst cranking engine. At fast rev's it still only read about the same. Decided I would replace the alternator but as money is a little tight to say the least I got one from a scrappy, had it tested though at a friendly parts store and all was fine. Fitted alternator (very pleased with myself!) took for drive all working fine, left running for a bit so that I could take a reading off the battery after to see if all was indeed fine. Unfortunately the car stalled whilst I was inside (had actually forgotten I'd left it running, oops, a bit blonde!) But I used the voltmeter on the battery with engine off and it only read 5V. Thinking alternator probably hadn't been a problem in the first place I replaced the battery as it was several years old and was desperate to have the car ready for work next morning (clutching at straws now) Anyway, all was fine for about 40 miles of driving, stopping, starting up again, heater on at times, wipers on at times etc. Then last night the whole car died when approaching a very busy roundabout! Engine died, all electrics, dash lights, everything. Am at a loss now, have tested alternator with car idling and at about 2000rpm ish and it still only reads about 12.5 so I think battery is just not getting the charge, but don't think it's the alternator as I did have it tested. One thing I did notice is that before I fitted the new battery the battery read 10V, after running around with it on for half an hour I disconnected it took a reading again and it said 12, which suggests to me that it must have got a charge from somewhere?? Also, I have noticed a strange erratic ticking noise occasionally under the bonnet, sounds as if it's comming somewhere from the back (windscreen side) of the engine comaprtment, don't know if this is relevant. ANY help would be very very much appreciated!! Read more
From question last week, it now appears that rather than having faulty brakes (again) I now need to have gearbox electro valves replaced together with a split pipe in engine air dossier/docker? (can't read his writing so this may not be correct but you will know). Parts are priced at £118.68 and £40.08 respectively which would seem to include VAT if this is any help.
1. Who would you recommend for this job? Garage is quoting 5 hrs @ £80/hr - seems a lot to me as gearbox is not removed so they tell me.... Read more
to save digging back through for last weeks questions and answers please advise what the problem is with the car. Am I reading correct its an automatic with a problematic gearbox?
I have a Fabia 1.2, I am having troubles!!!!My heating, electric windows, rear wiper and fog lights are not working for the first 10 mins of any journey...I have taken the car to the local dealer and they changed the relay to no avail, they advised me to take the car to a specialist mechanic as they didnt know what the problem could be. Please help!!! Read more
Hello there could someone tell me,what problems will i have if any.
i need a HNV code gearbox for a 55 plate passat, but someone has said i could get around this by using a FHN code gearbox.any help would be great Read more
The engine code, as I have already stated is on the LHS of the label to the lst of the gearbox code. It is just 3 letters and may have 3 or 4 dashes in front of it. It is the same font and size as the gearbox code. Regards Peter
Hi
Hoping someone can help, My Chrysler has serious issues, when i try to start the car the alarm set light on the dash comes on beeps and stays on to the point where it wont let u start the car.... Read more
had same problem ,on off with batterycables,car worked for some days and same s*** alarm on and flashing and then after few try dont starter dont kick in...sit for days and starts all ok,and same s***,sometime istruments work sometime not,but scared to turn it of when first running...read an forum for solution..one guy said check instrument panel and i have heard that before...took dash apart,easy job look carefully for all screws and also pull on it ,its popped on on upper part,dont have to take wents out!!! exept vent on left outer side of dash....inst is fasten with 4 screws then eletrical plug on back of it has some colored clips on to hold it on place,use a small screwdrive and push in on each end (a little open slot)and pull clips out..be careful..then pull conector off....just carefully twist and turn all parts and u get them out.......
Thanks for the truly valuable info, that I'd failed to find anywhere else yet. I was seriously considering buying a TwinAir 500 because of the claimed economy, though being realistic would have settled for anything over 55mpg. Now I can happily save a pile of money by buying a secondhand 1.2 instead. Read more
Brought a 2012 Twinair last week with 40,000 miles recorded and love it.
Seems the best way to get the best out of it is to treat it like a diesel, goes like a rocket and is returning 53 mpg.
The big thrill though is just how much fun this is, like taking a new puppy for its first walk it just wants to run and play. Best car I've bought for ages.
HI
I have a Ford mondeo 53 plate 2.0 TDCI 6 speed 130bhp, I have just had the flying wheel and clutch repaired. The turbo does not kick in anymore!! it doesnt fly like it used to!! its a normal diesel engine now!! any suggestions?? ... Read more
I wonder if the OP has been waiting a year for that wonderful diagnosis.
Hi having a problem with the blower fan on my 1994 1.6 Peugeot 306 not working, some unusual sypmtoms which may mean something to someone with more knowledge of car electrics than me.
I know for a fact the blower fan itself is working as it comes on intermittenly from time to time, today for some reason it came on twice when I was messing with the hot cold dial/switch next to the blower switch?
When the blower dial/switch in the dash is switched on the backlighting on the 3 heater control dials on the dash comes on, when the blower dial/switch is switched completely off the backlights go off.
When the backlights on these 3 dials/switches are on and the cars headlights are switched on the backlight switches off!
I've also noticed the of the 4 push in buttons for the fog lights front and rear, hazard lights, and rear window heater, only 2 of these now light when depressed, the hazard light switch and the rear window heater switch. Although I'm not sure if that is relevent to the blower problem.
Any help is much appreciated as I'm freezing! haha. Read more
hi, did this resolve your problem, i have a similar issue...
Can anyone please tell me if the body is partly galvanized/ non galvanized or fully galvanized?
... Read more
my car has green psf in it .i think its the wrong type. i was told it should be red.does it really matter, or is it ok to top up with green fluid Read more
Browse
The alternator is excited ( needs a voltage applied for a short time to get it going ) via a separate contact on the ignition switch, it could be that the switch contacts are intermittent or broken.
Connect your test meter to the battery then start the engine, check the voltmeter reading, will be around 12v if not charging & above 14v if charging....