January 2011
Hi all. I am almost 30 months into a 5 year HP payment plan on my current car. As far as I am aware this means I could hand the car back to the selling dealer and walk away with nothing more to pay.
However, being almost two and a half years old the bodywork is not perfect, no dents but a few minor scratches that could do with work before the dealer would sell it on. My question is would they expect me to pay for these repairs or would they be considered average wear and tear? Read more
Hi
I recently bought a 55 reg Ford Focus hatchback, a 1.8 TDCi (115PS). I've noticed a bit of bluey-white smoke ( I know that knowing if it's one or the other is useful....) upon a cold start. The smoke lasts for about 2 minutes before clearing to what looks like nothing more than a little steam. It isn't especially thick (I've heard/read stories of being unable to see though it, and it filling the cabin), but it's definitely more and with a definite 'stronger than usual' smell than when it's warmed up, and definitely more than my old 106.... Read more
Hey, did anyone come back with an answer? As I have the same issue on a 2005 Focus C-Max during startup in the morning. It doesn't happen for the rest of the day. The car has rough idle for the first 2-3 mins and then is ok. Power is normal and it doesn't use any oil between services. An independent garage told me that the DPF is gone. Can anyone help with advice?
First, a 2005 C-Max is very unlikely to have a DPF, and even if it did it's not going to be the cause of this.
What is likely is a cracked cylinder head which is allowing coolant to enter a cylinder as the engine cools. To confirm this do the following. ...
Here we go... Sorry for the essay but I felt that a bit of history may help.
My 407 has 95,000 miles and to say the least has been well and truly used and abused. I purchased the car with 18,000 miles in Feb 2008. All the mileage has been created from a 100 mile round trip to work and back (All motorway mileage). For the last year the car has been shaking/misfiring when cold (but only at idle). When driven and revved the misfire seems to disappear but come back at idle if still cold. Also the revs at idle are slightly higher than normal. Then when I drive for a few minutes and the engine has begun to warm everything is running smooth. Hence why it has been ignored for so long. (No warnings lights at all)... Read more
PEUGEOT 407 2.0 petrol 2004,70 000 mil(today 100 000)...
My 55-plate 2l petrol Mazda 6 has started stalling when approaching junctions and when putting the clutch in or coasting for short distances at slow speeds (in car parks or traffic queues for example)
When this happens, the revs drop below the normal idling range (650-700), bounce up and down and the car then sometimes stalls once they get below around 500. The car will always start fine whenever this happens and I'm able to pull away without a problem.... Read more
My 55-plate 2l petrol Mazda 6 has started stalling when approaching junctions and when putting the clutch in or coasting for short distances at slow speeds (in car parks or traffic queues for example)
When this happens, the revs drop below the normal idling range (650-700), bounce up and down and the car then sometimes stalls once they get below around 500. The car will always start fine whenever this happens and I'm able to pull away without a problem....
Am looking at buying a 2006-2008 BMW 330D Saloon. I have been unfortunate to have bought two complete lemons recently which have ended up costing me thousands of pounds in repairs (Audi A6 Allroad being my biggest mistake by far!!).
As I see it, I can either;... Read more
http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/viewforum.php?f=5
All the info you could ever need about buying and running any model BMW....
I'm nin the market for a new car in the next month and for the last few years have driven Audis which I have bouight from new.
Now that I'm not so flushed with cash I am looking to buy a 9 month old either A4 Avant 2.0 diesel or a Mondeo Titanium 2.0 diesel with say 12K on the clock.... Read more
Alfa are now perfectly reliable, and a pleasant drive as well. I commute on the motorway and I like comfort and speed. I also like how an Alfa looks and they have some pretty snazzy gadgets and are reasonable to insure for someone my age. Besides, those were the first two models I could think of off the top of my head!
Having said all that, I own a petrol Mazda 6. It's awesome. It handles like a hot hatch, I get good mpg and it has a lot of kit you'd expect on a much more expensive car. It's also comfy for long drives. I'd recommend them, although obviously they haven't got the prestige of Audi.
This is my first car which i brought in July 2010. (51 Reg 1.6 VTR Coupe)
When purchased i was aware that i could not operate the central locking remotley due the the battery in the keyfob being flat.... Read more
I currently drive a Y-reg VW Passat 2.0 TDi Esate, and have done for the last 8 years. Overall I have been very happy with it - it has a nice bit of poke when needed and cruises effortlessly. The only major issues I have had are the fuel injectors at around 100,000 miles and the ground clearance.
I was thinking of replacing it with a similar diesel estate but better ground clearance. But, having had the second bad winter in a row with (having done some research) a serious possibility of another 7 or so white winters to come, I am thinking of an AWD Estate instead. I have no wish to run a large SUV - the estate concept suits me ideally. I normally buy about 3 years old and then keep for several years and so, as there was a thread here in 2007 on this, I have read that; but would any of you be able to update that and suggest what I should now be looking for? Read more
Forester Turbo.
The 25-26mpg overall is paid for by the lack of repair bills outside servicing....
The battery warning light stays iluminated when the engine is running and there is no power assisted steering are the problems linked ? and how easy/costly is the repair? Read more
Normally when the alternators go on the Astras it's just one little diode in the rectifier bridge that needs replacing. You could identify and replace it for about 20p, or replace the full rectifier bridge for about £20. You need to take the alternator apart and solder the new bridge in but it does make sense, as the alternatives are to get a dodgy reconditioned one for about £80 or pay Vauxhall about £200.
My wife is ready to move on to a newer car from her current Renaul Modus. Modus has been really great but we need a slightly bigger car now.
We've looked at an 05 Scenic and it looks nice and drives well but I'm rather worried about some of the reports I've read online. There seem to be a host of common problems such as windows failing, dashboards and handbrakes. Obviously people only post online when they have a problem so maybe I'm only get one side of the story.
Can anyone on here give me any guidance please? Avoid like the plague or a good buy?
By the way it's a 2005 1.6 Dynamique, Auto with 34k miles up for £3.5k. The cam belt has not been changed so I would haggle on the price by about £400 to get this factored in.
Anything else I should consider instead? Budget is about £3k Read more
Reanualt make nice cars but design the electric connections so they corrode badly on the odd model. Thus giving intermittent faults which are very elusive.
And given that many Renault dealers are quite small with limited technical reosurces......
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>>but it needs some serious mechanical work.
What is/are the problem (s) - engine blown, gearbox knackered etc etc...