January 2011
Our Nissan Almera 2.2d won't start, although the remote key will open the doors and let us in. The local Nissan dealer said the ECU (of which the immobiliser is part) had failed –replacement £650. ECU Testing have been able to part test the ECU and report that it is fine, but cannot test the immobiliser. Is there any other way we can try to get the immobiliser fixed without having to spend £650? (The garage's quote) Could anyone break the immobiliser rolling key code and then re-code the key? The car is 7 years and 145K miles old so the other alternative is to scrap it. But I'd like to fix it if I can. Read more
Going to replace my front lower ball joint on my 307 and ordered the ball joint from a motor factor.
Anyone know what size socket/spanner is needed to unscrew and refit the ball joint.... Read more
The socket wanted for the renewing the ball joint screwed up into the hub is 41mm deep socket. The size you refer to is the nut holding the joint to the track control arm, which is 21mm.
thanks
I have just purchased a 1 year old Qashqai 2.00dci 4x4 and can hear what I believe what may be a turbo whine. Should I be concerned and how should I aprroach the dealer or Nissan?. Read more
Eventually had turbo replaced by Nissan under Guarantee.
I've a 03 mazda 6 diesel.
I noticed last week after a cold night the rear passenger brake was sticking and cooked after a 12 mile trip.... Read more
I'd had this a couple of times on my 05 Mazda 6 and the first time the garage took a look and greased the sliders & everything was ok for about 18 months.
Then before xmas one side seized on hard, and didn't free off after driving for a few hundred yards. Pulled over, wheel v. hot and throwing snow on it caused it to instantly turn to steam!...
I recently had my XF 12 month service at my local Jag dealership and was informed that the rear right tyre was on "amber"- the middle section of the tyre measuring 3mm. Is this normal after only 8,000 miles of light driving? Read more
I have had a similar problem on a few cars, where the middle of the rear tyres wears out faster than the edges. It's an issue on wide low profile tyres, particularly with RWD cars. I have tried reducing the pressure a little but haven't seen an improvement. 8k miles does sound very poor though - I would change brand of tyres.
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I bought a Peugeot 307 HDi 110 a few weeks ago but it seems a bit down on power. I cleaned the MAF and performance improved however still seems sluggish. Its not so bad after 2000rpm but 1000-2000rpm can feel like pulling off in an oil tanker Also if I floor it from 1000rpm the car will do virtually nothing then suddenly start to pull at around 2000rpm, like really bad turbo lag. My old 206 HDi 90 behaved nothing like this. It was gutsy through almost entire RPM ranges and turbo lag was virtually un-noticeable so I'm sure the more powerful 307 shouldn't be like this. Fuel economy is also down, I'm only getting around 35-38MPG.
Any ideas what the problem might be?... Read more
I am having the exact same problem with my peugeot 307 2.0 HDi. I gave it a full service hoping this might improve the situation but did not help at all. Did u get any further answers on the problem???
I used to get around 550 miles to a full tank although I have noticed over the last month or two it seems to be drinking fuel. I now seem to be getting around 400 to 450 miles out of a full tank even though around 90% of my driving is on the motorway I have dropped my speed down to 55 - 60 mph over the last few weeks to see if that helps but to no avail.
On my old Vectra (1996) diesel I used to put redex in now and again and this certianly helped is this a wise thing to do with the tdci? The manual certainly seems to suggest you avoid it.... Read more
I recently had a major service and instead of 550 miles pre tank its down to 420 once I filled up.
I assumed this was because they've changed all the filters! Although I thought I would get more miles out my car for the filters being clean and engine working more efficiently???
Saying that ive driven down south today 300mls and avg 58 mpg according to the car. Which isnt bad for my 2.0 tdci. Fuel gauge is halfway so I will see how it plays out.
Hi, people!
I got the timing belt changed in October in a local garage, then a rocker snapped out 27 miles after I took the car out of the garage. The guys took the car back into the service and told me that I had to pay another £500 to get the cam follower replaced. When I took the car out of the garage this second time, it was running OK until last week, when exactly the same ting happened, with the only difference that the engine wouldn't start this time at all. I had to get them to take the vehicle back to the garage and check it once again. Now they come to me saying that another cam follower snapped out, and that they advised me to change them all the previous time (which they didn't). They are now advising me "again" to change all cam followers and want me to pay for the whole service, regardless of the fact that the labour and parts are still under warranty. They say that it is a "coincidence" that the parts snap out one after the other, right after I have changed the timing belt. The car was running perfectly before that (for 102.000 miles). I am only a woman and I don't know much about engines, but it doesn't seem right at all to me.... Read more
Ketta
Andy is spot on, the valve timing is incorrect, may only be a fraction but thats all it takes and this will be tha cause of your rockers breaking,...
Hi all - new to the forum so thanks in advance for reading about the problem!
I've just purchased a 2002 1.6 vvti Corolla, and it has started to make a sort of grinding or rattling noise when in gear only. On start-up in neutral the car sounds normal, clutch pedal pressed or not. But as soon as I drive and get to 3rd, 4th and 5th gear there is a rattling sound coming from the engine area. It is definitely mechanical ie not wheel bearing related, and the noise disappears as soon as I press the clutch when I’m driving. The noise seems to be more apparent in 4th and 5th gear at around 30 to 40mph, but I think it may be there whenever I am not pressing the clutch and I have a feeling that the noise may be just quieter and hidden under engine noise in lower gears.... Read more
Hey, did you find a solution for your problem, I have the same
Gearbox will need to come off to see what needs doing, as its possibly a gearbox bearing as well as clutch release bearing needs attention (complete clutch replacement needed)...
My mother in law drives an '09 plate Hyundai i20 (which she loves). However recently with the cold weather she has had ice forming on the INSIDE of the windscreen. Now, I have not quizzed her about the air-con being on/ off etc, but clearly she shouldn't have to defrost the inside of the windscreen as well. Any thoughts or suggestions?? Thank.. Read more
Yes it happens - the moist outside air condensing on the cold aircon element in the heater housing, evaporates after car stopped, goes up the demist trunking and condenses on the cold screen.
The remedy is to turn off the aircon a mile or so before stopping, turn the heater to maximum to dry out the aircon element and shut the heater system down. ...
Browse
I don’t know if you have fixed the problem but try the earth lead that provides an earth for both the starter and the immobiliser. It was quite a flimsy wire that "went". I think it mounts to the engine or chassis. It looks like a immobiliser fault because the doors unlock and the dash lights up but the car won’t start. But because there is no earth to the starter, the circuit can’t be completed.
Credit to the Francombes of Lyneham who found it - after the initial diagnosis on the computer the did a bit of classic fault finding and got to the fault. it took about 1-2 hours to find so in the end cost £140(Ish)....