January 2011
During the worst of the snow this winter the ABS/traction control stopped working on our focus, the warning light came on one day and stayed on permanently. I assumed that one of the sensors or wires for the sensors was damaged/cut.
However, just recently the lights went out for a few miles, then came back on and then, a few days later, went off again and stayed off for several days and the ABS/Traction control worked as it should. I thought the problem had fixed itself, but alas, today they have re-appeared!... Read more
I started the car as normal and noticed that the interior light, electric windows and later the remote door locking was not working. I have checked the fuses with no results. It all happened at the same time.
... Read more
Thanks Ken C
Exact problem....
Our Nissan Almera 2.2d won't start, although the remote key will open the doors and let us in. The local Nissan dealer said the ECU (of which the immobiliser is part) had failed –replacement £650. ECU Testing have been able to part test the ECU and report that it is fine, but cannot test the immobiliser. Is there any other way we can try to get the immobiliser fixed without having to spend £650? (The garage's quote) Could anyone break the immobiliser rolling key code and then re-code the key? The car is 7 years and 145K miles old so the other alternative is to scrap it. But I'd like to fix it if I can. Read more
I don’t know if you have fixed the problem but try the earth lead that provides an earth for both the starter and the immobiliser. It was quite a flimsy wire that "went". I think it mounts to the engine or chassis. It looks like a immobiliser fault because the doors unlock and the dash lights up but the car won’t start. But because there is no earth to the starter, the circuit can’t be completed.
Credit to the Francombes of Lyneham who found it - after the initial diagnosis on the computer the did a bit of classic fault finding and got to the fault. it took about 1-2 hours to find so in the end cost £140(Ish)....
Going to replace my front lower ball joint on my 307 and ordered the ball joint from a motor factor.
Anyone know what size socket/spanner is needed to unscrew and refit the ball joint.... Read more
The socket wanted for the renewing the ball joint screwed up into the hub is 41mm deep socket. The size you refer to is the nut holding the joint to the track control arm, which is 21mm.
thanks
I have just purchased a 1 year old Qashqai 2.00dci 4x4 and can hear what I believe what may be a turbo whine. Should I be concerned and how should I aprroach the dealer or Nissan?. Read more
Eventually had turbo replaced by Nissan under Guarantee.
I've a 03 mazda 6 diesel.
I noticed last week after a cold night the rear passenger brake was sticking and cooked after a 12 mile trip.... Read more
I'd had this a couple of times on my 05 Mazda 6 and the first time the garage took a look and greased the sliders & everything was ok for about 18 months.
Then before xmas one side seized on hard, and didn't free off after driving for a few hundred yards. Pulled over, wheel v. hot and throwing snow on it caused it to instantly turn to steam!...
I recently had my XF 12 month service at my local Jag dealership and was informed that the rear right tyre was on "amber"- the middle section of the tyre measuring 3mm. Is this normal after only 8,000 miles of light driving? Read more
I have had a similar problem on a few cars, where the middle of the rear tyres wears out faster than the edges. It's an issue on wide low profile tyres, particularly with RWD cars. I have tried reducing the pressure a little but haven't seen an improvement. 8k miles does sound very poor though - I would change brand of tyres.
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I bought a Peugeot 307 HDi 110 a few weeks ago but it seems a bit down on power. I cleaned the MAF and performance improved however still seems sluggish. Its not so bad after 2000rpm but 1000-2000rpm can feel like pulling off in an oil tanker Also if I floor it from 1000rpm the car will do virtually nothing then suddenly start to pull at around 2000rpm, like really bad turbo lag. My old 206 HDi 90 behaved nothing like this. It was gutsy through almost entire RPM ranges and turbo lag was virtually un-noticeable so I'm sure the more powerful 307 shouldn't be like this. Fuel economy is also down, I'm only getting around 35-38MPG.
Any ideas what the problem might be?... Read more
I am having the exact same problem with my peugeot 307 2.0 HDi. I gave it a full service hoping this might improve the situation but did not help at all. Did u get any further answers on the problem???
Hi,
Sorry for the rather strange topic title, anyway on Monday I was driving back from work and on my way to my local Tesco station to fill up with Diesel and the fiel guage was reading about a few millimiters above the area where it would normally beep and display fuel low(or something to that effect) I have never intentionally driven my 206 in the reserve for fear of both running out of fuel and also sucking up a load of crap from the fuel tank.
Driving along nicely and then the engine management light came on along with a beep and anti pollution fault(which is something that has popped up ever now and then-my 206 does not have a FAP filter system) so I tried to start it and it wouldn't...I had to call the AA in the end which had to tow me back to my house(less than 2 miles away) but before doing so he tried various things like asking the obvious if there was sufficient fuel in the tank etc etc(which there was according the the guage) and upon connecting it to his computer it came back a fault relating to the error code P1112 fuel rail pressure.
Got it back to my house and after more faffing about he sprayed some easy start in the intake and asked me to turn the engine over and it did for about a second....5 litres of diesel in the tank and the poxy thing started with no problems other than a flattened battery from attempting to crank it over several times by myself and him. However- driving it now it's sluggish, more so in first and second gear(it feels like there is no boost going on) and you feel like your not moving at all sometimes, but once you get it going to can drive along a flat bit of motorway at 70 fine(adding more speed seems to take much longer than usual when driving at speed as I've noticed)
The last 2 days it had illuminated the engine management light and also beeped anti pollution fault on the central display whilst driving it along or from initial startup-this does not happen anymore for some strange reason, I did crap myself when this first happened as it had done this before and cut out, this is not the case now as I have since to see the light appear!!
Could the turbo be on it's way out or gone completely or maybe the injectors?? I could not get the top of the fuel filter housing off as I was going to check the fuel filter to see if that was gunked up and possibly replace the filter. I did notice a little bit of smoke when revving it in first gear to built up speed(albeit slowly) but there appears to be no more after asking a friend to follow me home and keep an eye on things.
Mike. Read more
Moved to Technical where you should get more help in addition to the good advice from Injectiondoc.
I bought my car off a man who let it sit on his drive for about a year unused, we put some charge in the battery from another battery pack and I drove it home with no problems. The car drove prefectly. The next day we put a new battery in the car, I dove it down to the petrol station to fill it up and again the car drove perfectly. The next day when it came to starting the car up as soon as I started it the engine cut out straight away, the thing is there does not seem to be any problems with it under the bonet, I cant seem to figure out what the problem is. Read more
immoboliser problem(replaced under warraty):- article written about my other vw polo 1.3cl 1995 engine ADX.
if anyone having problems when car comes to stop,going around roundabouts,slowing down to stop AND CAR CUTS OUT FOLLOWING POSSIBLE SOLUTION;-(VACUUM PIPI FROM THROTTLE HOUSING TO BRAKE SERVO UNIT)...
How old is your focus?? If its a 2003 or 2004, its probably corrosion of the circuit board at the back of the instruments. Take the instrument panel out and disassemble it. Spray the board with a can of circuit board spray from maplins. Worked for focus.