January 2011
Help ,
New to this site , i need advice on what to do to possibly avoid Mr. Honda's exeptionally steep (my opinion) labour rates .... Read more
hi all. my 307 has developed a really bad misfire at low revs. its was only a slight misfire and intermitent at first but now its bad and all the time. i bought a set of used injectors and fitted them but its made no difference. ive been searching the internet and cant find any answers. anyone got any ideas? cheers, matthew Read more
Is the 110 the same as a 90. Mine is 02 plate it starts but does not rev I have to wait then when on tic over its very lumpy but drives spot on any ideas please befroe I scrap the thing
I discovered my coolant reservoir was completely empty and we had a leak in the system which turned out to be some cracked housing. This was replaced along with the thermometer and coolant replaced. After a day the temp guage kept shooting to red. Took it back to garage (twice) and they stated the engine wasn't overheating and they believed it was a dash issue and recommended I just drive it as it was. Issues with engine management light coming on as well, and the guage then died completely. Car eventually went into limp mode.
Took it to my normal garage for their opinion, they checked thermometer and water pump which were both fine, replaced a broken switch which revived the temp guage and replaced a sensor. All was well except still going into red which they believed was down to an airlock. Bled the system, test drove the car hooked up to scanner and verified when guage went to red engine wasn't overheating. Suggested we drove the car as may still be a small amount of air in system.... Read more
I am posting this in the hope that I can save others from expense of going through what I have. If you want to just skip to last para the solution is there. Over the past month I have had the same probelms with my 2001 Focus 1.6 Zetec. I have owned the car from new and various members of the fmaily have used it so its taken 11 years for this issue to come out. The temp gauge would shoot to the red mostly when on a motorway or climbing a long hill but it gradually got worse to the extent that even on short journeys it was an issue.
Cut a long story short, change thermostat, then temp sender, then full flush of rad, then had water pump examined by camera, then garage found that head was an issue when tested at high tempertaure as gas was discoulouring test liquid they used. Head was warped probably due to overheating....
Hi,
My wife's cars wiper motor needed replacing a few days ago and we've just received the bill. The car is a 2001 Renault Megane and we went to a local indie that we use to service the car. ... Read more
To be fair, they're a business and a skilled mechanic isn't going to touch anything for less than £50 i'd say. You could have done the job yourself by the sounds of it which may be worth bearnig in mind for next time if you begrudge the £55.
Last July after approximately 2-3 hours driving at 135 –140 k/hour ( 75-85 mph) the turbo power cut out –on a hill ie the engine is under load. No unusual noise & no warning lights. The next morning, engine cold – no problem.
The Citroen main dealer said it was ‘either the turbo or the ‘electric valve regulator’ for the turbo & fitted the latter. The problem continued, but after parking the car overnight & re-booting the computer when starting the problem always disappears.
Six monthe in UK including motorway driving – no problems.
On returning to France & on the autoroute South, after 4-5 hours of driving on climbing hills between Lyon & Grenoble the turbo power failed.
After re-booting the computer & driving gently & presumably letting the engine cool a little the turbo re-started! When cold the next morning – no problems with full turbo power.
The dealer has diagnosed – code P2562 which I am told is for a ‘faulty wastegate pressure regulator valve’.
I have been quoted 1,858 euros – approx £1616 which includes the 5 hours labour, to replace the turbo.
I am a retired garage owner (74 yrs old) & out of touch with modernity!
Your advice would be greatly appreciated. I have looked after the car in every respect ie regular servicing at the main dealer etc etc & never driven ‘hard’. I intend to keep it as I cannot afford the new one!
Yours sincerely
Iain Davidson
Read more
This did not solve the Antipolutant Fault.
Also found that one of the fuses marked Batery+ in the handbook was missing from fuse box. After replacing I could hear the whirling at the back. Presumably EOLYS being pomped in or something but it was doing it for a very long time. Not sure who removed that fuse but after replacing it I took it for a ride. Service light and Engine light went off few yards up but when I took the car on a road to see if the error comes back - it did. ...
Hi,
My golf has just suffered the piston damage and loss of compression problem that has been reported on the internet. Mine was 19 months old and 34K miles when I noticed the symptoms. I got it straight into the dealer so did not get the bore damage that others have suffered.... Read more
Hi Zango here,
My update is that the new engine is fine after about 8K miles. Better mpg than the previous one....
Hi, anyone know how to reset the service/oil display on a 2010 Tcdi Kuga please,
Thanks Syeady. Read more
Ah, that did it, Thankyou all for your replies.
Steady.
Hello all, im a newbie to this site but have been reading a lot of relevent posts regarding the mazda 6.
I as the title suggests, have a 2008 Mazda 6 2.0 Diesel (Chassis JMZGH.....) and for the past year have been having increasing problems with the power of my car. For the first two years it worked fantastically, the fuel consumption was fantastic. But then one day I appeared to have a complete loss of power when trying to pull away. The revs dropped below what it is when idle, almost to a stall (flickering wildly above the 0rpm line) until I finally got a response, to which the car then flew forward. I thought it must have been my driving, and let it go to the back of my head.... Read more
The windows will all open if the open button on the keyfob is pressed for > 5 seconds. (I know because it happened to me when I fell asleep on my keys) Same thig on Fords as well!
The engine on my 2006 (current shape) 2.0 TDi diesel Passat occasionally cuts back to half power, presumably to safe get-you-home mode. It has done it on and off since new but it is more frequent now. The car has done 146,000 miles but is still quiet, fuel consumption is good and performance - when the problem is not happening - is good.
It can happen in the following conditions:... Read more
As someone working in an unrelated profession with over 21 years experience of garages seeking the most profitable solution rather than the best for the customer, I would class changing a £1,400 assembly (which can't be that shot, as it works fine a lot of the time) on a 140,000+ mile car as a slovenly solution to a manageable problem.
If the vanes are sticking, take it apart and clean it. If any parts are worn, replace them....
I have just replaced the turbo on my 307 at a huge expense. Its hard to say if it did this before or not due to the turbo fault, it starts fine but smokes a bit and runs lumpy for the first 30 seconds or so. It clears and is then fine except for what can only be described as a tappety noise which comes and goes but is noticable more when you slow down and use engine braking. It pulls well and there is no excessive smoke under acceleration, just this noise and the smoke on initial start up. Any help would be appreciated as im slowley losing the will to live. Has just been serviced too. Thanks Read more
Right, glow plugs have been replaced which seems to have cured the smokey starting and lumpy running on initial start. The ticking, tappety noise is still there but comes and goes but at times can be quite bad. Noisy more often than not. Its really starting to aggrivate me tbh. I dont know if i should buy new injectors or what to do.
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Thanks for the advice , it may be a sensor or something more serious . My whinge about main dealer prices still stands though . If £80 per hr. is reasonable then i'm in the wrong job . As far as running a cheaper motor is concerned , proportionately the cost of the repair would be higher and the chance of a cheaper (older ?) motor developing faults would be greater .
I am very happy with the CR-V and it tows my caravan well being
economic and having 4 wheel drive when needed . This is the first niggle that i've experienced with it otherwise i have no intention of changing it :-)
The idea of posting this problem here was to find out if anybody had experienced a similar problem to mine and how they repaired it .