May 2008
Corsa Life CDTI 3 door Z-13-DT 1248cc first reg may 2004
Can anyone suggest what might be causing this irritating fault.
The left indicator works intermittently. It has been doing this for several months. A few days ago it passed its MOT! at Caffyns main dealer.So it was working properly for a short time!!
In the past it worked properly for varying lengths of time after the hazard lights had been on for a while. Then it reverted back to intermittent periods of working.
All the bulbs are working and the fuse is fine. The energy managment symbol is on most of the time. Is this related? After about 1 min it comes on and stays on.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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The Focus has a different bonnet locking method than usual. You swing the Ford badge at the front of the car aside & use the key.
A few days ago I attempted to open the bonnet. The key turned each way, but the bonnet stayed shut.
On looking through the grill, I could see that the plastic connecting rod had slipped off at the latch end.
No problem I thought, and tried to open it with a long screwdriver inserted just above the badge. I eventually opened it, but broke the plastic lock part in the process.
I trot along to Ford, they look at the part, consult the computer & inform me that I cannot buy the damaged part ( a plastic thing about the size of a cotton reel, should be cheap ) and I must but the whole lock driving mechanism. ( £25 )
Once this is supplied it consists of a short Bowden cable with the lock barrel at one end. I transferred the barrel & installed it.
However in talking to a mechanic I learnt that this is an ?upgraded? part to allow Ford to claim a level of compliance with Thatcham. Since it is effectively a short cable bent through an S curve, its quite stiff to turn even when new. He informed me that they fail occasionally mostly due to corrosion and / or the lock becoming stiff.
The fix is to cut the grill out of the car, cut the cable and peel it back until you can find enough to turn. If you are lucky the bonnet will open.
The moral being if you have this lock on your Focus, keep the bonnet lock and key barrel well lubricated. The cure could be very painful ££?s.
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M
Mondeo mk 3 bonnet works in the same way. So I guess your advice may apply to Mondeo's as well?
I'm looking to get my Golf serviced and when i called the local VW dealer they were unable to give a quote for the work as they said it depended on what the 'chip' in the car said it required. As anyone else had this response? I'm unwilling to take the car in unless they can quote first so have decided to use a local garage. My main question is does a garage need to have all the high tech diagnostic equipment to be able to perform a thorough service on the car or is it just a matter of finding a competent mechanic who replaces the oil, filters and whatever other bits need changing and tops up fluid levels?
Thanks is advance for any advice you can give. Read more
Spot on, Lud: it's the independent experienced specialist whose price is not rock bottom and who will take the time to talk through problems and issues. You build a trusting relationship with them and have no discomfort with their bills, because of the quality of the work and your involvement with it. Beats main-dealer experience hands down. It's "Well, you could leave that for another six months, but if I were you I wouldn't because . . ." rather than "Hello, Service reception here. You need new disks and pads . . . No, sorry, I can't connect you with the mechanic . . .".
I'm having difficulty getting my VW 130 Passat into first and Reverse. Is this the clutch or flywheel or both? Does the clutch & flywheel come as one kit? Is the flywheel a big job to fit?
Thanks to all those who advised me on re mapping. I just got a 130 instead of boosting a 100. For your information a re map guy told me the old 110 takes extra power better than the new PDs but he's never heard of any problems up to 150 bhp apart from the clutch, which you all know about.
{several separate questions merged, as they're all related to each other} Read more
Check that the clutch master cylinder piston is returning fully to the rest position so that the clutch release bearing can move fully back to engage the clutch. It will have to do this in order to accomodate the thicker linings of your new clutch. Fluid can only return to the reservoir in order to allow the clutch to adjust itself if the pedal returns fully and the recuperation port in the cylinder is uncovered.
The master cylinders on these cars are prone to sticking - on some old Passats I've had to hook my foot under the clutch pedal to make it return fully. On a short-term basis a shot of rubber lubricant spray at the entry point of the pedal push-rod (lift the dust cover) has been known to fix this.
659.
Hi, new to this site and hoping someone has a few idea's for my '97 fiesta 1.25 ghia!
Fault: -Remote key won't work/reprogram
-Door ajar light in dash won't come on
-Tailgate release button won't work
-Alarm system doesn't arm and work
-Double locking won't work even though central locking does.
I'm not sure if these are all inter related or if they are seperate faults? My sister gave me this car and said when she first had it the alarm and boot release worked but she set off the alarm with the bonnet open and now it doesnt!
I have: -Checked all fuses
- Done the Anti theft alarm/double locking self diagnostic mode test which resulted in the it not starting the test at all. This according to the TIS manual says to check anti theft indicator relay power supply/relay circuit of which not being electrically minded means i've not a scooby where to start looking.
Would a fault code reader give me a starting point or would I be wasting my time and limited cash?
Any help would be greatly apprectiated! Read more
My wife's 96 5 door fiesta had very similar faults and were only fixed by replacing the alarm module mounted on the drivers side kick panel.
Tailgate release didn't work
Alarm System didn't work (watch out for aftermarket alarms which are not connect to the cars module - my wife's car had an ultrasonic system fitted next to the fusebox)
Double locking did not work but remote locking did.
A fault code reader will not help you as the faults you have are not in the ECU - However all is not lost, as the alarm module has a diagnosic mode.
Central locking can be affected by the failure of the switches in the doors, tailgate and ignition locks. (NOT the ones that are mounted the door pillers and tailgate contact block that operate the interior light) use the procedure on this site to test the complete system. www.mirez.co.uk/AlarmProbs.htm
Use the "- test -" link in blue on the above web page to check the module and switches
I printed it out and had to have several goes before being able to do each test within 20 seconds of each other. To put into test mode turn ignition off and open and close the drivers door 8 times and then follow the list of tests
Use the "(Details)" link in blue on the above web page to reprogram the fob (takes a couple of goes to put the system into program mode)
To check the fob is working (infrared type) get a digital camera or phone and point the key at the lens - if the key is working you will see the infrared led flashing in the camera's screen- if not replace the battery and try again.
The sensor for the infrared reciever is under the rearview mirror make sure you point the key at it when trying to reprogram the system.
Hope this helps
all,
just a quick question thats driving me mad. Bought a 2 year old Leon at the start of the year. All was flying with it but with the weather a bit warmer i was setting the climate contol to the "LO" setting to cool the car. However the air was not air con cold. it was more cold ish really. i use the air con regulary even when heating up the car and window demisting and to be honest i never really noticed much of a difference between it being on or off. i dont really use the auto function at all, just the manual cool for air into my face.
any ideas as to the cause? is it just a regass job (or possible a leak of the gas) do ye think or is it just because its climate control that it wont do the really cold air cool?
any help would be great because i'm confused and dont want to go spending a packet on regassing etc when it may just be a characteristic of a climate control system... Read more
unfortunately out of warranty...Seat just give 2 year warrantys here in Ireland unlike 3 in the UK. its 2 years 3 months old. The dealer i bought it from 3 months ago are useless on warranty issues anyway. i know they'll fob me off...like i said great to buy from, goos servicing but lowsy aftersales when you're not actually giving them money. they make you feel a complete pink fluffy dice tbh...
Obviously i wont just be getting it regassed by some idiot. I'd never skimp on mantainence. A regas seems the obvious first port of call though. I rang the only local guy i could find. he'll check the gas levels, regas if required and put a dye into the system in case it goes pear shaped again to find any leaks. seemed to know what he was on about. also does system diagnostics before any of this to make sure everything is working as it should. at ?180+VAT its steep but if the job is thorough its fine by me...
{next time I will delete the whole post instead of editing out the naughty word as it's quicker}
We have (or had) decided on a Puma as a replacement car for SWMBO to use for work as the current Rover 214 is getting on a bit being 11 and done 130K (reliable so far) miles.
Puma looks like a good choice mechanically but despite looking at more than 15 over the last week or so, I cannot find one thats not badly rusting.
Seems the rear wheel arches are the worst but also the sills, front wings, bottom of doors etc and also weak points on nearly every one I have seen. We have been looking at X/Y/51/02 plate ones so not that old and from what I have seen some will be scrap in a couple of years.
Am I expecting too much as I dont think I should buy something thats rusty so young but it is looking like we find something else at this rate?
Such a shame that Ford didnt bother to think that the cars might be around after their anti-corrosion warranty ran out and built them properly in the first place because other than the corrosion they seem good reliable fun cars! Read more
Thanks for doing the research DP but its a bit far from the north east and I think we have almost decided to ditch the Puma idea as even if we get a good one now, its not likely going to stand up too well in 3 years time.
Im looking for a 4x4 which has great fuel economy, great looks (to impress the ladies), 6 seats or more, reasonable reliability and has a good wading depth/ground clearence. What recommendations would you offer. thank you Read more
And you forgot the king of bling....the stretch hummer...there are several for sale at the moment if you have a look, one of them in a lustrous shade of pink with a matching interior with mirrored roof for those fantasy moments, and side on seating could make an unusual bird puller.
However the type of ladies i've seen alighting these machines give me the heebies.
received a letter from hpi ltd today asking what the mileage was on my old car that i sold 30months ago. has any body had any negative outcome from replying or not replying to this request. Read more
The problem computerised MoT solved was how to get a regular checking of mileage, which is what the thread title asked, and as such HPI shouldn't have to chase for last known mileage anymore. Most people won't remember anyway.
There is no requirement in the MOT test to have a mileage recorder.
Then for those vehicles there is no problem to solve.
The speedometer is also not checked to see if it is working.
Of course the car could have been clocked for every MoT or the speedo hasn't worked for years, but in that case no matter how far HPI dig they will never find out what the true mileage should be.
My 52 reg 1.9 TDI 130 has thrown a wobbily.
Just finished filling up and locked the car on the fob and the alarm started going off - the key fob wasnt unlocking it so I had to do it with the key but the alarm still went off (the lights were not flashing though)
Ended up driving the car home (only round the corner luckily) with the alarm still going and after about 5 mins it stopped sounding.
Another possible clue is that the electric windows are suddenly not working..
So in summary:
Key fob not working (battery is fine and no difference with spare either)
Alarm went off after locking with key fob but no flashing lights
Electric windows not working
Nothing else noticed so far
Red alarm light continually flashing on drivers door but alarm not going off when I get in the car and it starts up fine...........
Any ideas? Read more
Hey thanks elekie&a/c doctor, you just helped me as well! Same problem with my Bora, the fuse wasn't blown, but must've been poor contact. Knowing they were all through one fuse was much more help than the manual.
Cheers...
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Definitely sounds like the relay is failing.I had a similar problem with our Meriva,and as another correspondent says,the relay is a little swine to get at.Best if you can remove the passenger side wiper coz that improves accessibility,but if you cant, prepare to lose some skin off your arm.