I'm having difficulty getting my VW 130 Passat into first and Reverse. Is this the clutch or flywheel or both? Does the clutch & flywheel come as one kit? Is the flywheel a big job to fit?
Thanks to all those who advised me on re mapping. I just got a 130 instead of boosting a 100. For your information a re map guy told me the old 110 takes extra power better than the new PDs but he's never heard of any problems up to 150 bhp apart from the clutch, which you all know about.
{several separate questions merged, as they're all related to each other}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 28/05/2008 at 11:25
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I'm not promising anything, but it could also be neither. I'm not familiar with the Passat, but if it is a traditional cutch cable operated clutch, it *may* just need the cable adjusting. How many and what type of miles has it done on the present clutch?
gabble
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Don't they have a lot of problems with dual-mass flywheel failure?
Maybe worth a search.
Also, it is definitely a hydraulic clutch, not cable.
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Try posting here www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/. If it was my car that needed the clutch and flywheel done then I would get both replaced as it will just be X amount of man hours to replace both the items. The last thing you want is to only replace either the clutch or the flywheel and for the other one to fail a few months later.
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THERES 105K first 45k a sales rep had it so motorway miles and after that school and shopping runs so I'm nearly sure its the clutch.
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The clutch actuation is hydraulic on this car and the friction materials last pretty well - I have seen diesel Passats with 200k miles on the original clutch.
Before going in too far, check that the clutch is properly bled - it takes a few goes. These cars have synchromesh on reverse, so a dragging clutch will not give the usual graunch but will be obstructive to engage as the reverse synchro tries to move the car along.
Access is not the best...
659.
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When Changing the clutch and flywheel on my 130 Passat using Sachs parts, I put the pressure plate on and tightened the bolts. This compressed the ring of springs on the pressure plate so they were nearly flat. Now I am worried that there will not be enough clearance on the clutch. Does anyone know if this is normal and the springs will quickly ease up when the car is used a bit, or is there something to pull out of the pressure plate to ease up the springs (like on a lorry p plate)? Please help
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PB
Sounds fairly normal; different clutches sometimes look very odd compared to the originals and the springs do pull in a long way on some.
Providing that you have a matched kit, then it should all work out in the end.
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Been there many a time stressing over a clutch looking right before bolting the gearbox back on.
Double check you have the correct kit, that the friction plate is fitted the correct way round and that you haven't trapped anything as you fitted the clutch (like a bolt or something).
The clutch fingers only need to move a very small distance to release the clutch.
David
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Can anyone tell me roughly how much the pressure plate has to move?
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I've just fitted a new clutch and Flywheel to my 130 Passat at the weekend (Sachs parts) and the clutch is slipping. How do I cure this? It is a genuine 130, not a remap.
Edited by PoloGirl on 28/05/2008 at 11:29
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Assuming correct fitting, did you thoroughly degrease the ferrous clutch components in contact with the linings, ie. new flywheel and pressure plate? New ones are always supplied with a protective layer of grease.
659.
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Yes I cleaned everything with parafin.
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Check that the clutch master cylinder piston is returning fully to the rest position so that the clutch release bearing can move fully back to engage the clutch. It will have to do this in order to accomodate the thicker linings of your new clutch. Fluid can only return to the reservoir in order to allow the clutch to adjust itself if the pedal returns fully and the recuperation port in the cylinder is uncovered.
The master cylinders on these cars are prone to sticking - on some old Passats I've had to hook my foot under the clutch pedal to make it return fully. On a short-term basis a shot of rubber lubricant spray at the entry point of the pedal push-rod (lift the dust cover) has been known to fix this.
659.
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