February 2014
hi, just need some advice.
ive replaced the injector seals myself , as 3 out of 4 were blowing oil/fuel out other issues were excessive fuel consumption, noise, lack of power, juderring . engine is a million times better... ... Read more
My 40amp fuse for the hydraulic pump keeps blowing, I have green fluid in the system,could this be the wrong fluid and could this be causing a problem? Read more
The fluid shouldn't make it do that although it should have the correct fluid in it. Your problem is probably that the pump is seizing up, they can suffer from water ingress.
Hi all,
(skip to the end for a summary)
I have done a bit of searching and I am waiting for activation of my account on French Car Forum but maybe somebody here would be kind enough to help...
My younger brother's Xantia just passed its MOT with no advisories. It's only issue was it was taking longer and longer to start over the past month or so. He ordered a set of glow plugs and I said I'd fit them for him. His is the 1.9 TD with the Bosch diesel injection pump.
It took much longer than it should have done for all the usual reasons: leaving it until it was dark, not having my tools organised and failing to read the tips online from real people (such as tying string/wool to the new plugs as you lower them in). One of them started to round but managed to get it out. For the last, and hardest to access plug (behind the injection pump) I felt it was also going to round so I decided to disconnect the fast idle cable, its adjustment/location bracket and the fast idle lever on the pump itself. This allowed me to fit a 1/4" drive socket onto the plug and avoid rounding it. Fitting the new plugs, my hands (and probably brain) had already frozen in the cold and rain and I dropped the last plug deep into the engine bay! It was behind the alternator with zero visibility or access for hands. In an attempt to fit my hand in I removed a small cover plate on the front of the pump. This was attached with 2 bolts and contained 2 springs, a seal and a plunger which I left undisturbed. Fuel leaked out from here so I knew air had made its way in. I still couldn't get to the plug so re-fitted the cover and called it a night.
The next day I bought a cheap magnetic pick-up tool, small mirror and parts tray but had to go out. My younger brother managed to use these new tools and bits of wire coat hanger to retrieve the lost plug. When I returned we fitted the last plug, the wiring for the plugs and all the extras removed for access - including that fiddly fast-idle lever on the back of the pump. I used the 'grenade' in the corner of the engine bay to prime the fuel system and tried to start it. It didn't sound quite right and never jumped into life.
I then tried disconnecting the fuel return union on the side of the pump, inserting the key in the ignition and turning it to activate the stop solenoid (but not crank it over) and manually primed the system with the grenade again. I stuffed rags around the pump and watched as air bubbles and fuel gushed out. After a while the bubbles reduced so I re-tightened the return union.
I rinsed away any spilt diesel and tried to start it up again. I possibly sounded slightly better but didn't want to start. Next I tried with the accelerator pushed down. The engine started, but as soon as I let off the pedal it stalls again. I tried revving it for longer to try and clear any last bubbles out but it still stalled just as quick.
I even disconnected the fast idle cable and re-attached it as the Haynes manual outlines. As far as I could see the cable was clamped in the same position and no adjustment had been made since before we started.
Has anybody had anything similar? Is there anything sensitive I may have broken without realising? Or what should I try next? The only thing I can think of is the small shaft that the fast idle lever locates onto (with matching flats so can only be fitted one way?) has some how moved relative to whatever it is actuating inside the pump. This means that adjustment would be required to the cable clamping position and idle adjustment screws either side of the lever. I just don't know where to start and don't want to rush into it and risk further unwanted alterations!
I know it's long so, to summarise:... Read more
I'm afraid it will be something you have done, fitting glowplugs will have no effect on the idling. Is the fast idle lever keyd to the shaft, does it have a flat on one side? If that's the only part you removed I think its pretty certain that you have it fitted incorrectly.
You can partially open the throttle by shortening the cable, there is an adjuster on the end which involves moving a circlip into a different slot.
Have just noticed knocking noise when clutch pedal depressed fully to the floor. Gears working normally .
Noise disappears when clutch pedal released.... Read more
Thanks for further advice on this. Car in Ford Service centre next Tuesday so will highlight issues further when I go in. To answer noise question. At the moment I would describe it as faint but noticeable. ( It only started this Sunday gone. Thursday now as I write this).
I suspect that few people ever change/check these tyres. They just sit there, with very occasional/no use. The risk of a catastrophic failure when they are eventually used must be high, especially as they are not of the most robust construction and are inflated to 60psi, however I have read of no such failure(s).
Maybe they are better than they look, or perhaps being stored in the dark extends their life to say 10-15 years? Seems unlikely to me. Read more
Many spares are carried outside of the car-alright-underneath!!Some,even,in the engine compartment.
I would like to pass on a word of warning after a rejected claim from Warranty Wise. During a routine service on my Range Rover I was informed that there was a rattle coming from the supercharger and that it was likely that the bearings had failed. I contacted Warranty Wise who said that I needed to instruct the garage to investigate at my own cost and they would then send an engineer out to inspect it. Once dismantled the unit when shaken rattled and there was visible evidence of the rotors touching the casing. Left this condition could have resulted in a total engine failure. The engineer who attended after waiting 2 days stated that there after 100,000 miles this was in line with wear and tear and that the unit had not actually failed. After some research contacting Land Rover UK, my local franchised Dealer and a company specialising in the Eaton M112 supercharger it became apparent that this was not a common problem and in fact I have yet to find anyone who has experienced this. This includes searching all of the land rover forums. Based on the way Warranty Wise work it would appear they try to reject any claim levelled at them. It seems very easy for then to put any failure down to "wear and tear" especially on an older vehicle with higher mileage. It would have been interesting to see what would have happened if this condition had been left to worsen and taken out the engine? After this I would recommend it may be better to put the money you were planning on spending into a bank account and using that if anything goes wrong.
(Edit: some possible actionable words removed from title and post.) Read more
I only know 1 person who got a car warranty claim paid out for a leaking crank shaft oil seal and it was for less than a fiver, Apparently in the small print it said it only covered the cost of parts and not the £250 labour charger, Which he had to pay himself.
All warranties are a waste of time in my opinion, Regardless of if they are for a car or a kettle.
I recently purchased a 1999 Subaru Legacy, and I have just received a letter from DVLA telling me that it has previously been notified as accident damaged and before I can get a V5C document I will need to put the car through a vehicle identity check costing £41. Obviously I am concerned about the history and condition of the car and I would like my money refunded by the seller. What are my legal options? The seller is a private individual. Read more
To be perfectly honest it makes little difference to its value at this age.
By the sound of it, it was recently written off. A scratched bumper can easily write off a car of this age and no one is going to carry out a major repair on it as the figures don't add up....
I have a car looking worse for wear and think a bit of TLC on the paintwork will give me best price, I have air supply and have a 6" random orbital sander but thats it. I feel embarassed to ask, where do i start, the 6inch backing disc has a smooth face so what do i need next to stick sanding discs to, an adhesived 6" velcro pad?
... Read more
To answer your original question, Professional DA air sanders are for use with self adhesive disks. Most good bodyshop suppliers should stock them.
Need to replace my cambelt/tensioner. My local garage fits Gates parts. Any they ok? Read more
In a word, YES.
Gates make the cambelts and tensioners for Ford. Ford do not make these parts themselves, they buy them in....
Hi
My wifes Honda Jazz Auto has recently started making a loud noise, on idle it's fine and we've had the exhaust checked. When driving it sounds just like the exhaust is blowing (i.e. but racer type exhaust note).... Read more
...and another thing that might be worth checking is the idler pulley on the auxiliary belt. Lump of wood/ear near to the spot on the engine should allow you to hear if its grumbling.
The bearing on this IS replaceable (the complete pulley assembly is ~£90; the bearing <£10)....
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Your engine has been misfiring & running inefficiently with the leaking injectors. This has probably left a lot of black soot clogging your exhaust system.
Your engine is now running well & at 2000 revs will be on full boost, so will be blowing the soot out of the exhaust....