May 2013
Hi
I've been offered the chance to buy a Ford S Max Titanium, 2007 with 154,000 miles on the clock. It is is Diesel.... Read more
Hi Everyone
Any help or advice would be really appreciated!
I own a Vauxhall Zafira 2.0dti 2001 Elegance
It was all running fine until yesterday when someone pulled out of a side road and cut me up. I had to emergency stop (not hard) and stalled it. When I went to restart the car it wouldn't go. It's turning over nice and quickly but just not catching.
We ended up having to call out Green Flag. The man came and looked at it and used his computer fault finder and nothing came up. No warning lights on the dash either.
He seemed to think that it could be something called an emergency fuel shut of switch that needed resetting but there wasn't one (unless any of you know of one?!). He tried disconnected one of the injector pipes and found that the fuel was coming out but slowly. He also tried jump starting it but that didn't work either.
We had it towed to the garage we normally use. After looking at it they couldn't find a problem with it either. When they sprayed easy start into the air intake the car started and ran but once stopped spraying it stopped again.
They seem to think that the fuel pump is working (they checked the current and it pumped)
They also disconnected the battery for an hour to see if the ECU needed resetting.
Non of these things have worked.
The garage is out of ideas. If they start trying new things it could prove costly and not actually solve the problem.
Some has suggested it could be a fault crank shaft sensor, someone else is saying fuel pump failure or needs new ECU.
Wouldn't these show up on the fault finder machine?
Any help would be great!
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With all those codes it sounds to me like power is missing to the ECU. Check that there is power to the engine bay fuse box & that all fuses are ok & tight in their holders. If all ok have a good look around the engine bay wiring for damage.
Since April, I suppose, superimposed upon the usual tyre noise/road noise I have noticed or become sensitised to a sort of tone or drone coming from the rear of the car or at least that is where it can be heard, from the driver's seat.
My first suspicions were perhaps a wheel bearing but have raised each rear wheel up on the car's own scissor jack and spun the wheel and rocked it etc. but I can't detect anything unusual.
The tyres are the original fit and the car has only done 17k miles on them in four years this July. The make is Michelin Energy 205/55 R16 and so nothing outlandish. They are barely half worn, but the uncharacteristic echoing tone is getting me down, quite frankly and yesterday I got a quote for four new Michelin Primacy 3 tyres, at a cost of just over £410, with a view to at least changing the old ones to see whether this noise disappears.
To my ears the car seems more prone to noticing the differences in road surface now, more than is ever did and if the car travels over a sudden undulation, flexing the suspension, the noise is exacerbated during the deflection.
Perhaps some ear wax has dislodged itself over the weeks and can detect a noise that I hadn't heard before.
It sounds to me like it's the bearing then, of you have charged the tyres. I have had my tyres rotated and got the same thing in the same place. I am trying to find a garage that has an electronic stethoscope, so they an listed for it whist driving.
can someone help me i have just bought a citroen xsara picaso 2000 and the head lights and side lights aren't working but the break lights and high beam are im thinking its a fuse of relay but need a diagram of fuse box and dont have a handbook could some one direct me to one if they can please thanks Read more
Citroën owners handbooks (Notices d'emploi) are here: INFOTEC - Citroën Service
Hi,
I bought a 2nd hand mk2 focus from a local ford dealership a couple of weeks ago.... Read more
Ford's MT75/MTX75 has synchro reverse-that's why you have a lift-up detent on the gear lever to stop you inadvertenly selecting reverse;the B5/iB5 had no synchro on reverse and no detent.
I get a terrible rattleing noise for the 1st second or two upon startup. Mostly when cold, it isnt too bad when it's been warmed up.
The car is high miliage (nearly 130k) and its the 3 cyl 1.0L engine and it gets very regualr oil changes. No smoke.... Read more
Drain the crap oil and replace with 3.5 litres of 5W30 synthetic.
Good Afternoon
Last resort for me now, should have come here first. ... Read more
I cannot believe a genuine Citröen agent cannot find the fault with your car,your fault is not unusual normally caused by a gummed up EGR valve and adjoining parts or turbo actuator.
I have read HJ's test report but it fails to comment on whether the latest Golf incarnation now has a trouble-free DSG automatic transmission or not. With all the MK6 etc owners comments about DSG problems and the now extended DSG warantees in many other countries one is "left hanging" with regard to whether to risk buying a UK specification DSG Golf just to encounter unbelievable difficulties or to plump for a seemingly trouble-free Ford auto gearbox Focus? I wonder if any Golf MK7 DSG owners could enlighten us, please? Read more
Hear Hear madf and most precise 659! Up until recently I ran, for 6 years, an in-house used car warranty company for a sizeable motor group that included a number of VW and Ford dealerships. The dealerships each sold, predominently, their own marques of used cars.
The "burn rate" ; that is, the ratio of claims paid out against the income from sales of warranties, for VW was 270% higher than the comparable figure for Ford. ...
Hi,
I do a 180 mile round-trip 3-times per week from High Wycombe to Birmingham with virtually the whole distance driven on the M40 at 85mph.
This adds up to 30,000 miles of motorway driving per year.
I currently drive a '98 Mondeo 2.0 which has 140,000 miles on the clock and is very reliable but only delivers 31mpg. That's a lot of petrol to buy every year.
Any recommendations for the most fuel efficient car for my needs?
Also, any thoughts on what would be the lowest total cost (purchase, depreciation and fuel) for my needs?
Suggestions greatly appreciated
Many thanks
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"The speed limits are set as a guidance"
A bit like the Pirate code? Not so much rules as guidelines?
The words "limit" and "set" give a clue as to their purpose.
"rules are for the blind obedience of fools and for the guidance of wise men".
Attributed to Douglas Bader, before he disobeyed the rules on low flying aerobatics, crashed and had both legs amputated ending a promising rugby career.
Hello,
Ill give you all a quick background before I explain my problem. I own a Micra K12, 2004 (04 plate), manual 1.4 SE. It has 63000 miles on the clock and has been regularly serviced and well looked after.
I have been experiencing a strange issue recently. As you will know, when the car is started from cold the blue temperature light comes on. This goes off after about 4-5 minutes of driving.
However, when stopping at traffic lights or a junction very soon after the blue light goes off, the engine does not idle very well. The RPM's drop down to about 500, then jump back to about 1000 before settling ( I assume that is some sort of anti stall feature?). Occasionally the engine will stall.
However, this is the only time the engine does this. Other than this it runs perfectly and never misses a beat. It starts well regardless of weather, never gets hot in traffic, the MPG's are good (about 50-52) etc.
In my mind, I would put this down as some sort of choke issue? It seems very weird that it only does that soon after the blue light goes off, and no other time. Therefore is it likely to be a temperature sensor problem? I understand that there are 2 temp sensors on the K12, one which controls the temperature light on the dash and the other which controls the engine itself?
I would really appreciate some advice on this issue, as I don't know where to go with it. I don't want to replace the temp sensor if I am barking up the wrong tree!
Thanks in advance.
Dean Read more
Hi. Did u sort this prob out as im having the same prob. Cheers
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These are supposed to be serviced every 12500 miles, or 12 months, whichever is the sooner, so its well overdue, and this might cause a problem for the Turbo bearings.
I'd seek clarification on this matter before going ahead, Ford Dealers usually do a low cost plan for cars over 4 years old, and this goes from £ 100 for a basic service to 175 to a full service including all filters. it goes basic, full basic full, so they need all the air & fuel filters changed every 25K and Oil and filter only at 12.5 K....