December 2012
Hi guys,
Have a pug 306 hdi and a couple of days ago the spring return in the ignition barrel went sloppy and won't return to it's correct position automatically so went to a scrappy today and got another barrel together with it's key. Trouble is after we fitted it the car will turn over properly but won't start. I presume this is something to do with the immobilizer transponder so put the old lock and key back in and sure enough the car started first time. Does anyone know if there is a way round this problem or if not is there a way to repair the original barrel so that the spring return works again.... Read more
My 2007, 53,000mile 280cdi has just failed its MoT at my local M-B franchised dealer because in their words-
-The offside knuckle joint is worn... Read more
I cannot see how your garage did anything wrong ball joints can go from servicable to non servicable in a matter of a few hundred miles.New ball joints in 5years is hardly a catastrophe you make it sound from your headline the suspension has dramatically collapsed wait till you have a real problem such as the ABS ecu or gearbox problem then you will have something to complain about but having to replace a balljoint is just everday motoring.
When the ignition key is turned to the start position nothing happens i have checked this out and found the starter relay has lost it's ecu earthing. i know getting the ecu repaired would fix this.I'm just wondering can this fault be cured by fixing another earth through ignition fix this any feedback greatly accepted Regards mickeybo Read more
So if you earth the relay does the car start?Does the car have auto transmission.?I am not convinced the ecu is at fault.hth
My car has what I believe is a common fault on this model. Engine "jerks" at low revs and intermittently cuts out when cruising. Internet folklore indicates this is the Cam or the Crank position sensor.
Q1 Unable to find a cam position sensor, is one really fitted on the tddi ?.... Read more
Just had new starter motor fitted by a friend, the car was struggling to start then burnt out the starter motor, since then it has a massive lack of power it can be rev'd over 3k but no pull, then it'll go into limp mode. It's been plugged into a computer which said the water temp switch was faulty, have changed that now but still no better, also the engine is quite noisy, when its revved above 2.5k it makes a funny clattery noise, please can some one help !!! Read more
Moved to Technical.
Hi new to this site
Im stuck on a problem with my car,the car starts and runs fine but every now and then it ticks over lumpy for a a while roughly 10-15 mins some times only 5 mins mainly when its warmed up. Then it cures itself!!!!... Read more
It could be one or more of a number of possible issues.
A Ford dealership will be able to run live diagnostics which could throw up an error code. The other garages use a static error code reader which only log certain types of error code.
Ford will charge around £60+VAT for their services, it's well worth taking it along to them.
Last few years its been snow, ice, frost etc, well whats the excuse this time? And I'm not talkin about areas where roads may have been affected by flooding, land slip etc, they are everywhere. Read more
My journey to work is only 20 miles and on major roads and the amount of Pot holes is getting out of hand. Most of the journey is spent avoiding holes in the ground! Is there a online petition anywhere to get the government to sort this?
I'm just wondering of this is OBD2 compliant ? The EEC directive for diesels says "all vehicles from 2004" and all new models from Jan 2003.
Connecting my ELM327 to this , I get 'no response from ECU' using various s/w , but all works ok on my 2006 Fiesta (naturally) , and worked fine on my 2001 Focus petrol ... Read more
Petrol cars had to be EOBD-compliant from 2001 model year, ie Sept 2000 onwards - diesel car compliance wasn't required until 2004 model year, ie Sept 2003.
For commercial vehicles the dates were later, 2002 for petrol and 2007 for diesel....
HELP!!! Immobiliser nightmare
I've had my s reg mk4 a week now. Yesterday I drove to my mums a mile down the road did what I needed to do and when I went to start the car again the immobiliser kicked in. My step dad plugged the diagnostic machine in and erased it but it did nothing. My breakdown cover came out and said he couldn't do it and it needs resetting. Is there anything I can do it can anyone recommend someone somewhere in Leicester to help??
Read more
I agree, Golf 4 immobiliser faults are rare and when we do see them it is usually the reader coil at fault. A new reader coil can only be purchased from VW with a new barrel but if you know what you are doing you can extract the new one and fit it to the old barrel.
My swift is 8 months old with under 7000 on clock and i have noticed a decrease in mpg. I am only getting 51 instead of 68. Its a 1.3 diesel 2012. I checked the oil and this is black which is not right for the age and mileage. Any ideas? Read more
Both fantastic mpgs, in my opinion.
I must get a car like this soon with the price of fuel.
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Hi , you dont say what year it is,asume its a 1999 onwards, you are right its to do with the immobilizer, and the suggestion of changing the sping over is the best way. distmantling the switch and putting it in the original switch a bit fiddly, or also as previous suggestion fit the key blade into your original key fob. Alternatively go back to the scrap yard and get the ECU ,Alarm module and transmitter all from the same vehicle your key came from also the.
The alarm module has the immobilizer code in , the transmitter ring around the lock picks up the code from the key sends code signal to the alarm module if it matches module sends signal to ECU to allow fuel etc to start the vehicle....