December 2012
I bought a 2002 Ford Mondeo 2.0 Ghia X Petrol about a year and a half ago and when driving it had a slight splutter/judder every now and then. I have seen a few posts on here with a similar issue, but on the Diesel version. Now it is winter, when the engine is cold it really does splutter, judder almost like fuel starvation.
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I need a replacement key fob as we have lost the original, i have the other key with the blue dot. I have been quoted approx £200 from Ford dealer. Any idea if I can program a replacement myself and where to buy a replacement fob South Yorkshire area.
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job done - deleted
hi,
I'm looking for a car about 3 years old which has to be very reliable. Thinking that the obvious choice would be japanese and was wondering if anyone has any bad things to say about Toyotas before I go out and buy one.... Read more
I did test drive a MMT, I think?,
either(i) it was as horrendous as so aptly described above and elsewhere,...
Having recently moved into Saab ownership (9-3 Aero, 2007, with Maptun st1 tune), I have taken HJs advice about the oil feed to the cam chain requiring frequent oil changes to heart and have performed 3 changes with flush in the 10k I've done in it so far.
At the last change I decided to go for a K&N oil filter (previously using Motaquip).... Read more
I buy OE Toyota filters on ebay from a Toyota dealer.
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I'm looking to replace my 2004 Saab 9-5 2.2Tid estate with a newer car of a similar size. I don't want to lose any bootspace, and not worried about a prestige badge. The Saab has been excellent value for money, and the new model Ford Mondeo or Subaru Legacy look good propositions. Any variants of those I should avoid or any other makes to consider?
Thanks
ScotX Read more
If you're going to consider the i40 then there's the Kia Optima version that must be due shortly with a longer warranty and probably slightly less flash. Indeed if you're looking at Octavias then the Cee'd SW is almost as big, has been around in a couple of guises for quite a few years and for the last 3 years or so has had a 7 year warranty. I've had my '59 non-DPF, auto, chain cam diesel for 2 years and can't fault it.
The Kia 7-year warranty isn't longer for everyone - it's limited to 100,000 miles, unlike the Hyundai 5-year warranty which is unlimited mileage - and you'd have to pay two more years of expensive franchise servicing to get those final two years. In any case both these warranties have wear-tear exclusions so it's not all "roses"....
my car makes a noise from the front left under the bonte, dont know where this sounds like air hissing from a compreser, it dose it when the turbo comes in once i get high rpm and change gear it gose till the rpm increases again it also stops when i lift off the gas my car is a 2006 iv only had it a few week its only done 38k if it thelps
cheers all Read more
hi
iv haad a look cant see any splits or anything out of place i do get a smell of burning oil when i get out of car at times too now
I have a 190e 2.0 litre year 1993 . I was driving in trafic at aby 30mph and sudenly in started to run on 3 insted of 4 slight loss of power etc. Ive had the car for 5 years and never thrashed the engine .Even now she is starts strait away, but she just wont run smoothly like she used too.My local garage has checked the distibter cap ht leads spark plugs etc and they seem ok.they have surgested that it might be something internal. I was just wondering could it be somthing more strait forward like a blocked and varnished up fuel injector or a partly blocked catalitic convertor. when it strted to run uneven at the time I did open my window to hear the engine and I got a strong smell of sulfer from undernethe the car for a brief second.could it be damaged sensor other electrics somewhere or am I missing something really simple. would welcome some surgestions. thanks. Read more
The sulphur smell is the cat ,could be collapsed or blocked but get a diagnostic done first to elimate any electrical faults.
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Hi, I'm new to this, and have recently bought Vectra C 2.2 DTi, 2003, have had a starting problem which has been intermittent and eventually burnt out the starter motor, changed that and now seemed to have lost power and very noisy amongst other things, has any one got any ideas please ? Thanks Read more
Moved to Technical.
Two of swmbo's colleagues, (nurses) in their uniforms stopped and breathalysed just up the road from the local hospital leaving after work still in nurses uniforms.. Both breathalysed, and one of them told that friday at this time was a good time to catch people. So don't risk it. Pleease keep A&E empty if you can. Read more
How do you know ?
I have an electronic fault occuring every time I go uphill with a complete lack of power, ie 15 mph but no black smoke. Going downhill, no problem. Car is otherwise great and gradually returns to full power. I have had all fuel pumps, and various sensors replaced over the last 5 years and EGR about 4k mls ago. I did clean EGR myself very recently and changed fuel filter plus have tried 'expensive' diesel and fuel additive. An excellent local independent diesel specialist could not find code but did otherwise confirm injector pressures etc were all OK. I have not taken car to local Renault dealer as I have no confidence they will find actual fault. Done 153,000 mls. Any ideas as to how I find fault? I did run very low on fuel once and hence changed filter in case debris sucked into lines but no difference. Thanks for any ideas. Read more
Lack of power on a hill is a very common fault on vacuum operated torbo's. And most likely faults are (weak vacuum pump) vac line connecters Rubber elbows where there prone to splitting. This fault can be checked out using a vac pump or small vac gauge to try and visually check these out would be a waste of time At vehicle idling your vac pump or gauge reading should be approx 26/27 inhg. Get this checked out first and i think you'll find out this is your problem Hth Regards Mickeybo
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Sounds like the coolant temperature sensor needs replacing.