November 2011
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What is the purpose of this sign?... Read more
Does it make any difference to tyre wear/safety and warranty to change from summer to winter tyres and back each year on the original wheels, using a reputable local garage? Read more
No problem at all, so long as your tyre fitter is reasonably careful, and you store the tyres not in use somewhere preferably cool and dark, make sure the fitter lubricates the tyre beads before removal as well as fitting, some fitters assume tyres being removed are scrap and remove them dry, this rips the bead to shreds.
Many people however prefer to use a second set, either steel wheels or a used set of cheap alloys for the winter tyres for two reasons, obvious convenience, and saving the best wheels from the ravages of salt corrosion, the tyres on wheels take up no more space than just tyres..
My car is throwing a P0172 error code - Fuel System Too Rich, nothing else.
I have taken it to a independent garage and dealership, but none seem to be able to fix and speculatively say we can do this for £x. No one can offer a diagnosis and so it falls to me with not much money to find a resolution.
The only issue i can see from my own obdii scanner is that long term fuel trim is -25% on idle everything else seems fine. O2 sensor is switching between rich and lean keeping short term at 0. When i rev the car to 3000 the long term trim reduces and short term increases.
History: Cambelt replaced in September along with alternator belt and rocker seal. TPS replaced in October. Had my exhaust system inspected by Kwik Fit to cheak for air leak near 02 sensor at front and its air tight.
Drives ok have done both short and long journeys no problem, the number of miles car can do has dropped slightly, car used to make a hunting sound but the dealerships pcm update helped resolve this.
Any ideas? Read more
hi guys I'm a newbie on here and getting desperate, bought a non turbo berlingo van in bridlington and drove it back to leeds about 60 miles, next day went 3 miles and sods law timing belt went, got another engine and box from a running van that had been hit up the rear, van master tech guys from a ford main dealer fitted new timing belt and the engine and for three weeks have been trying to get it going with no luck, they have had diagnostic machine on and shows no faults, they seem to have tied it down to no fuel, the fuel gets to the pump but is not coming through, there is a minor fault showing a problem with intermittent earth I think from ecu ( but don't quote me i am speaking from memory ) but they have by passed that and still same fault, we have the old fuel pump from othe engine but apparently to swap it you have to remove the engine again, so was trying to determine if there was anything else it could be,
any help would be very much appreciated Read more
I bought this car second hand two years ago and it's a lovely car to drive in the summer, but come winter.... Last winter it was a nightmare. It could take me thirty minutes to get it started, and I don't have thirty minutes to spare first thing in the morning. I bought a new battery last winter which didn't help at all so it went off to the garage but the mechanic said he couldn't find anything wrong with it so I spent a horrible three months dreading every early morning start. Once it got going it could sit outside my office in the cold weather for seven hours and then start first time, but first thing in the morning - never
This morning there was a frost - not severe, just around -1C - and it's damp - result? Ten minutes to get the damn car to fire. It sounds as though it's trying to fire, but I'm very aware that I will flood the engine if I keep trying, so I wait five minutes then try again, then another five minutes etc. It is driving me nuts, and if we get another winter like last winter I'm going to be back to sobbing over the steering wheel. Does anyone have any suggestions before I send this car off to the scrappy which would be a shame because - as I said - in the summer it's a perfect car to drive. Read more
I haven't run a petrol engine for many years but this sounds like a weak spark, I believe they have individual coil packs which may be faulty but we always used to improve starting by closing the plug gaps up a little.
Hi,
Looks like I need to get a new oil cooler for my 05 (2.0 TDI) Audi A3. Just looking online for one and finding it quite hard to find the best price, those I call looking at around £250 all in.... Read more
for an engine flush try
www.amazon.co.uk/Forte-Lubricants-Cooling-Coolant-...0
HI.I HAVE A POLO 2L HIGHLINE AND FROM YESTERDAY EXPERIENCING PROBLEMS WHEREBY THE ABS LIGHT AND THE POWER STEERING LIGHTS ARE STAYING AND BEEPING.WITH THIS THE STEERING TENDS TO GET TIGHT AFTER A WHILE.IF I SWITCH OF THE ENGINE THEN THE ODDOMETER AND CLOCK GOES TO ZERO.MY WINDOWS CANNOT GO UP UNLESS I HOLD ONTO THE ELECTRIC WINDOW BUTTON,NORMALLY BY PRESSING THE BUTTON ONCE AND THE WINDOW CLOSES.
PLEASE ADVISE. Read more
Stop shouting and drop the capitals. You need to find a Vag indendant and have the error codes read. Regards Peter
could anyone tell me how to adjust the carburettor on this monomotor tronic polo.
After visiting my usuall mechanic we found the emmisions a bit on the high side, but as this model is usually factory set, my mechanic wasnt sure how to adjust it or what to do to improve the matter.... Read more
With regard to the Lambda probe, do you have any warning lights illuminated? I don't know whether you'd get one on a '93 Polo, I'd guess maybe not as if I'm right it's essentially just a MK1 underneath? But if you have an engine management-type orange light showing on the dash, the 'check' light, it'll be the probe I'd think. I recently had that on my '51 plate Polo. Cost me £115 for the b****** probe. Ouch :-o
Hi All,
Any useful advice most welcome. My Veedub Polo, '51 plate 1.4 16v, has something of a shuddering issue when driving on the m-way. Once up to speeds of over about 60ish, running at about 3 - 4k rpm, I get a clear vibration through the steering and front wheels. It comes and goes, varying in severity but definitely worse under harder acceleration. I've previously had to replace the front rubbers due to terminal tearing of the inner side wall. So far, it's had new brake discs and pads front and rear, as well as several wheel balancing sessions and the front and rear wheels swapped around for good measure. All to no avail. I presume I'm looking at something potentially more serious, and probably expensive, so can anybody kindly suggest the obvious starting places? Buckled driveshaft or failed engine mountings were in my thoughts?... Read more
Shock absorbers?
Have a look at them for oily leaks or evidence of a previous leak and also check if they work by pushing down to compress the springs then letting go and watching what happens (Google will help you here) If you aren't confident doing this try your local friendly garage who should be able to do a basic check for you while you wait....
Hi,
Have a cracked front offside headlamp lens on fiesta mk 4 facelift.often known as mk5.... Read more
>> Can I just unclip these and remove the lense and put a new one on
First try and find a new lense, I doubt very much you'll be able to.
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