September 2011

Avant

I've hidden this thread, at least temporarily, because I need to check with HJ and his publisher whether we can allow the confidential information in the OP's link to appear in public.

I would have locked it anyway as, despite my repeated requests, several people were getting personally abusive, quite needlessly as usual. Read more

Avant

That thread stays hidden. HJ has confirmed, as I thought he would, that we can't publicise confidential information which was obtained without authority.

I'm sure all sensible Backroomers will understand our position.

track

Ive got a ford mondeo 53 reg 130bhp tdci. It wont start of its own accord, it needs a very quick sniff of ether to get going. Once running its fine, injectors and pump have been stripped and tested twice to find all is well. Its had different rail sensors etc but all the same. Can anyone confirm which sensor is required for the initial starting, crank or cam?

Also the ambient temp sensor is misreading reads 49C at 19C but pretty certain this wont affect start up as its not the intake air temp sensor, which reads correctly and is part of the AFM. Read more

shorty87

Hiya, I've got a 2000 plate Golf GTi 1.8 turbo (AUM engine code) and it's just had the cambelt and headgasket done on it, but now when I try and start it it sounds like this:

... Read more

RT

www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-pacific-14913412 Read more

jamie745

At least the metallic paint was reasonably priced. Thats what matters.

cairns842

Hi All,

I am new here, so hello to everyone :-) I have been considering buying a 2002 FORD Mondeo 2.0TDCi 130 Zetec S. I was hoping all you good folks could give me some advice on what this car is like, things to look out for when buying, common problems etc. I will be looking at doing around 80 miles a day so i have singled out this car as its quite good on fuel but it also gives me the little sportyness that i love.

The car i have seen has 64k on the clock and is £2400..

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

John Read more

Pablo202

Hi there,

We recently had the clutch go on our daughters Mini, four months after purchasing it. (not new). It was found that the clutch flywheel had cracked and the plate was worn. The garage changed the lot (we had to pay for the clutch but not the fly wheel. wear and tear).... Read more

oldroverboy

To all who are interested in high quality oils, if you register with opie oils as a member of an owners club or forum , there are some excellent discounts available. just add your user name, so worth joining a forum, it is usually free too!

... Read more

oldroverboy

ORB, don't encourage him! We've just about managed to stop him swearing.

Well, I could not possibly swear myself with a username like mine could I!...

Foston1

I have a 2004 XJ6 with 53657 miles on the clock. The car requires a year 7 service. The service book calls for the replacement of the inlet manifold gasket which means that no special service deals are available. Given the low mileage of the vehicle is the gasket replacement really necessary or is the replacement time rather than mileage related? Advice would be appreciated. Read more

elekie&a/c doctor

The only reason i can think of is that it will need a spark plug change and on many Jags this requires removal of inlet manifold.hth

expatsFL

AS I am coming back to the UK from the USA next month, looking to buy a 2/3 yr old car with great MPG and compact/mid sized 15k. Have looked at the 320d, a4, merc 220 cdi, golf tdi, passat tdi and mondeo tdci BUT My ? is....what toys are must haves to you. ie traction control ESP, electric everytthing, cruise etc etc. Just what are must haves. (Oh I should add I will not be doing more than 4k miles a year in the first 3 yrs then towing a caravan for 2 years!) Read more

expatsFL

Well thankyou JB.....I mean PP !

Uncle Fester

Hi,

I recently bought an R reg 306 D Turbo as a runaround, and was very impressed with the car until his week. I've had the usual Pug niggles - central locking opening itself due to dodgy wiring in the door pillars - currently bypassed by jumpering the passenger and driver's door wires together at the control box at the rear seat.. Starting the car the other morning, I got a few clicks from the starter solenoid, as though the battery was low, and later that day, the car refused to start after re-fuelling. Typical low battery symptoms - starter solenoid clicked, dash lights faded... but nothing else. Swapping the battery for a known good/charged one, I now get an angry buzzing when the ignition is turned on - traced to the preheater timer/relay, but nothing when the key is held to the start position! Even without the preheat (and I just noticed I get no glowplug light when turning the ignition on) the engine should at least crank, even if it won't fire easily... Disconnecting the 5-pin plug from the preheat control box stopped the buzzing, and also meant the dash warning lights came back to full brightness - they were dim when the unit was connected and buzzing... Rocking the car in gear didn't help, so I don't think the starter is jammed... It's a Phase 2 car, with IR 2 button plip & transponder chip in the key, new batteries fitted last week. Plip has lock/unlock and deadlock buttons - the car locks/unlocks fine with the remote, and the battery still powers lights, windows etc. (I've also swapped a second known good battery and tried that - no different. I didn't get a manual with the car - could someone explain what the immobilser does - i.e., inhibits the starter motor, stop plunger on the pump etc., and also what evidence I should look for that the car may be immobilised - STOP Light in dashboard, external lights etc...Thanks! Read more