March 2011
Hi, I'm in the middle of a de-coke of the Mrs's car. I've been told I need to bleed the hydraulic tappets once the head goes back on. Could anyone out there explain how to do this please? When I took off the cam cover, I discovered two of the head torx bolts had been rounded off some time in the past. I managed to drill them out and kept the swarf from going into the engine with lots of tissue in the oil chambers around the two bolts and a few well placed small magnets. Do I have to replace all of the head bolts or are they available seperately? Thanks in advance for any advise as it will be appreciated. Steve Read more
i have a service alert come up when i switch on .the dIsplay comes up with PLIP BATTERY.the alert goes off after a short time
any ideas please... Read more
Have you tried looking it up in your handbook?
I need to get a car that will comfortably seat 3 adults and 2 children in car seats. I don't really want to go down the 7 seater route - normally there are just the 4 of us but we need the extra seat for when my Mother in Law comes to stay.
I was hoping we could get an estate but I've been disappointed to find those we've looked at so far have no more room across the back seat than our current car (a W reg Fiat Punto).... Read more
A neighbour has three children and they have a Toyota Verso.
This has been intermittent and was gone for approx last 12 months. I was doing servicing myself. Car has 164k miles and timing belt was replaced along with water pump, full service, fuel filter etc at a garage recently.
Collected it and it ran fine for about two days then the gremlin returned. In the past this is what would happen.
Start from dead cold, no problem and if would pull really well. Stop and restart when hot and the engine instantly hits 2k rpm for a split second and drops back to normal idle but no power like it was in limp mode.
Previously this went away even though I changed air mass meter but it didn't fix the problem and eventually it went away.
This time however after the timing belt and fuel filter change the problem started again after about two days. This time though it never comes out of limp mode. So start from cold no instand revs just normal idle but no power. Start from hot 2k revs the normal idle and no power.
Back to garage on diagnostics. Solenoid valve on fuel pump showed issue so took it to a diesel fuel injection specialist. On diagnostics again, fuel solenoid came up, he put in a new air mass meter and swapped the solenoid with another one (not new) faults cleared in ecu. He thought it made an improvement and to be fair it did but it's still way down on power and still revs on starting when hot.
Any suggestions welcome, I will try and pressurised the fuel system tomorrow as per another thread to see if there is an air leak using the rag in tank neck and compressed air.
I know she is old and has big mileage but when on song it pulls really great and everything else is perfect so if it's a few hundred to fix it's cheap motoring for another year or two.
Thanks in advance. Read more
Found the problem. Faulty solenoid seal leaking fuel in at shutoff. New solenoid an all is well. Hopefully that will save someone the trouble in future.
I have had this car for > 4 years. The gear change has always been notchy but better when the gearbox has warmed up. This winter it has become difficult to engage reverse gear when the car is cold. I reported this at the last service but the garage at the last service but they considered the gear change was normal . it was probably warm when they tried it. Does the linkage need adjustment or the oil need changing? Any suggestions Read more
I had a similar problem. For reverse I started to put it in gear and then start the car. Worked a treat and saved me buying a new clutch.
Hi Everyone
I bought a car from a private dealer last Saturday. I paid for the car by cheque and collected it on Saturday. At this time the cheque hasn’t cleared my account.... Read more
Like some of the other contributors, what car is is, how old, how many miles, and if it is a dealer, send a letter special delivery with your concerns, and get trading standards involved, doesn't matter if trading from home or not. But, if you have bought for about £2000 or less you won,t have much comeback, see HJ and LucyBC's advice.
If I was at fault but the extent of the damage was not worth claiming on my insurance,am I entitled to ask for more than one estimate? Or instead, has the victim got a right to have the vehicle repaired at a garage of their choosing? Read more
The person concerned has a duty to mitigate costs. Thus the repair must be completed to an acceptable standard at the lowest price reasonably available. Usually when this comes up someone is demanding a "main dealer" repairs their car. Firstly it is extremely unlikely that the "main dealer" will repair the bodywork - they will send it out - and secondly they will load the price so it will be more expensive.
If the person fails to "mitigate costs" then you have a potential claim against the non-fault driver for the difference between which a repair could have been undertaken to an acceptable standard and the cost actually charged.
Hi there
I recently cleaned my LHM tank as fluid was all old, I have replaced with Hyraflush , Since change my power steering is on/off , I am not sure if this is air in the steering or low pressure!... Read more
When starting my van in cold conditons I turn the key and wait for glow plug indicator to go out. However the indicator does not flash up at all.
I give it about 10 seconds to start the engine - Nothing. However each and every time I try again the car starts, albeit with no glow plug indicator.... Read more
Browse
A decoke how quaint.
I dont think that you need to bleed hydraulic tappets....