January 2011
my father in law recently dropped hisremote control key fob in water.he dried it off,changed battery, but still not working.he has to open car manually.
do you have to reset or contact ford to get new key ?... Read more
I have a 2002 Focus Estate.
As with a lot of people on here and other sites my speedo is now more often off than on. When this occurs the lights dim and the stereos sound decreases. Along with this however I have a couple of other symptoms that may or may not be linked to the other symptoms. They are that the cd player works fine but the radio only displays the station name, no sound comes out of the speakers. Along with this, when I do a manual sweep of the front wipers they will stop part way across unless I hold the stick untill they get back to the bottom of the window.... Read more
Hi, I can fix all problems of your car. PM please.
Please
After selling car with 3 months ins to run,I`ve withdrawn my DD`s online and monitor account daily to make sure broker hasn`t applied to reinstate them.Also cancelled existing debit card and ordered a replacement for that account.... Read more
You are not buying monthly insurance. You have bought a years policy, but paying by installments.
They will chase you for these missing payments and will probably win. As this arrangement is a credit agreement, it can reflect badly in future when it goes on your credit file at Experion and the like. Now that is what you should be monitoring rather than your bank statement.
My car was fitted with 215/60/16 99 V summer tyres as standard.
I can only get winter tyres with a speed rating lower, that being a H.... Read more
Just had some info from Ford.
The EU Certificate of Conformity for my car states tyre of 215/60/16 94H....
I drive a 2005 petrol automatic - quite often when I "hang around" outside the car rather than walking away from the car after a journey I do smell something akin to the burning of rubber tyres.
Mentioned it at the last service but ofcourse they smelt nothing - its been like that for a couple of years- I sometimes believe its worse when I've driven uphill on very wet /muddy roads and think its something to do with the rear wheels kicking in - but honestly have never felt the kick of the rear wheels so not really sure about that.... Read more
stop messing about and being such a f4rt - are you going to help?
No, is my guess :(
Honest has often mentioned coil springs and how poor they are - apart from those fitted to those cars made in the Far East - Japan, korea etc
Does anyone including Honest know about Japanese brands made in the UK ( particularly interested in a CRV)... Read more
100 people? I doubt it. A tyre blowout shouldn't lead to an inevitable loss of control. Since tyre blowout is more likely at sustained high speed in which case you'd hope that the vehicle was travelling in a straight line...
Spring and suspension damage has become increasingly common. The trend for (heavy) diesel engines, combined with potmarked British roads are partially to blame. Consumers' childish preference for inappropriate, oversized wheels and low profile tyres exacerbate the problem. You don't tend to see many 17" 'rims' on small hatchback sized cars in car building countries...
Started a short journey with what sounded like a faint knocking from the drivers back wheel which soon turned into full metal on metal scraping noises, loud knocking and partial lock up. ABS light on. Not fun. Going to take it in this week but wanted to get an idea what specifically it might be and what sort of damage I could be looking at... Read more
Metal-on-metal worn brake shoes on drum or collapsed wheel bearing.Jack up and spin wheel by hand,you`ll soon know which.
How do u know if the garage where u get the service done has added the right oil to my car, my car has been serviced in october2010 and i have just checked the oil and it is black, is this right?
i also checked the oil cap and it appears to have yellowish mess in the oil cap.... Read more
No probs!
20 miles per week? No wonder the oil is having a hard time! Seriously, a diesel engine can take 10 miles just to get the oil up to operating temperature. They really aren't designed for short journeys, and tend to become troublesome if subjected to a constant diet of cold operation. If you don't anticipate a significant change in your usage, a petrol would make far more sense. If you only cover a few thousand miles a year, fuel economy is a moot point.
What is the ultimate recession beating used car on sale today?
Im thinking Vauxhall Vectra, Hyundai Santa Fe Mk 1, and most Skoda's.... Read more
Brother bought a good Merc C180 1999 vintage for little money (about £700). seems a good buy to me.
Hi, I have a 2002 Mazda 6 136bhp deisel sport. Its done 75000 miles with full service history and a recent cam belt change. The engine has recently failed on me and the car is now stuck on my driveway and i don't know what to do. Here is what has happened.
I have had the car over 6 months now. In all this time it seems to have been running ok but has been burning oil (about half a litre every 2-3 weeks). There has been no sign of water in the oil or the other way round. It wasn;t smoking other than on full throttle then black smoke could be seen behind the car.
The other night i was driving hime and it stalled at traffic lights. I restarted it which took a few cranks and drove on about 300 metres. I could now hear a reasonably loud knocking/tapping noise from the engine which increased in volume and speed when accelerating. I was looking to pull over at the next opportunity but it cut out when moving. I stopped and attempted to restart but it just turned over.
I looked at the dipstick and the oil was not registering on it, i could see none leaking from anywhere and the coolant level was fine with no signs of oil in it. I took off the oil filler cap and there was a small amount of white smoke coming from inside the engine. There was no gunk on the filler cap. I topped up the oil and it only needed about 1 and a half litres until full on the dipstick again.
I attempted starting the car again and it ran roughly, there was again a loud knocking/tapping from what appeared to be the top part of the engine. I could also see white smoke coming from under the plastic engine cover in the area of the top right side of the engine block (as looking from the front of the car).
I have since started the car with the plastic engine cover removed. It starts first time and runs but roughly and shakes a bit. As looking at the engine block from the front of the car i can see the following:
The two right hand metal discs on the top of the engine which house the injectors bounce up and down slightly in time with the knocking/tapping noise. Also below them on the front of the engine block are two connectors with metal pipes coming from them (possibly the exhaust gas pipes. Again as it is running these bounce in and out slightly. This only happens on the two right hand ones, the left hand side of the engine seems fine. White smoke also leaks from the above mentioned parts.
I have no idea what is wrong and the car is not drivable. Does anyone have a clue what these symptoms are?
Many thanks
Matt Read more
The common rail on this is mounted below the injector pipes, it has a pump mounted on the end of the common rail. The injector nozzles are seperate on the top of the engine and have the wires going to them. It is only these bits on the 3rd and 4th cylinders that move and gas leaks from so its just the right side of the engine affected.
Would the engine still run if the timing has slipped and would it just affect two cylinders?...
Browse
thanks for that mike,as far as i am aware his key still starts the car,i will get him to look in manual if he has one.
thanks again