August 2008

Andy_Sav

hello everyone.

ive just tried to google a problem ive got with my peugeot 406 and came across this website so i hop you guys can help me??

the problem ive got is the other night i took my keys out of the ignition and my front wipers carried on and the only way they can stop is for me to take the fuse for it out.

ive tried disconnecting the battery but when i reconnect it they just carry on and as i say the only way they stp is if i take the fuse out from below the stearing wheel.

ive also tried the fuses under the bonnet with noluck and ive looked under the carpet under the footwell because slomeone said they sometimes get et but they are bone dry.


any ideas please guys??


regards


Andy Read more

Steptoe

Sounds a complicated problem with no easy fix *but* what about disconnecting the wire to the wiper motor from the back of the fusebox and extending this, and a wire from the fusebox, to a switch mounted in a convenient position.

This will do the same job as removing the fuse and, though a bodge, seems a better option than scrapping the car. This fix doesn't, of course, preclude searching for the real fault

GazKaz

Firstly, apologies for the length of post. :-(

I have a 2001 1.8 Vauxhall Vectra LS, 85K on the clock, regularly serviced.

Around 8 weeks ago I noticed it was running quite cool and took an age to warm up, so I figured I'd replace the cheapest thing first, the temperature sender. Done this and no difference so I now figured the thermostat was stuck open.

Whilst waiting for stat to arrive, I had the cam-belt, water pump and rollers changed as it was due on the service schedule. Got car back and replaced stat (just stat and not the full stat housing, using QTH600K kit) and everything seemed fine for a couple of weeks, but then noticed car was getting very hot, up over 100 and into the red. The fan would come on eventually to cool it back down to around 95 (normally stays around 90, fan cuts in at around 92 and goes off at around 89). Took out replacement stat because now thought it was stuck closed and ran it for around 4 weeks with no stat. Car ran ok but still noticed it got rather hot sometimes. Installed another new stat again, ran ok for a day or so, but then went back to nearly overheating again. Even when the car was in motion, temp always seemed slightly higher than norm. So then suspected a partially blocked radiator. Replaced radiator for new, tested that everything was ok and that the fan cut in at the right temperature again, car ran ok for a couple of journeys, but went back to spurious temperature readings.

Went out on a 40 mile or so journey the day after replacing radiator, going out was perfect (temp always around 90) left car parked for about an hour, drove home and within 5 mins temp was sitting around 95 even when car was in motion! Got stuck in traffic later on in journey, then within a minute or so the temp went up to 100 then kept on going well into red, and came back down again just as quick! In all this time the car has never overheated to the point whereby it has cut out. As we arrived home the missus pulled on to the drive and temp was at 100. She switched off engine but I told her to re-start it straight away so I could check something, and when she did the temp reading went to 90!? Left car running for 5 mins or so and it behaved perfect, fan came on, cooled down, and fan switched off!

I'm now starting to think something electrical??!!

Again, sorry for length of post, but some help would be very much appreciated indeed!!

Cheers Read more

GazKaz

Hi mickeybo

Blimey! one of my old posts resurrected from the past!...

skylab

We have not long owned this vehicle and everything was going great, but silly us we had a small minor accident and damaged near side wing, headlight and corner of bumper. This has now been repaired, but since this we have an anti pollution falt indication on centre panel with what apears to be an emblem to the left and diagnostic emblem on main dash. when I start the car everything is a OK then I get a bleep, the read out goes off, but both emblems on centre and main dash stay on. Has anyone out there got any ideas. we have been reading this up on this site so we are including our RH number which seems to be neaded. The number is RHYF. Thanks for any help in anticipation
Skylab
Read more

skylab

I think the original was P1138 and the other one I cant remember the code but it was something to do with nearside ABS censor which was removed and cleaned and is now OK. Car going back again today and I will find out what the code is. It still comes up with anti pollution, has no revs and runs on when engine is switched off. I will try and find out about the fuel pressure reading.

Dynamic Dave


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Altea Ego

I like that a lot. As said it is very quick (it must prefetch some of the inline links to be that fast) Very clean interface. Only small drawback is that it failed to port some of my toolbar links over

Good Effort Google.

mattbod

Can anyone tell me which is the best engine for this little car? There seems to be virtually nothing in it regarding power and torque and I would imagne that the smaller engine is sweeter. What is this engine like? Is it long lived and does it go alright? I know it has twin spark ignition but it is only a single cam 8 valve isn't it. Does this mean it will be unwilling to rev?

Finally where are these made? I heard china and a new one seems expensive for a car made with cheap chinese labour and i am worried the build may be bad. A friend asked me about the car, the other vehicle he is looking at is the base model Fabia 1 1.2 with aircon. That is well built car but only has 55 bhp. Any ideas and feedback? Read more

Bill Payer

Perhaps you could explain why?

It's not snobbery because my house, like most other people's, is full of Chinese made stuff.
Assuming that the quality is the same why does it matter where the car is
made?

I don't have terribly strong feelings about this (otherwise I wouldn't have anything Chinese in the house) but I feel it's one thing buying low cost household and electrical items and quite another to buy much more valuable items such as cars, as they have a big effect on China's trade balance with the rest of the world. I'm not thrilled about the idea of helping the economy (any more than I have to) of a country with a questionable human rights record.

I do also have an issue with the pricing - we accept Chinese made stuff, often with some resignation, because it's cheap, or there's really no other choice. The price of many items is astonishing - £10 DVD players, for example. However Jazz isn't cheap - it looks like it'll be sold at the same (or even higher) price as European and Japanese made rival models, so the consumer isn't seeing any advantage in the car being made in a low labour cost environment.
Alby Back

I haven't had a car for 20 years that has used oil between services. However my recently aquired Signum 2.2 petrol has done a short 3k in my hands and the oil level has dropped to half way between the max and min marks on the dipstick. I want to top it up and I know it is 10/40 in there. Two questions.

1/ Do I need a specific type of oil, EG syth or semi syth ?

2/ Roughly how much should I pour in or is it just a case of trial and error until it reaches max ?

Thanks !

H Read more

John S

If it's like most Vauxhall handbooks it will contain very little on oil specifications. The full oil details are to be found in the Service Book.

JS

milney

Hello there, im thinking about buying a porsche cayenne and getting it LPG converted(if it isnt already).
I read an article in the news section about one going for £10200 in july.
Was that a one off or are prices at auction often below £14500 ?
If i have to get it converted then id like to pay £11500 tops really,do you think i stand much chance? thanks milney Read more

Nickdm

In Dubai in October, as the credit crunch was unfurling, used Cayennes were fetching more than the list price of new ones. People don't like to wait-list for 6 months, so pay more for a car available immediately. One columnist said that you'd earn more cash by ordering a new Cayenne than by putting your money in a savings account..!

PeterRed

I have been getting intermittent ABS warnings for the last couple of weeks while on holiday driving through France. It was making the wife very nervous despite my reassurances...... I haven't had a chance to plug in VAG-COM yet because my laptop is not working.

I get 3 beeps followed by "Brake Fault", "See Service Manual" and then "Stop"!! Accompanied by a yellow ABS light and a flashing brake warning light. It happens intermittently and usually clears itself - sometimes immediately, sometimes up to 40 miles later. It then might recur a couple of hours later.

There's plenty of brake fluid. I've tried unplugging the ABS wiring from its socket and refitting in case it's a loose connection. The fluid is bled every 3 years so should be OK. Help. Read more

PeterRed

Just an update - I removed the electronics portion of the ABS unit and sent it to BBA-Reman for repair for £128 incl VAT & delivery. All seems well now that I've refitted it. Fingers crossed that it won't recur - it was causing a lot of stress with 'er indoors........

doctorchris

I have just test driven the Panda Cross today and my impressions may be of interest.
For the uninitiated, this is the only Diesel-engined variant of the Panda 4x4 offered in the UK and it is highly specced but expensive at £11,999. This price is hard to justify compared with the 1.2 petrol-engined Climbing version on economic grounds, so is the extra performance worth it?
Bear in mind that the car I drove had only clocked up 11 miles and, as the only example of the car that the dealer had, I couldn't drive far or push the car hard. I did find it livelier than my petrol-engined Panda 4x4 and, apart from a tickover, quieter and smoother. However, I found it too similar to my present car to justify a change which I estimate would at present cost me at least £6,000 and probably nearer to £8,000.
I like the Dry Turquoise of my present car and find the colours offered for the Cross rather subdued, with the exception of Goa Orange which speaks for itself. Maybe if I was coming anew to the Panda 4x4 I would go for the Cross as I like its styling and higher spec.
I might change my mind if the car discounters come up with some good deals, if my present Panda 4x4 develops terminal illness or if I win Saturday's double rollover Lottery jackpot.
Has anyone else any impressions of this car to add? Read more

TeeCee

The Dacia Duster, when it finally arrives, will be one to watch too.

Already out here and does what it says on the tin. Rather nasty, but very cheap. I think I rather prefer the original version. That at least had ludicrous levels of "go anywhere" ruggedness and a certain agricultural charm about it....

Dillio

Hello guys and girls,

This is my first time posting on this forum, so apologies if I've got anything wrong.

I'm having a nightmare of a time with this Fiesta and I've lost faith in my mechanic (family friend so I can?t be too harsh on him).

Symptoms the car is showing:
1) The car idles at a higher rpm. About 960rpm according to the pcm reader. And this doesn?t problem doesn't disappear once the engine has heated up.
2) There is a small stutter when pulling away in first or second gear.
3) The throttle is sticking in-between gear changes i.e. coming out of gear at 3000rpm, the revs will stay there even if the car is put into neutral. The only way I've been able to get it down is using the clutch in a higher gear or waiting until it drops - but you look like an idiot if you wait for the latter.
4) This one is intermittent. Whilst travelling at any speed, the engine will stutter intermittent. The stutter causes the car to lose acceleration and power, such like if the turbo was broken on a diesel. Increasing the throttle only causes the stutter to get worse; eventually the power does come back. Or I have to put the car into neutral and use full throttle until full revs come back. It?s almost as if the engine was seizing or fuel mixture running way too rich; the latter of which explains why increasing the throttle worsens the problem!
5) On disconnecting the throttle position sensor, the idle drops 100 rpm to about 860 rpm, but symptom 2) becomes a lot more noticeable and if you come off the accelerator fast enough, the engine cuts out.

Solutions that have been tried:
1) Sprayed the intake with carb cleaner with little change
2) Fitted a new Idle Control Value with no change
3) Fitted a new Throttle Position Sensor with no change

Any ideas on what it could be?? Thanks in advance :)

Regards,
Dil Read more

stan laurel

hi guys, new member here..

please could you let me know if this issue was resolved?, as im having the exact same trouble.

i have no access to a scanner or any diag tools, and as i'm on the skint side, need to keep costs down to a minimum.

my problems are pretty much as described by the OP.....wildly varying idle revs, loss of power when setting off (unless i boot it...and end up wheel spinning away), and also "jumpiness" or juddering when im cruising in 3rd, 4th and 5th...unless i again increase the revs, which obviously makes me go faster than i should be doing. THis happens when the engines cold and hot.

im afraid that my mechanical knowledge is minimal, so please talk to me as though im stupid. :)


thanks in advance.