August 2008
Hi all new to this, i have a vectra 2.0 petrol 1999 t reg,
Having some problems ecu light on all the time idle poor and only revving to 4500rpm, have done the paper clip trick and have a number of codes, camshaft sensor, intake air temp sensor and Hego oxygen sensor can anyone advice on this as i am having a right nightmare with it. Read more
2001 Passat estate 130TDI
I've just managed to blow a fuse (or two) while repairing/checking a trailer light board. I found and successfully replaced the 5A tail light fuse in panel at RH edge of dashboard but cannot find a fuse for the rear fog lights and brake lights. They are not listed on the card in the fuse panel. Does anyone know if there is a second fusebox and if so where is it? I read another post about the brake light circuit being linked to the engine management circuit - is this a clue?
Thanks Read more
Well I think my eyesight must be on the way out. I just checked all the fuses again and one that looked good had in fact blown. So could have saved myself hours. Anyway all lights on car and trailer board now working. Hurrah!
Thanks again.
Hope you can shed some light on this one... When in 'cold mode' she runs fine with plenty of power and torque plus a smooth sounding engine. As soon as things warm up the engine becomes sluggish and noisy, under load sounding like an old sewing machine!. It'll still reach a good clip but takes sooo long to get there :-(.... This only started a week or so ago. Any ideas?
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After all this time, i finally got round to sorting this out!...
Stripped out the EGR valve and manifold pipe, both were clogged really badly - the egr was almost completely bunged up and the pipe was restricted to at least HALF its normal diameter. The swirl actuator was sticky. Slight panic after reassembly, no compression while the loosened carbon deposits worked through. She's now at 145k miles and running sweet.
help me, my golf has no reverse lights, which makes it difficult to reverse out of shopping car park spaces, and dont know where the switch is located to change it......pls help Read more
From your replies golf3driver i think you should take your car to an auto-electrician.
Hi all,
I've re-installed the software on my 607 and I'm back to the screen giving me the odd message you see in the title: "Go into Energy Saving Mode" Then the screen locks itself up.
Could this be a loose connection? Maybe the car thinks the ignition is off, therefore needs to turn the screen in to energy saving mode?
Or is the battery on it's way out?
There are no other probs with the car except the parking sensors which do not work.
Any suggestions?
cheers
Tris Read more
After a week of working I've had a week of it not working !!
Turning itself off, then on, then off. Then staying on for 1 minute, then locking the screen up. Sometimes instead of locking up it turns itself off completed until the car is restarted. Then the cycle starts again.
It's a fricking nightmare to be honest.
Has anyone got any ideas on this??
Tris
We currently have a tiny little car which is about 15 years old. It's about to drop and with a little newborn we need something a bit larger.
We've been thinking about what we'd like and although perhaps more practical, we don't want an estate. Neither myself nor my wife want one so we've thought that the bets best option would be a nice compact SAV like the X3. We live in London but go away regularly, Cornwall, New Forrest etc.
We come down to two cars, the BMW X3 or the VW Tiguan. We've driven both. The Tiguan is certainly more flashy but the X3 is bigger and the engine is nicer. However there's nothing swaying us towards either. The X3 could be purchased second hand at about £18k. If we go for the Tiguan we'd probably buy it new for about £23k as the used prices are still above £20k.
Does anyone have any thoughts about either car? Any good reasons why we should choose one over another? Any advice, thoughts or help would be much appreciated! Read more
Funnily enough comments like those make replacing our largish pick up with a bigger one
more likely..;)
Nothing at all wrong with SUV's they've got many good points.
A man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest.
The best thing about 4x4s is when we get some snow around my way, there's always a rash of invincible 4x4s stuffed in to trees or hanging out of hedges and ditches. Gives the rest of us a right good laugh.
Hi, some words of advice from the experts please.
We have a 1989 Mazda MX5 Japanese import which has a Texalarm ATX16 alarm/immobiliser fitted. It is an aftermarket item rather than an original fitment judging by the wiring
This device seems to have failed leading to us not being able to start the car at all, even if we just reconnect the battery the alarm goes off. What happened was that the alarm went off and would not respond to the fob, so I disconnected the battery to shut the thing up. Now if I reconnect the battery the alarm sounds
So currently the vehicle is on our drive with the multiplug disconnected from the alarm/immobiliser module, a dead, unusable car.
Question is how do I remove it from the car? If the device is likely to render the car unusable when it feels like it we would prefer not to have it.
I am a resonably competent amateur but I am concerend that if I simply follow all the wires, disconnect them and remove the unit will I then have to reconnect any wires which were separated when the device was fitted?
Any words of wisdom will be welcome, thanks in advance!
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Thanks for the suggestion, I hadn't thought of that as we are happy to have the the car with no alarm or immobilser because we will not likely be leaving it anywhere where it will be vulnerable to attention from undesirable people.
As I said I am capable and happy to do the removal myself, the question is whether or not I need to do more than just remove this aftermarket unit.
For example when these units are fitted is any of the original wiring cut so that I will have to rejoin it?
Thanks for your help,
Cheers,
Tony
Yesterday I filled up at a fuel station that I only visit occasionally. Right from the start the pump kept cutting out prematurely no matter how gently I pressed the trigger or how much I withdrew the nozzle. The attendant said it was due partly to the speed of their pumps, but was due mainly to a combination of my car model and my technique. He said that all I had to do was rotate the nozzle in the direction of the back of the car and that this would prevent the pump cutting out prematurely. I said I would try it the next time. He even offered to give me a demonstration the next time I went there so he must have been very confident he wouldn't end up with egg on his face. We shall see! Read more
"I used to like the old pumps you could sort of clip in the on
position and let go."
I'm not saying I'm old but .......... I used to like the old pumps with a proper analogue dial where the attendant turned a handle to dispense the fuel, and you could chat with him while he was doing it! tinyurl.com/6zdoh8
Hello everyone,the battery light came on whilst driving to work the other day.We managed to arrive at our destination & ran a voltmeter across the battery descovering the alternator/battery was not taking a charge.We decieded to fit an alternator,alas its still not charging!.I've checked all the relative connections/earth straps etc for corrosion/security all okay the only thing thats bothering me is the light purple wire that runs on to a plug on the alternator.I traced this wire back to the fuse-box thats located alongside the battery,checked for continuity(ok).The wire is completely dead,does this charging circuit require a 12volt feed from the fuse box to excite the alternator? Read more
The earth strap stud on the clutch housing is favourite for a bad earth.
Measure the voltage difference between the alternator casing and the battery negative and the voltage diff between the output bolt and the battery pos.
How many small wires go to the alt? The wires are numbered, not colour coded, have a look for the wire number printed on it.
What is the battery light doing now?
Hi Guys,
I've got a 03 KA (bought new) and in the last few months it's developed a rattling sound on the passenger side, particularly at low revs. Above 40MPH theres no noise at all but below this the rattles are quite bad.
There was a problem with the struts and this cured some creaks at very low revs but the rattle persists. It's a rattle along with a shaking type of sound. It's hard to describe.
Any ideas what it could be?
Cheers
Chris Read more
My 306 has a nasty rattle from the catalytic converter vibrating at low revs / speeds. It's worth looking under the chassis to check if you find yourself with a similar problem.
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Any one with any advice would be much appriated.