August 2008
I recently topped the engine oil in my car (MB.E240--2.6V6) with a synthetic oil (Tesco Make). The following day After driving for about 3 miles as I was about to exit a junction I put my foot down to accelerate and out comes a big bellow of smoke. I immediately pulled over and drove the car back home after a come of times running the engine the smoking ceased. The car runs perfectly in Idle and normal running speed. I spoke to a mechanic friend who initially thought that I might have put too much oil. However on inspection he found that the levels was adequate. The problem only seem to occur when I put my foot down to accelerate hard; the engine warning light never comes up and I am not keep to take the car to Mercedes for an expensive diagnosis for something that might be a small problem. I have had the car from new and it has only got 44000 miles on the clock and had never given me problems. It has always been serviced at Mercedes. I would be happy to hear from anyone who had experienced similar problem. The car as I said runs perfectly okay and i continue to use it everyday to work but the problem only occurs when I put the foot down.
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Remote key fobs not working, but the keys do. Why does alarm go off when car is opened with key? Read more
And then you find you left the keys in the ignition.
I have lost the programming for my remote key when I changed the battery.
I have tried the suggested method of reprogramming by turning the ignition from position 0 to II four times and hear the first bong. However when I press the buttons on the key I dont hear the second bong confirming the reprogramming and the fob still does not work. Any ideas, am I missing something?
The key will still unlock the car manually and will start the engine. It is the three button ford key with unlock, lock and boot buttons on it.
Thanks! Read more
Hi I'm sorry with this being an old thread but nik_m did you find a solution to this? I know what you mean with the bong happening but the LED won't stay on as my focus is the same position. Seems like it must be in programming mode with the bong but it just wont reprogramme my key. Really frustrating as I have been googling for answers for a while now, really missing the remote locking.
(Thread headline changed so Backroomers know what it's about without having to enter the thread)
Much as I loath it, I have started to cycle places - Im taking my car for a service/MOT later and im cycling the 5 miles home. I can see it will become increasingly important to be 'bike fit' now ( which Im not ) so im biting the bullet early and getting into shape so I can stop using the car. I used to be able to cycle 40 miles 8 years ago but have since lost the fitness.
My misses is even getting a bike so we can cycle to the supermarket eventually ( not the one we like but the nearest one - its more expensive but still cheaper than buying the extra fuel ).
We got fed up bouncing along the overdraft point these last couple of months despite both of us working and never leaving the house unless going to work or to buy food.
Turns out that there are some good shortcuts atleast when on a bike! Read more
Humph, don't you know anything about our slippery friends?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snail
If a cruise ship can be extended by cut & shut why there is so much shouting if a car is repaired in that way?
The 'cut-and-shut' cruise ship that was sliced in half to add more rooms
/tinyurl.com/56ssqh
Link to the Daily Mail made non-clickable in accordance with the site policies on links to potentially rival publications. Read more
>> A ship has nothing relative to its size exterting similar >> forces upon it. Apart from the waves of course..... IIRC the highest storm waves ever, reliably, recorded are over 100ft from peak to trough.
>>
Many large ships, tankers, bulk carriers and container ships suffer from structural cracking and some have been lost at sea due to failure, often just forward of the bridge.
...
Hello
The day after tomorrow, I've booked my car in fora MOT.
Had the car since new since Sept 2003, so my third MOT.
My question is, can vat be added to the MOT cost which is about £50 for a family saloon?
I'm certain the MB carry out the MOT on their site but just looked at my 2 previous MOT's and vat has been added.
Thanks. Read more
I took one of our cars to the local garage yesterday. MoT was done and he charged £25, its been this price for about the last three years IIRC. There's a couple of others also charge £25. You book a time and he does it while you wait, you get a free retest if returned within 7 days. The local Peugeot dealer take their cars there, probably charging their customers the full VOSA £53 (plus VAT?).
i have looked at the engine and 2 of the injector pipes arent pumping any diesel to the injectors i have been told if the pump has packed up it wouldnt pump to all any of them the engine turns over but theres a load clickin noise and it will not start any help plz thanx in adavance Read more
hi there my car just done the some today did u find out what it was as i can not find what it is same as u can u help
Straightforward question, If I put my car in for an M.O.T one month early and it fails, can I still drive it for the one month originally remaining or does the failure override the original 12 months? Read more
Yes, but there is a box for the tester to record anything that in his opinion renders the vehicle unsafe to drive. You'd be on doubly unsafe ground if it caused an accident during your month's respite.
I always take mine in a month early for the reasons given by others.
Some years ago the car failed on bulging brake hose under pressure, slightly mismatched headlight colour, and a worn bottom ball joint.
The brake hose got the caution box ticked. I did drive home, cautiously obviously, past the dealers to pick up a new hose, and fixed it that evening. The ball joint took a couple of days to order, and I replaced it at the next convenient weekend.
With commonsense one can I think safely use the flexibility provided by the one month rule.
hello everyone.
ive just tried to google a problem ive got with my peugeot 406 and came across this website so i hop you guys can help me??
the problem ive got is the other night i took my keys out of the ignition and my front wipers carried on and the only way they can stop is for me to take the fuse for it out.
ive tried disconnecting the battery but when i reconnect it they just carry on and as i say the only way they stp is if i take the fuse out from below the stearing wheel.
ive also tried the fuses under the bonnet with noluck and ive looked under the carpet under the footwell because slomeone said they sometimes get et but they are bone dry.
any ideas please guys??
regards
Andy Read more
Sounds a complicated problem with no easy fix *but* what about disconnecting the wire to the wiper motor from the back of the fusebox and extending this, and a wire from the fusebox, to a switch mounted in a convenient position.
This will do the same job as removing the fuse and, though a bodge, seems a better option than scrapping the car. This fix doesn't, of course, preclude searching for the real fault
Firstly, apologies for the length of post. :-(
I have a 2001 1.8 Vauxhall Vectra LS, 85K on the clock, regularly serviced.
Around 8 weeks ago I noticed it was running quite cool and took an age to warm up, so I figured I'd replace the cheapest thing first, the temperature sender. Done this and no difference so I now figured the thermostat was stuck open.
Whilst waiting for stat to arrive, I had the cam-belt, water pump and rollers changed as it was due on the service schedule. Got car back and replaced stat (just stat and not the full stat housing, using QTH600K kit) and everything seemed fine for a couple of weeks, but then noticed car was getting very hot, up over 100 and into the red. The fan would come on eventually to cool it back down to around 95 (normally stays around 90, fan cuts in at around 92 and goes off at around 89). Took out replacement stat because now thought it was stuck closed and ran it for around 4 weeks with no stat. Car ran ok but still noticed it got rather hot sometimes. Installed another new stat again, ran ok for a day or so, but then went back to nearly overheating again. Even when the car was in motion, temp always seemed slightly higher than norm. So then suspected a partially blocked radiator. Replaced radiator for new, tested that everything was ok and that the fan cut in at the right temperature again, car ran ok for a couple of journeys, but went back to spurious temperature readings.
Went out on a 40 mile or so journey the day after replacing radiator, going out was perfect (temp always around 90) left car parked for about an hour, drove home and within 5 mins temp was sitting around 95 even when car was in motion! Got stuck in traffic later on in journey, then within a minute or so the temp went up to 100 then kept on going well into red, and came back down again just as quick! In all this time the car has never overheated to the point whereby it has cut out. As we arrived home the missus pulled on to the drive and temp was at 100. She switched off engine but I told her to re-start it straight away so I could check something, and when she did the temp reading went to 90!? Left car running for 5 mins or so and it behaved perfect, fan came on, cooled down, and fan switched off!
I'm now starting to think something electrical??!!
Again, sorry for length of post, but some help would be very much appreciated indeed!!
Cheers Read more
Hi mickeybo
Blimey! one of my old posts resurrected from the past!...
Browse
Mines an E 240 1999 reg with the 2.4 petrol engine. Started doing the same as yours last week with kick down/heavey acceleration. Had it looked at by a knowledgible chum who thinks it's to do with presure build up due to a blocked/clogged breather system. Not fixed yet, any luck with yours?
SQ