August 2008
Hello,
My VW Golf Driver 1.8 has occasionally had this problem which is now constant, whereby the engine would fire up on ignition, then a second later die. I try repeatedly to start, the car and with no luck. Yet, some days it just works. Really puzzling. Spoke to garage which advised me to get a new key cut as it could be faulty. I did this, yet the problem continues with old and new key. Is it the receiver or the immobiliser? Somehow not recognising the key? Or is it faulty wiring somewhere, a fuse?
Also when the car has a good day, and fires up it's absolutely perfect. Doesn't splutter or anything.
Cheers for any help!
Gareth Read more
hi
i have a p reg corsa 1200cc engine that wont start. on turning the ignition on the engine management light starts to flash. the engine will turn over but not start. i have been told this is the imobalizer but there in no imobalizer on this, its pre imobalizer and there is no wiring for the sensor on the ignition. i can spray starter fluid in the carb and the engine will run momentarily so i no its not the ignition side of things. i have checked the fuel pump thats fine
any ideas ?
thanks alan Read more
Hi did you get ur opel corsa starting?
if u did what was the problem and was info any help?...
I am in the midst of a "Minimum Fuel Additive Level" situation now and the dealer's dignostic report has many faults including the Fuel Cap Sensor and Fuel Additive ECU. Since there are so many faults I suspect a wiring / connector problem.
Can anyone tell me where the Additive ECU is located? I would like to check out the connector and also check the fuel cap sensor at that end of cable.
Also is it OK to disconnect and reconnect? Could this reset it or scramble it? It must be live with the ignition switched off since it can sense the fuel cap sensor has been used when filling up, at which time the ignition is usually switched off. Read more
Very easy once you know take the two pipes off the tank then with the kit there is a purple adapter push this into the biggest pipe NOT THE TANK the all you have to do is connect the plastic hose that came with the kit to the conecter and the hose to the bottle that holds the fluid and in 2 mins job done easy but it took us 2 hours to work it out as we were conecting pipes to the connections on the tank but car has to go to main dealer to get the computer reset before it will start to work again if the tank was run on empty the cost to us for this was £50
Ihave a 307 2.0 HDI 110 BHP, with the DW10ATED engine. Coming home last night on the motorway, the car lost power then cut out. Opened the bonnet, and the top hose coming off the intercooler to the inlet manifold intake was collapsing/being sucked in and restricting the airflow, thus stopping the engine. (like a vacuum)Removed the pipe from the intercooler which allowed me to get off the motorway. On the way off the motorway, a diesel filter blocked message came up. At the services, opened the drain on the diesel filter (because of the message) and refilled, reconnected top intercooler hose and seemed ok. Set off again, then 2 mins later, an almighty bang. Checked under bonnet and found the bottom hose of the intercooler has exploded, popped like a balloon..
any ideas anyone?
Read more
Right. Took my car to get the counters reset for the diesel additive. All the fault codes were cleared, if any, counters rest etc. Still comes up saying'diesel additive minimum level'. Have checked the fuel cap, both magnets are there, how do i check the sensor in the fuel neck? Is there any readings or tests i can do on the sensor?
The tool used for the codes is a snap on solus. At one point in the data section it was actually saying there was no fuel cap fitted, but it was. Does this mean the sensor was faulty? Or the cap? Does a new cap come with magnets? Any help would be appreciated.
Engine code Y17DTL
Yesterday, car suddenly lost what grunt it had and is now quite hesitant/underpowered and sometimes gives out a lot of grey smoke.
I tried to invoke the EML, which I succeeded only at 3500 rpm. I don't know what it says yet as the scanner is in the car but the software's at home! Only a cheap code reader one so don't get too excited yet about live data.
It barely made 70mph on the dual carriageway with my foot flat to the floor.
I can hear the turbo winding down when turning off and no whining noises presented from it previously. The car idles fine with no cutting out or mis-fire.
My initial guess is EGR, with what looks like a vacuum-operated valve connected via a solenoid. Problem is it's all hard-plumbed into the turbo tract so I can't easily block off the pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Any suggestions much appreciated. Read more
GF's neighbour's cats have all been inherited by them, so I don't think it's that.
It's white (now black) cotton-like fluff which came out in clumps at first so I assumed was part of the cat, but then I saw it stuck to the face of the monolith. Odd.
Hi Everybody,
I have owned a 53 plate Vauxhall Corsa 1.2 Design since new. I have only covered 29k miles in the car. All of the following problems have occured since ive had the car:
Handbrake Cable snapped.
Had to replace gear linkage
Had to replace steering rack
Had to replace camshaft sensor (I think it was that sensor)
Car was misfiring/searching at low revs
My question is have I been unlucky? Or is this the norm to have all these things go wrong within the first 30k miles!!
I'm half considering replacing the car before something else goes wrong.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Read more
norsa part should kill bank balance i wish mines a 55 reg 1.2 sxi and ive got to find a grand because my camshaft has snapped at 31k miles i think vaux are rubbish and when mines fixed its going and i wont touch them again
We just bought a car from the main dealer, it is nearly 3 years old. We are planning to extend the warranty in a few months when the manufactures' one runs out. We were told that they had done all the services etc. When we got the documentation we noticed that the service interval is every 12m/18k but the first service wasn't carried out for another 6 months 18m/15k. The 2nd service was 26m/26k.
I always thought it was important to carry out the first service on time. Should we worry? Read more
Thank you to everyone who replied. The mystery of the cam belt was explained by the service manager as something akin to a recall. Seems one of the top pulleys made a horrid noise on starting and Renault decided to change the pulley and cam belt for customer who complained. I haven't seen anything about this anywhere else though.
Still in discussion about the warranty. The warranties person said that being a main dealer there wouldn't be any problems.
my note has started to make squeaking sound,it could be coming from the timing chain,it comes and goes mostly when its damp.what could b causing this? Read more
On the 1.6 Qashqais they have changed the composition of the aux belt because of this. I'm waiting to have a new one fitted as mine is squawking too.
Morning All,
We have a 2001 VW Beetle 2.0 petrol, which has covered 88,000 miles. On the way home from work last night, the engine emissions warning lamp (I think it also doubles as an engine management warning lamp) flashed up. This was only about two miles from home and there was no apparent change in the performance of the car, so I carried on home. Tried turning off and on again, but the light remains.
I've checked the connection to any sort of sensor that I can see under the bonnet and all appear to be in order. Checked air filter and this is free of blockages. Have disconnected and reconnected the air flow meter, both with engine running and when switched off and light remains on. Fluid levels all OK and having done a quick forum search, both rear brake lights are working, as a blown brake light caused the emissions warning lamp to show on someone elses car with the same engine. No funny eggy smells and the car drives normally and isn't in any sort of limp home mode. Too soon to say whether fuel consumption has increased.
The obvious next step is to take it in for the codes to be read, but I just wondered whether anybody could suggest any other basic checks that I can carry out. The light did come on some while ago (c. 40k miles) after VW had installed new piston rings (under warranty) to 'cure' high oil consumption (it didn't cure it at all!). On that occasion they took the car in for 15 minutes and, I believe, did something with the lambda sensor. Could be the same again I guess... Would a fault with the air mass flow meter put it into limp home mode?
Thanks for your help. David Read more
Steve,
If both lamps have failed, including a high level lamp if fitted, then the chances are the brake lamp switch requires replacing. A very common failure on vw's.
I have a Renault Laguna 1.9dti which will not start on the key but will go when tow started.
The engine turns over as normal but wont fire on the key. Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be. Any help greatfully appreciated.
Regards Chris.
slt Read more
had same problem-won't start even hot,but starts easily with bump start; a Renault mechanic told me of the starter "flux" but as the starter was only 6 months old,i was doubtful.as an experiment ,i isolated the engine management system from the main battery,using a 12 volt bike battery for the ecU-she fired up first time!i'm now testing a "smoothing system" using a coil of thick wire & a very large value capacitor to feed the ecU-first results look promising'whilst i try to convince the starter supplier to exchange under guarantee!! what fun!
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Dear garethewq,
Have just read you`r post about golf 3 1.8 starting then cutting straight out,...