I am in the midst of a "Minimum Fuel Additive Level" situation now and the dealer's dignostic report has many faults including the Fuel Cap Sensor and Fuel Additive ECU. Since there are so many faults I suspect a wiring / connector problem.
Can anyone tell me where the Additive ECU is located? I would like to check out the connector and also check the fuel cap sensor at that end of cable.
Also is it OK to disconnect and reconnect? Could this reset it or scramble it? It must be live with the ignition switched off since it can sense the fuel cap sensor has been used when filling up, at which time the ignition is usually switched off.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 30/08/2008 at 14:27
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Can't recall ever looking for one on an 807; but under the passenger's seat is common on other Pugs. 807s are not easy things to find anything on - took me 30 mins to find the bonnet release. [The handbook is so wrong!]
Multiple faults are normal for an additive system and if you've got an ECU code, it'll mean it.
The ECU will stay powered for about 20 minutes after any activity on the car - anything.
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Thanks Screwloose for the input.
I got more details today of the diagnostic printout, I couldn't get a copy but I took some notes.
Car mileage 44000
Engine ECU
EDC15C2
Permanent Fault Additive Quantity Additive ECU
Permanent Fault Additive Quantity Max Additive in PEF reached
Permanent Fault Additive Quantity Additive Minimum level wait
Remote intermittent Fault Additive System Fuel Gauge fault
"Max additive in PEF reached" and "Additive Minimum level wait" surely go hand in hand since if the additive has been used up, the system will have calculated that the max additive in PEF has been reached. As far as I know there is no additive sensor in the PEF, just the differential pressure sensor to detect clogging.
From reading various posts I understand that the additive would normally need topping up around 50K miles and the PEF needs replacing at 80K miles so it is possible the minimum additive level has been reached but the PEF should be OK.
What I cannot comprehend is so many parts of this additive system located in different places on the vehicle deciding to pack in at the same time. An Additive ECU which is faulty could maybe cause some of these error to be false.
What do you think based on the diagnostic report?
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weematt
Translations can be a pain with FAP codes. The first one [P1442?] is self-explanatory; the second one doesn't make any sense and I've never seen a code anything like it; the third one [P1446?] is common and should indeed read "reached;" the fourth is a repeated BSI code. [Although this one DOES have an additive tank level sensor - so....?]
I don't think that you have multiple failures; just loads of codes. Definitely replace the ECU [many now do as a routine time-saver] refill, reset and see...
The system is such a nonsense, the additive life is very unpredictable. 50K may be typical - that's "may...." The FAP can block at any mileage and refuse to regenerate - some need changing at even sub-20K. As a general rule; by the time the additive's gone, it's time for a new FAP too.
It's such a pain to get the system back up and running that it's not worth partial repairs. Sort everything at one go and then, when you've finally got it re-set; it'll be done for a good while. Otherwise....
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Thanks once more Screwloose for your opinion.
I may opt to try another dealer to see how they would tackle it.
The fuel cap sensor was already replaced by the same dealer, within the warranty period about 18 months ago (circa 30K miles), based on the same display warning. I don't remember any hint of replacing multiple components or topping up additives at that time but the dealer had to justify it to Peugeot not the customer at that time.
Back to the fault codes. Can you tell me what remote in "remote intermittent fault" means? This was the one about the Additive System Fuel Gauge Fault.
thanks weematt
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weematt
"Remote" usually means that the code originates in another, networked, ECU and has been sent to all relevant systems for info.
Check the BSI and the dashpod and you'll find the source.
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Screwloose,
Thanks once more for input. Pardon my ignorance but what is a dashpod?
How would I check the BSI (Built-in System Interface?) and dashpod for the source.
Matt
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Instrument pod. Both it and the BSI should be readable for codes and data.
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I got the appropriate fluid and topped up the additive tank. Its about a half hour job and was not difficult. It took just about 2.5 litres.
I also calculated approximately how much additive fluid per tank of diesel and manually added some when I filled the car. This should keep the particulate filter happy till I get this problem solved.
Got an independant auto electrics guy to attempt a reset and he got one fault - Diesel additive level sensor faulty. He reckons this is genuine and this would mean changing the additive tank since the sensor is integrated.
I decided to check the sensor and it's connections. There is a multi way connector on the additive tank but only two wires are connected. When I check across the disconnected sensor pins it reads as a short circuit (< 1 ohm). There is a pulsating voltage across the connector terminals when the sensor is disconnected so I believe the wiring is intact.
Strangely I have read elsewhere that (for a Peugeot307 / 406 the empty tank sensor resistance is > 1.8Kohms. If this applies to the 807 then my <1 ohm reading would possibly be the correct value for the filled tank. So is the sensor dud? Is the sensor a float switch or is it a couple of electrodes in the fluid?
Could it be that a certain reset process has to be observed to clear the sensor error?
My next step. I have disconnected the sensor connector and connected a 1 Kohm resistor across the connector terminals and I am going to get the electrics guy to try again. My theory is that an open circuit would be read as a fault and if in my 807 a low value equals faulty then 1 Kohm may simulate a valid sensor.
Any ideas out there?
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My experiment with the dummy sensor was inconclusive so I gave in and took the car to another Peugeot dealership. A faulty additive ECU was diagnosed and when this was replaced the fault message cleared.
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Just started getting the message 'diesel additive minimum level' and after reading various other posts I am assuming I need to top up tank, any clues as to where I might locate said item and is there any weird proceedure that needs to be followed
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You'll need someone with the right equipment to reset the additive ECU's counter to tell it that it's been refilled or it won't restart dosing.
You'll also need a re-con FAP - if it hasn't been done already - and possibly a new pressure sensor if the FAP has blocked.
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What is an Additive ECU? I've never heard of one!
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The tank dosing pump is controlled by a separate ECU. It has sensors of it's own - including the level - and is CAN-linked into both the BSI and the PCM.
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Very easy once you know take the two pipes off the tank then with the kit there is a purple adapter push this into the biggest pipe NOT THE TANK the all you have to do is connect the plastic hose that came with the kit to the conecter and the hose to the bottle that holds the fluid and in 2 mins job done easy but it took us 2 hours to work it out as we were conecting pipes to the connections on the tank but car has to go to main dealer to get the computer reset before it will start to work again if the tank was run on empty the cost to us for this was £50
Edited by the oiler on 01/03/2009 at 00:06
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