August 2008

Max_307HDi

Got a 307 2002 HDi 110 5 - door,

only prob is the turbo is not working you can hear it when the you rev the engine
and shout the engine off quick can hear it spinning down, there no pressure from the big intercooler pipe from the top as a local guy told me you can feel the intercooler pipe build pressure and mine has none, could this be the wastgate has stuck open? am lost

was told to check the intercooler top pipe
img374.imageshack.us/img374/4610/307pipepn2.jpg

slt Read more

FP

AFAIK, there are no e-mail notifications of additions to a thread or replies to a post on this forum, and no facility for IM or PM.

Old threads here tend to just gather dust; occasionally someone tries to resurrect them for some reason, but in many cases the posters have long ago moved on....

Jes

Hi,

Looking at the Focus Diesel range, I noticed they do a DPF and non-DPF version of the same engine. From what I can see there is no difference in the technical spec, so why do they have the two versions?

My reason for looking/asking is that I have a Zafira 1.9CDTI and am fed up to the back teeth with damm DPF problems!

Cheers,
John Read more

Liviu

I am replying very late but no 1.8 TDCi has DPF. DPF or C-DPF are only on 1.6 2.0 TDCi.

oldgit

My car (in December) will be four years old and I have just booked it in for its second variable service, although the onboard 'computer' says about another 100 days but I don't want it going into the garage in the cold December months.
However the main dealers have quoted me a grand £360 for the service and should I want/need the cambelt replaced (every four years/40k miles, Iwas told) then that would be another £500 on top!
I have decided to eschew the latter, as I have only done 22k miles and intend to get rid of the car early next year as soon as the new MK6 can be ordered.
Either way, no doubt they'll adjust the p/ex price based on what they have to do to market my car.

I hope that the new range of engines, including my preferred 1.4 TSI engine, have used better quality components, this time, for both the cambelt and its tensioner.
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unthrottled

Swirl in a 4V engine? You get tumble, but not swirl. No, this is why valve deactivation or twin port has to be applied to promote swirl and boost air velocity at low engine speeds. Trouble is that you need an extra cam shaft + twice twice as many valves, then you apply additional complexity to effectively return the engine to a 2V head!

A single exhaust valve is beneficial too. Less heat transfer to the head, quicker cat light off times, faster turbo spooling....

jenrich

Hello all

After getting the "DIESEL ADDITIVE MINIMUM LEVEL" message on the multifunction display of my 53 plate 307SW 2.0 HDi, I bought a top-up kit from a Peugeot dealer. It consists of a 3 litre bottle of the EOLYS fluid, an empty 1 litre bottle, a tube and a tap.
Having read this and other forums I realise that after filling the tank I'll need to get the additive dosing ECU and the main ECU reset.
The problem is that the kit comes with no instructions and it's not obvious how to fill it. If anyone has managed to do this job I'd be grateful for any tips.

Many thanks,

Richard Read more

paul stizza

hi could you tell me is the EOLYS tank i have had a look near the back wheel and its not ther so any help with this would be rearly good

sharkey

I have been looking through this forum on a regular basis ever since my Mazda diesel estate 2002 went in to have its turbo changed. I have had nothing but problems over the last year and the last straw resulted last week when my car started making a loud knocking sound. I pulled over as soon as I noticed the noise. A recovery man first on the scene said that I had no oil in the engine and suspected that it was a broken Cam shaft (difficult to believe as I lost nothing in performance, had no oil warning light and had had a full service in January and more recently in the last week had had the cam belt renewed, however to my annoyance nothing else - despite the fact that I believed they were going to service it at the same time!). The car was recovered to a local garage who have repaired my car numerous times over the last 2 years. The current state of play after many investigations and phonecalls to diesel specialists, and a local mazda dealer ( who seemed totally uninterested) by the garage is that they suspect that the fuel injectors, one or more are shot, although they told me they still cannot be sure. The garage's advice is to try and find some used injectors from a breakers yard as new ones will cost 428.66 each to replace + Labour and they cannot guarantee that the injectors are the route of the problem and it could still be something else - back to square one!!

I am at my wits end! Having spent over two grand on the car over two years, I feel like sending the car for scrap, cutting my losses and running but I feel someone out there might have experience of this and may be able to offer me some advice and a possible way forward. (I like others have noticed Screwloose seems particularly knowledgeable about Mazda diesel problems). In the meantime I am going to contact my local mazda dealer and any other local mazda specialists to see if they can shed some light on this problem.

I would value any contributions to this problem

Many Thanks
Sharkey Read more

balleballe

find a place that will recon the turbo - should cost you no more than £600. for one injector you should be looking at around £400 (including labour) at any competant independant.

jamesy23

After about 55k miles and a recent full service our scenic displayed a warning "emmission". The dealers could not find a fault. Shortly after this the emmissions warning came on again and the battery went flat. The dealer claimed 2 unrelated faults and replaced the battery and "fixed" the sensor on the camshaft. The emmissions warning light came on again and a couple of days later the car would not start (flat battery) the dealership are struggliung with this fault. Any suggestions out there? Help!

Jamesy23
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Burgers

I had the same problem with our 54 reg 1.6 Grand scenic.

Earlier this year the car developed a sudden power loss followed by the emissions warning.
As the car was outside the warranty I took to my trusted local mechanic. His diagnostics unit show a fault on coil pack 4. He replaced and reset the system. Still got a fault on cylinder 4. He then changed the spark plug. Reset the system and now got an error on pack 1. He decided to replace all 4 coils and the 4 sparks (the sparked needed doing). All now seemed fine.

Couple of days later - same warning. Also now we were getting a random dead battery. This kept occurring despite checking for any lights (interior and exterior) being left on. We even checked to see if there was any high current draws whilst car was parked. Nothing out of the ordinary.

Took car back to mechanic - diag unit now showed a cam sensor error. Left car overnight for sensor to be replaced and for main battery to be tested (battery in good nick). Emissions error cleared. Mechanic couldn't find any fault with electrics - no significant power draw.

Took car back - 2 miles down road - emissions warning again. We decided to keep the car for a while to see if anything would settle. Now we noticed the engine would cut out whilst at idle. The random battery discharge still kept up. We also noticed that after charging the battery back up, the electric windows would not open smoothly. Each time you tried to open a window it would jerk bit by bit. How ever this would then random cure itself!

We took the car back and this time decided that the engine had to be stripped - no other choice. Eventually it was discovered that the cam had a missing tooth. This was replaced and the car given a good test.

Since then we haven't had any further problems. Our mechanic is at loss to explain why we were getting the battery drains as the problems with the Cam where not likely to cause any such drain. So despite the considerable sum of money spent (although would have been far worse at a dealership!!!) we now have a working car.

Interestingly my mother has a o4 scenic which also this year has had the emissions warning and had to have all 4 coil packs replaced...........

astrabob

Having recently got my first company car, I've given my Astra Estate to my wife. It is a year 2001 1.7 diesel model, with a high 176k miles. I had been using it for a daily 75 mile motorway commute for six years.

Unfortunately, two weeks ago, the car spun at a roundabout, hit the kerb, then demolished a metal gate and fence. No one was injured.

The car was recovered to our house. To me the damage looked fixable.

Last Friday, the insurance company declared it a 'Cat C' write off.

We asked for it back, and it was delivered back on Tuesday this week.

So far, I've fitted a new radiator and headlight (which has been aligned), and a new bumper bar (the metal bar which fits behind the bumper). I've secured the original plastic bumper in place, but have a new painted one on order. I've also replaced three tyres.

Outstanding issues are to fit the new bumper, get the tracking checked, get a new MOT, and get a Vehicle identity check. (The car only has third party insurance until it passes an MOT). It also had a minor scratch in one of the doors, which my wife will get fixed with a 'Dentmaster' type company.

Total costs, including the MOT and VIC, but excluding the door scratch look to be £480.
It is now in use again, 3 days after being delivered back. I will probably have spent about 2 days sorting it out, most of which has been chasing around for parts, not working on the car.

The insurance company valued it at £1600, and after subtracting the £350 excess and £320 'salvage value', we expect to receive £970.

Do insurance companies write off cars too readily? Does the offer of a hire car while the car is being repaired mean that repairs are too expensive? Any comments? Read more

happy polo

- lauriesmb

Just a suggestion for the future, but have you considered looking at the specialist classic car insurers for when you next renew? There are a good few of these around, most seem to be pretty reputable and they will almost certainly take a much more sympathetic and understanding approach than a mainstream firm. Your car doesn't have to be ancient, they will accept most 'modern classic' models provided it's not just a bog-standard recent mainstrean motor. If you buy one of the classic car mags yo'll find plenty of ads for them in there.

Tron

Looking online at Mytyres, Kwik Fit, National etc., there are lots of brands of budget tyres that I have never heard of all between the £40 and £50 (inc fitting) price range.

195 60 15 H is what I am after and to go on a rear axle.

What do you recommend please? Read more

Tornadorot

It always surprises me and worries me that the supposed champions for the British motorist
(the AA and RAC) do not appear to publish tyre tests and recommendations.


I think they used to, back in the days of the AA's Drive magazine, which was full of in-depth road tests, reviews and background articles. But such things cost money, and were probably deemed not "core business" by their beancounters...
Zafira Adam

Hi

We have an 04 1.6 Life (petrol).

Over the last 6 weeks, it hwas occasionally refused to start, but shows an error light on the dash (yellow engine symbol flashes).

It has been to our local independent garage as well as two Vauxhall main dealers and they can find nothing wrong. There was a lambda error on the ECU, but this should not stop it starting.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Cheers

Adam

slt Read more

Ariff

I do have the some problem with my zafira 2001 1.8 , I all ready change the fuel pump but the problem is still the some , it start only after bein reast for many hours then after driving the next time refuse to start. The Garage check the are think mybe cotrolbox type simtec 71 it dose give signal to imobilliser code B3040. The said I should change the control box Iif I do so then I must also change key ring with new ignition key even that the said the a not 100% sure ,.... is anyone has solution, pls

Dudley

I'm told that the timing belt on my 1.9 TDI should be replaced every 95,000 miles or four years, whichever occurs sooner. It's a very expensive job and since I've done only 32,000 miles, what is the risk of breakage? Any advice appreciated, even if it only confirms I've got to spend lots of money! Read more

John F

Thanks Richard and 659....thats v interesting - the more I learn about modern diesels the more I feel like sticking to low revving non-turbo petrol ECDs for my low-mileage cars!

I entirely take the point about grotty pulleys - had to change a metal one once on petrol Passat at around 150,000ish - [beyond my competence to change belt - 10mins or 10hrs!] - when it started whining - belt was OK, sold at 240,000+ still going strong on original [occasionally snake-oiled] belt - just a small squirt every 20,000 or so.....