August 2008
My friend has an '07 Passat 2.0 Tdi and her original Dunlop SP Sports on the front now need replacing, having covered 42k miles. It would take me several years to rack up this kind of mileage, and in my opinion they have lasted exceptionally well.
Should she replace with the same again?...her main criteria is grip (especially given our inclement weather) and she spends most days trawling up and down our motorway system.
Cost is not so important...the lease company will be paying and she has to use ATS.
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Would'nt start, left overnight and started first time. Drove around estate for 15 minutes and cut out when turning a right hand bend. Power steering gone, the lot!
Took off fuel lines to fuel filter and it started again,managed to get home (2 miles)
Let it idle for 5 minutes and it cut out again. Left overnight, came back next morning and it started 1st time. Died after 10 minutes before even getting up to temperature.
Decided to change fuel filter thinking this was the cause.
Got it going again, drove around the estate a few times but stalled again. Would'nt start so left overnight. Next morning would'nt start, battery getting low, called out AA who checked fuel to rail, ok good pressure and a slight pulse to glo plug electronic leads.
Tried different key still did'nt start, put on diagnostic machine faults found P0191 fuel rail pressure, P0204 injector CR, P0340 cam sensor (twice) and P8888 control pressure injector and finally P1000 manufacturers specified fault.
I think it may be the cam sensor because there is fuel in the rail but it's not going down through the injectors, but what's this P1000 fault?
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Easy to follow instructions can be found at:
www.pc-point.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3
Hello, my mate as the 05 plate 318i 2.0ltre petrol bmw.
He just took it to a local garage for a service and they said because it went over the service limit they can't take off the service indicator?
They said it must go back to bmw for this to be done? is this true?
I remember older bmw's you could buy a tool to plug into the harness to turn off the service lights, can't you do the similar thing to these?
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hello mate {edited to remove 'txt' talk}
not sure if the 05 318 is the same principle as the 03 320d but i did a search on resetting service on the net and found the you can reset it using your trip buttons .... here is the a copy of what i found hope it helps ........
Found this on another site. It worked on my E46 2002 Compact.
BMW 2001 to current ; Ignition Off (Position 0) ; Press and Hold the trip odometer button while turning key to position 1 (ACCESSORY) ; Keep the button depressed (about 5 secs.) until you see "Oil Service" or "Inspection" with "Reset" or "Re" in the display* ; Press the button again and hold for approx. 5 secs. until "Reset" or "Re" flashes ; While the display is flashing, briefly press the button again to reset the Service Interval. After the display has shown the new interval you should see "END SIA" for about 2 seconds Note: that if the "Reset" or "Re" does not flash, then you have not met the minimum consumption level and cannot reset
Note: On vehicles with "High" cluster, you will also see the amount of fuel (in litres) remaining until next service
My Lupo misfires under steady running (e.g. at a steady 30mph) when it is cold, but is OK once warmed up (petrol engine).
My garage said it was the MAP sensor and but replacing this didn't cure the problem.
I have seen some info on the web indicating that this fault can be caused by failure of the heater element in the lamda sensor, causing the ECU to think the engine is running too rich when it is cold, so it makes the mixture leaner until the mixture till the engine misfires. Once the exhaust gas has heated up the lambda sensor, the problem goes away.
What do you think?
If I could find out which wires on the lamba sensor connect to the heater element then I can easily test it myself. There are 5 wires: grey, white, yellow, black and blue. The garage won't tell me which is which and I can't find a reference on the web which has this info. Read more
I was wondering whether you managed to work out what the problem with your Lupo was? My 2001 Lupo seems to be suffering from similar symptoms - it splutters everso slightly when I'm going at 30mph in 4th gear, but at no other time. I've had the car a year and it's a problem that's only developed in the last three months. I've taken the car to two different garages four times, and none of them can work out what's wrong with it. Do you have any pointers? I have changed the spark plugs and plug leads but it's no better. The problem started after my car was serviced at 60,000 miles 3 months ago.
I was driving home with my wife when she pushed the electric window button and the windows, sunroof, radio and computer display all stopped working.
In the bonnet it turned out to be the 1st 60 Amp fuse. I replaced but it kept blowing.
I've now replaced the window motor and regulator but it's just blown again. Any ideas?
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Does the fuse still blow if you disconnect the wiring connetcor to the door?
Electrical problems on SWMBO's Zafira have been related to the loom chafing in the rubber gaiter between the B pillar and the rear door, so check those.
What cars have the above, so far found Mazda 323, Volvo V50 anymore? Read more
Renault 16 was another double bed with all seats folded flat.
Only four bolts to remove the seat on my old Cortina.
Nothing to stop you removing the seat of a new car, other than the electric cabling for the seatbelt warning, the airbag in the backrest, the weird fixings used in modern cars, etc, etc.
Need some help please. Helping a friend bleed his brakes after he had fitted new rear discs and pads and despite having bled all 4 wheels we can get no pedal at all when the engine is running. There is something there before you start the engine but when you do the pedal goes straight to the floor.
A few points to note:-
i/he had the calipers off the car to wind the pistons back
ii/ he noticed a split servo hose and replaced this.
Any ideas- have not come across this before?
many thanks
Incidently when Haynes talks about RH first is this from the driver,s seat?
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Thanks to all who replied eventually got it sorted.
Used the pressure bleeder on all 4 wheels : didn't seem to purge much air and there was still no pedal resistance.
Then bled both the bleeding nipples on the the master cylinder and again didn't note any air coming out. However this must have been the problem as the brakes are now working fine again.
hello,
i have a renault kangoo 1.9 diesel f8q engine , does anyone know how to check the no 3 injector its the only one with the electrics going to it this is what it says on the manual cd ive got
The needle lift sensor is integrated to the injector
holder (cylinder n° 3). Its function is to transmit
the movements of the injector needle to the
computer. This allows the start of injection to be
deduced. The computer processes this information
and uses it to compare the advance requested
to the advance corrector on the pump to the
advance actually applied . In this way, the system
works as a closed loop.
but it doesnt say how to check how it works
any ideas please
cheers
slt Read more
I can't remember the years and oval plate numbers that need new cam pulleys; but there were major problems with the Renfault 1.9 diesels - so bad that many independents wouldn't touch a belt on them as they had been bitten too often through no fault of their own.
The dual-mass cam pulleys were supposed to stop their belt fretting problem - but caused mayhem with the, joke, locating notch.
I currently drive a Honda Prelude VTEC that I?m very happy with but have just seen a Renault Avantime for sale in a local dealer.
It?s the 2.0Litre turbo in the metallic blue / silver two tone paintwork, its only got 60,000 on the clock and all logic says it would be an absolutely stupid buy even if I could get it for £4000 ish as tax is likely in the £400 bracket, economy poor, handling mediocre and reliability worse?.. but I?m still seriously considering it, mainly due to its fantastic styling and uniqueness.
Has anybody got any horror stories of these to make me see sense?
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The fact that this answering a many year old OP ,the electrics are a nightmare have nothing whatsoever to do with Samsung.Both the Laguna and Espace that this machine was based on are an absolute bag of nails including the electrics,unusual looking I will grant you but anybody with any sanity would leave well alone.
Hi all. I currently have a great W reg 1.4 Polo which I love, but a chronic arthritic problem means I need to start thinking about changing to a car with an auto gearbox. My budget will be about £4k, no more, and I'm happy to change manufacturer despite being a big VW fan. The Yaris seems tempting, but I'm reading things about it having a trick manual box rather than a normal auto, which sounds worrying. I don't really need anything bigger than a Polo, so although I like my wife's Focus, a car that size would be too big for my needs. My Polo is more than nippy enough for me, though I realise an auto will sap some power and use more fuel. Would I perhaps need a 1.6 to give me the same sort of performance I'm used to? I can't find much info on auto Polos, such as how many speeds the box has etc.
Any suggestions most appreciated! Read more
Mrs Dugong has a 2002 Civic 1.6 auto for which we were recently offered £3500 in p/x. Nothing (at all) has gone wrong with it since new.
Outward dimensions can't be much more than a Polo and the interior space is unbelievable (flat floor, loads of rear leg room, plenty of headroom front and rear even with a sun roof, and it pre-dates the introduction of the centre console so you can 'walk' from the front to the back! She won't have the new Civic given, it's much more closed in.
It's a four speed torque converter auto, and very easy to drive. You'll have to join the WI, but that's a small price to pay for such practicality and reliability.
Browse
legacylad - yes, I was a bit surprised. The car was in for a service and the service manager phoned to say that the front tyres were worn and needed replacing. I said thanks but I'll get new ones at my usual tyre place, and he replied that he could not let the vehicle out of the workshop because the tyres were illegal, with the cord (?) showing!
Ok, I'm not he world's most conscientious checker of tyres but every time I walk past the car or get in it I subconsciously give the tyres a once over, and if the front tyres were that bad I'm sure I would have noticed. I suppose I should have asked to see the old tyres when I picked the car up.
The Passat is a big car and the 2 litre diesel engine and transmission sitting over the front wheels (and the torque) must create fairly rapid wear. But, like I say, I don't drive like a maniac and do a lot of dual carriageway and motorway driving. I thought I'd get at least 20k miles from the fronts.
My 2000X Audi A4 1.9TDi has consistently covered 22k on fronts and about double on rears.
But then it's a smaller, lighter and less torquey car.