February 2008
2002 1.2 Clio expression, 3dr.
Hi, please can some one help, this is my girlfriends car, got in it to go to work, all lights come on dash etc then the relevant warning light go off as normal, go to start the car and nothing happens at all. doesn't turn over what so ever or even make a sound. immobiliser light isnt on but im guessing this would be the problem? had a new starter motor last year and a new battery 2 years ago, so fairly sure it wouldn't be that? can any one please help?
Thanks,
Luke
Luke seeing as the requests we make about year and engine size are so vague, I've altered this one for you ! Read more
I have had a diesel clatter/knocking sound coming from my LC5 around 1000rpm to 1800rpm on start up and when the engine is under load. The noise is similar to the" old tractor " noise".
The noise does get quieter once the enging is warmed up, and I have just changed the oil to 5w30 and had new injectors fitted, but still the problem persists. Can any one throw some light on the subject as the Toyota garage in Spain does not seem to know how to solve the problem
Read more
Do you happen to know if similar problems are known to affect the later 2KD-FTV
engines fitted to Hiluxs?
Do you know if the 2KD-FTV uses a particulate trap?
Hi merlin, i'm only aware of this heavy knocking being a (albeit rare) problem on the 3.0 td common rail diesel as fitted to the LC5 and the mk6 hilux (also vigo when a grey).
Havent a clue about the particulate filter, TBH i get confused with the engine code nos, dont even know which my own is.
You may get better info from hpoc.co.uk (hilux pickup owners club) hope mods dont mind me mentioning them.
Regards.
Hi
My bro has a dead Astra diesel with a failed water pump that's broken the cambelt (says the RAC man). He lives a long way from me so I need to know a bit more about Astra Diesels before I go over to fix it for him....
Seems there are two engines a Vauxhall and Isuzu. How can you tell them apart (He sent me a pic and his has DIESEL written on the cam cover and a big air filter box on the left).
In addition to the water pump and belt, is it likely to need valve replacement?
If it needs valve replacement can you take the head off with the manifolds in place?
I just need to figure how long the job will take.
Tks Stuart Read more
>>only true way to go is with the right kit
Fully agree, and I wouldn't suggest the OP should try anything else.
The "desert method" is very much a cheat, and would almost certainly result in incorrect cam timing.
Help! My Focus is only delivering 23-25 mls per gallon on a run and some town work,115,000 mls, new plugs, leads, air filter, replaced so far. Would new injectors help or is this normal MPG, in the real world,for this model? No problems with performance, doesn't use oil, any ideas, experiences welcome! Read more
A diesel car wil give you better economy KEEP IT GREEN
Has anyone had problems with the Mazada warranty when it comes to flywheel problems?
I've done 49 ,000 miles and just coming up ( but not there yet) to the end of my three year warranty when, two weeks ago , I started to have diffculty moving off from standing.
Hmmm.. clutch slip.
Two days later, book it into the local Mazada garage. They can't do anything for a week. Two days later it's getting considerably worse and breaks down on the way to work.
Back at the Mazda garage they confirm its the clutch, but say the wear on the clutch has caused excessive play on the flywheel. and they give me a new clutch and a new flywheel and a bill for for £1380...
Their warranty people say the clutch- being a friction part - is only covered for 9,000 miles, and the damage to flywheel is consequential damage from the clutch and is therefore not covered either.
I've now got a big heavy flywheel in my garage and no idea how five days of clutch slip could leave it like that
and me so penniless.
Ang suggestions?
Read more
Thanks for all your help. Just like to add that after offering to meet Mazda half way on the bill a year ago, I finally got my County Court hearing date confirmed. Then a week before the hearing, Mazda agreed to settle half way. There does seem to be quite a bit of evidence out there on the web regarding Mazda 6 DMF & clutch problems for anyone in a similar position - There was even a petition started in the US.
Decided to take advantage of today's good weather and spend a few minutes with the touch up paint to disguise the odd stone chip and battle scar. Started off by cutting back with a proprietory rubbing polish. Carefully painted in affected areas and subsequently applied the clear laquer top coat. Doesn't look half bad though I say it m'self ! Does anyone have any further tips on how to more fully blend the new paint into the old ? Read more
Thankyou Samuel Pepys :oP
Depending who you speak to, there appears to be different answers so can anyone please help me with a definitive one?
My Dad's Focus 1.8 Zetec is now 7.5 years old but it's only done about 47000 miles from new (he's retired!).
I told him that it must be due a cambelt swap as it's never had one. Having studied the handbook it seems to imply that it should be done at 5yrs or 50k. He mentioned the cambelt to his local garage when booking a routine annual service but was told that it only needs a belt swap at 10yrs or 100k! From what I could find in the handbook, it is only a Zetec E engine (1.4 & 1.6) that has a 10yr/100k limit and the 1.8 is 5yr/50k.
It seems odd that a garage would turn down work (obviously not a main dealer!) when a customer is happy to pay for it, but I am just a bit unsure about what is actually right as I don't wish my Dad's pistons to say "hello" to his valves any time soon!
Any advice would be appreciated - thanks! Read more
I have a 2001 model 2.0 Focus at just over 50000 miles and plan to to the change at 10 years. If I still have the car then I will also be fitting the full cambelt kit with the tensioner/pulley wheel, as I believe on zetecs in 99% of cases this is the piece that fails, not as many people think the cambelt snapping. I must say though I am not overly concerned and don't feel there is any need to do it early. Also your engine should have the revised cam-belt setup which was introduced in Jan 99 where they deleted the lower idler pulley.
Hi everyone
Just completed a service on the above mentioned car, but could I find the spark plugs???!!! Where the blummin hell are they?
There's no Haynes manual out at present, so I'm hoping someone can answer my question.
Thanks in advance
GazKaz Read more
They are under the black leads in the centre of the twin cams.
Release the single screw and pull out the connector from the deep recess.
See:
tinyurl.com/yuenbs
I have recently tried to part ex my 2004 cmax cvt 1.6 tdci but 2 dealers have refused to even off a price. They say it's because of the cvt box. The car is immaculate , full service history 24,000 miles in zetec trim. Has anyone expereinced this problem or had trouble with the box please? Read more
Hello John,
I have written an article about the C-Max which should guide you, the link is;...
Has anyone any opinions on the best make, age and place to buy a small car to buy in terms of price and overall running costs. eg. petrol, insurance, tax, devaluation, reliability. I probably aim to travel only 6000 miles/yr
The main factor is least Hazzle. I originally looked at Toyota Yaris and Honda Jazz, these have a good reliability record and I have a Toyota garage nearby, unfortunately there are few genuine private sales out there and the dealers ask for top prices. I took a trip to Trade Sales in Slough, there are plenty of them and very cheap but of course one cannot take a test drive or even start the engine!
Perhaps I should extend my look to traditionally less reliable makes such as the Ford Fiesta and Vauxhall Corsa, since at least there should be some private sales.
Originally I was looking for a 1 year old vehicle so it was still in warranty and quite a bit of devaluation had come off, however perhaps warranty isn't important nowadays since cars are far more reliable than they used to be so a 4 to 5 year old might be best value? Read more
Hyundai Getz? Cheap even when new.
SWMBO is still very pleased after owning hers for 10 months.


Seconded. I've had this on various cars over the years. An easy (and free) check before going into the complexities of immobilisers.
If you have no joy with this, get a multimeter set to DC volts, and connect the positive probe to this connector and the negative to a good earth point (or the battery negative). Have an assistant operate the starter. If there's a feed, it's a starter/solenoid fault. If not, it points to the ignition switch or an immobiliser problem, but further investigation will be needed.
Cheers
DP