February 2008
Depending who you speak to, there appears to be different answers so can anyone please help me with a definitive one?
My Dad's Focus 1.8 Zetec is now 7.5 years old but it's only done about 47000 miles from new (he's retired!).
I told him that it must be due a cambelt swap as it's never had one. Having studied the handbook it seems to imply that it should be done at 5yrs or 50k. He mentioned the cambelt to his local garage when booking a routine annual service but was told that it only needs a belt swap at 10yrs or 100k! From what I could find in the handbook, it is only a Zetec E engine (1.4 & 1.6) that has a 10yr/100k limit and the 1.8 is 5yr/50k.
It seems odd that a garage would turn down work (obviously not a main dealer!) when a customer is happy to pay for it, but I am just a bit unsure about what is actually right as I don't wish my Dad's pistons to say "hello" to his valves any time soon!
Any advice would be appreciated - thanks! Read more
Hi everyone
Just completed a service on the above mentioned car, but could I find the spark plugs???!!! Where the blummin hell are they?
There's no Haynes manual out at present, so I'm hoping someone can answer my question.
Thanks in advance
GazKaz Read more
They are under the black leads in the centre of the twin cams.
Release the single screw and pull out the connector from the deep recess.
See:
tinyurl.com/yuenbs
I have recently tried to part ex my 2004 cmax cvt 1.6 tdci but 2 dealers have refused to even off a price. They say it's because of the cvt box. The car is immaculate , full service history 24,000 miles in zetec trim. Has anyone expereinced this problem or had trouble with the box please? Read more
Hello John,
I have written an article about the C-Max which should guide you, the link is;...
Has anyone any opinions on the best make, age and place to buy a small car to buy in terms of price and overall running costs. eg. petrol, insurance, tax, devaluation, reliability. I probably aim to travel only 6000 miles/yr
The main factor is least Hazzle. I originally looked at Toyota Yaris and Honda Jazz, these have a good reliability record and I have a Toyota garage nearby, unfortunately there are few genuine private sales out there and the dealers ask for top prices. I took a trip to Trade Sales in Slough, there are plenty of them and very cheap but of course one cannot take a test drive or even start the engine!
Perhaps I should extend my look to traditionally less reliable makes such as the Ford Fiesta and Vauxhall Corsa, since at least there should be some private sales.
Originally I was looking for a 1 year old vehicle so it was still in warranty and quite a bit of devaluation had come off, however perhaps warranty isn't important nowadays since cars are far more reliable than they used to be so a 4 to 5 year old might be best value? Read more
Hyundai Getz? Cheap even when new.
SWMBO is still very pleased after owning hers for 10 months.
where is the diagnostic socket on my rover 75 on 05 reg,any help appreciated.
{Subject header edited to make less vague, AND to include the year, as per the requests that you obviously haven't spotted!} Read more
Indeed!
This site ain't bad either!
forums.mg-rover.org/forumdisplay.php?f=90
Any advice for this one?!
The instrument lights went out very suddenly this evening, that is the dashboard lighting and all the lighting for the radio, auto gearbox selection etc....
I've looked up the fuses and decided it was Fuse 31, 7.5 amps. Changed the fuse, even though it looked fine. Checked all the other 7.5 amp fuses, they are all ok too.
Any ideas if there is anything else I need to check or a different fuse?
Its very dark driving with no interior illumination!! (well, at night, anyway!)
Thanks! Read more
Same problem on my 1998 2.0L GLX. All sidelights were out, though the parking position worked fine. I'd guessed it might be the switch but was not sure, and then discovered this excellent thread.
Much the same cause, except there was no sign of any burning on the connectors. But what I did notice, on exactly the same red wire connection (in the green block) that everyone else mentions here, was the connector leaves were badly splayed, so it was not going to grip the pin pushing into it. No doubt another symptom of getting a bit hot. So I carefully closed the connector to a sensible gap again, using a very small watchmakers screwdriver. But note it's important to not accidentally short the connector to ground when you do this, else you will blow a fuse! (Unless of course you've been ultra-good and disconnected the battery - which I could not be bothered with).
After which I was rewarded with that very heartening little warning ping!
AARGH! Help! My brain hurts! Can't decide between these two SUVs. Love the interior of the Honda, very comfortable and good to drive. Diesel much quieter than Rav4. But Rav exterior styling is a lot more pleasing to the eye. And the XTR is an amazingly well equipped vehicle for the money. My wife says the Honda has a more user friendly gear change, she doesn't like the long throw of the Rav. We have test driven both petrols and diesels, and performance is similar like for like. Now need divine intervention to help make a decision before my head explodes!!!!
Read more
Still some old (2007 model) X-trails @ Motorpoint - £13K for a brand new / old model car - about £10K less than the price of a new new CRV or RAV4.
£10K saved what could you do with that?
hi ive got a zafira 2.dti 52 reg run realy well easy to start but garage told me it needed new glow plus so let them fit them now car is hard to start in the morning and run lumpy for a few minuits can any one help have had codes read and it comes up with no faults have taken back to garage and was told there nothing wrong and that all zafiras are like this
Read more
i have just been told that i need a new pump, glow plugs, injector seals, something called a handyman valve and something else to get my zafira going. mechanic estimated £2500 for parts alone. this is maybe more than my car is worth. think i will sell it for breaking. body and interior very good so might get a few hundred quid
hi, im new to this forum and i must say its very informative and the responses are very quick , i would like some pointers as to where i could enrol in auto electrician courses or similar in the Nottingham area , i tried the open university web site looking for a correspondence course but i dont think they cater for such things, or does a dvd home mechanics tutorial exist? thankyou Read more
Hello there mate...
I know it's been awhile since this post, However, I'm really interested on your out come... Did you find anything positive to take your knowledge in 'auto diagnostics further?...
I bought a new Jazz 1.4 SE cvt auto. The car does good 40mpg fuel economy around town but I'm not so happy with the firm ride.
Even driving slowly on say block paved streets, there is noticable vibration through the steering and seat.
I don't have a problem with the ride with other cars like 2001 Polo, Touran, 98 Civc and A150 (15" wheels)
The Jazz is fitted with standard fit 15" alloys with Bridgestone RE040 185/55 15" H rated tyres, and I've read this combination can make the ride worse. I understand the Jazz rides better on 14" wheels.
Can anyone advise if changing the Bridgestones for a different make of tyre will make any real difference in reducing the firmness (and harshness) of the car's ride, or would I be simply wasting my money? I'm considering Michelin Energy tyres as Costco can do a good price on them.
b Read more
I have a 54 plate Jazz CVT.
The front Yokohama Aspec original tyres lasted 15222 miles.
The rears still have 5mm tread at 34130 miles.
The fronts were replaced with fateO AR 35 Advance 175/65/14s and I will replace them in the next few miles-so 19K as opposed to 15k on Yokohamas.
I had fateOs on a K-reg Astra auto which would not wear out!-so got them for the Jazz.
They came from a local independent-£34.50 each, inc. new valve & balance.
Their tread wear rating is 320-I don't notice any reduction in grip.
As for ride quality,low profiles seem to make all cars worse (various HJ test drives).
Personally, I don't think the Jazz rides worse than a Focus-wich is longer, wider, more expensive,lousy auto box, and no more luggage or passenger space.
Browse
.jpg)
I have a 2001 model 2.0 Focus at just over 50000 miles and plan to to the change at 10 years. If I still have the car then I will also be fitting the full cambelt kit with the tensioner/pulley wheel, as I believe on zetecs in 99% of cases this is the piece that fails, not as many people think the cambelt snapping. I must say though I am not overly concerned and don't feel there is any need to do it early. Also your engine should have the revised cam-belt setup which was introduced in Jan 99 where they deleted the lower idler pulley.