February 2008
Please help ,
I had a speeding ticket come through in November for a speeding offence witch happened in July. I went on to a site that deals with speeding ticket letters and reply with one stating that they need to get back to me within 14 days and that there was a 4 month gap . They replied to me saying they had been sending it to 53 Kings road rather than 33 Kings road as the dvla gave them this address and it wasn't till they went to do court prosidings that they got told it was 33 kings road and sent it out to me in November . can any one help i know i need to reply but just don't know what to say not been able to find any thing on this ????????
Read more
Anyone know what would cause the tailgate stop light to stop working, all the led's are out. The main stop lights are ok, as is their fuse. Read more
An afterthought--- If you need to change the number-plate illuminator festoon bulbs, don't try to undo the screws with a cross-head screwdriver like I did. All the small screws on Ford cars now are Torx-head. Use a T20 Torx bit for the number-plate lamp and T25 for the two screws on the inside of each rear-light cluster. Taking out the two screws will loosen but not remove the rear-light cluster. It will still be held by two plastic pegs on the outside. Hold the cluster firmly with both hands and give a smart pull forward to unplug the two plastic pegs. Or is yours the pre-facelift model? In which case the rear-light clusters are held with a big plastic wing-nut on the inside. You have to reach into the back of the light unit to feel it. Just unscrew it and the light cluster is free. You can leave it dangling on its wiring whilst you change each individual bulb. Remember to check that the amber coating on the indicator bulbs isn't peeling before each MOT as they'll fail it if any white light is showing.
Happy New Year to all...
HELP!!
Diesel Estate car!
Sometimes i can drive for 3 days in a row with no probs, other times i can drive for 3 days then all of a sudden it loses power, dies & wont start again. Some days i can drive 3 miles and it suddenly dies! Usually when this happens if i leave it 10-15 mins it will start again! Its so unpredictable! There is no warning, no noise, no juddering, nothing!
The coiled wire light flashes too!
Ive had it tested on the machine but no codes are showing!?
HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!! Read more
As an AA patrol I just thought I'd add to this discussion as having just gone out to one of these!! Exact same symptoms, member been having the cutting out over last week or so, glow plug light flashing, often restarts after a few mins (sadly not this time!) Did the usual things with our diognostics, Good signal from crank sensor, fuel pressure at the rail of approx 270bar for a split second then dropped to about 20bar, fault codes P1000+ (+ indicating happend very recently) and P1664 Injection pump control module malfunction! I got caught out on intank fuel pump as they use same harness for other vehicles with in tank pump ie 2 thin wires and 2 thick wires. This model doesn't have in tank pump!
Cure.......... I put new Cam sensor in, started like a dream!!! £22.79!!...
Is there anyway of finding out if someone has passed their driving test? Read more
You do not need insurance or road tax in the UK why bother with a licence.
I have this problem on my car. I have had the car looked at by my dealer who has tried to solve the problem but so far cant, Im told it is a software problem that Ford are trying to fix, it also causes rough running of the engine as well.
Read more
It sounds like the thermostat is not closing off completely when closed.
If you drive from cold for a couple of miles, stop & check the radiator, it should still be cold but suspect it will be warm. If the rad is warm check the hoses going to the rad & find the one that's warm. I think this engine has 2 thermostats, one for the engine & one for the oil cooler. It seems usually to be the oil cooler stat that fails.
My Berlingo has just failed its MOT. A front wheel bearing.
Now, I know nothing about wheel bearings, so one or two questions.
1) Is it unusual for a car to fail an MOT because of a wheel bearing? (car has 70,000 on the clock)
2) What factors would cause a wheel bearing to wear out faster?
3) Would a Berlingo wheel bearing be a time-consuming item to fit?
4) Would a Berlingo wheel bearing be a fairly unique part, or would it be the same as other Citroen wheel bearings?
5) MOT was done by a Citroen dealer. Should I have expected them to tell me that the only problem was a wheel bearing, and offer to put the problem right there and then?
Read more
>>it false economy buying things like wheel bearings from the local motor factor or is
it best to get them from main dealer?
It doesn't matter, except on price. You could go to an ordinary bearings stockist, nothing to do with a motor dealer/factor at all. The MF will quite possible be more convenient, & have a better price, though.
My 2003 Grand Espace's turbo, catalytic convertor and radiator have failed after only 57000km.
My garage tells me that turbo failure is a common problem with this car, and that I should write to Renault to try and get some compensation.
I'd like to provide evidence in this letter that this a common problem, and of it being a probable design fault. Can anyone help me with building my case?
Thanks
Garrett Read more
You'd have to have proof of a full service history to get anywhere with Renault, I'm afraid.
You haven't said why the entire FI system needs replacing: it'll be worth getting a second opinion from an independent garage on what needs to be done and how much it will cost.
I am looking to purchase an MGTF either 1996 or 1999, 1.8 petrol engine, soft-top. Does anybody have any points and advice as to what to look for, potential problems, questions to ask. I understand that the headgasket needs to be checked and if possible replaced on occasions, is there anything else I should be asking about? Read more
My sister owned an MX-5, then a VVC MGF. She liked both overall. Neither was in any way unreliable despite her rather enthusiastic driving.
She preferred the MGF for looks and felt the interior quality was better as the Mazda is very plasticky, circa 1985 - hers did have leather a wood trim mind you, plus the full chrome pack.
In my experience working at a Rover main dealer, the cars arent unreliable, but they require careful and correct maintainance to stay reliable and dont skimp on costs as it will bite you.
Back in 1998, only a few years after they were launched, I drove one with approaching 90k on the clock - it was well used but the owner loved it to bits and it went like a bomb with nothing other than routine servicing.
If buying used, the most important thing is to find a car with full and proper service history AND DONT buy a low mileage one - these are the dogs usually as the K-Series and electrics hate sitting around. Far better to buy one thats done app 10k a year up.
The best models, in my opinion anyway, are the Trophy 160, in blue and also the earlier Abingdon special edition in brooklands green with the big wheels - both are very nice and more exclusive than the run of the mill models and the Trophy, I have always maintained, is the best MGF ive ever driven and far more supple than the TF that followed.
I'm in the market for a 'newer' car {mine's from the 1990s}.
I've driven many a car with cruise control but wot does a 'speed limiter' do?
Looked on var websites but all they say it 'limits top speed'.
All the cruise contol equiped cars i've driven do that anyway?
The car I'm looking at has both speed limiter and cruise control.
Plus it has an auto parking brake with hill start assist.
Do they work well?
I managed without them just fine all these years.
Sounds v expensive if things go pear shaped?
Ta
Read more
DD - You could say the same when they red line it at 120mph........
BMW are quoting 29.1 mpg for this car on the urban cycle. That seems somewhat optimistic for a six cylinder 3 litre petrol engine.
Anyone here ever obtained these figures ?
Thanks Read more
I had a 328i for 5 years and got 30 mpg on average, so would expect the newer ones to be more economical
Browse
.jpg)
Claver - the issue now is that, assuming there's more than one legit driver, there's a very real chance the the person who takes the fine + points is in fact innocent, since the Op probably can not be certain who was driving the at the time.