February 2008
Sorry if this has been discussed before but I'd appreciate anyone input. I have a leather seated 2003 Vx Omega auto thats crippling me in the lower back region when I drive. Sitting statically in the seat seems ok but drive half a mile and I can feel an ache coming on then I start having to shift round in the seat all the time and fidgeting. Its making me miserable as I had no problems with a previous cars (except a Citroen Saxo which gave similar pain) and the trouble started teh same day I picked the car up. I've go all sorts of adjustments - lumber / tilt / height but its no use - I cant get it right. Is there a psycology to pain - i.e if you expect to be uncomfortable you will be and then it becomes self fulfilling and tension builds up in the muscles? If I have to get rid (and I will - its that bad) whats got a good reputation for comfy driving position/seats thats in a similar class to the Omega for under 5 grand? Cheer + Thanks, David. Read more
When filling the washer bottle from a garden hose, the hose fitting blew off and sprayed water across the top of the engine. All seemed well and the car ran OK, but when the wife used it (it's hers) the next day, it ran terrible and she ended up abandoning it!
I brought it home running on one or two cylinders with loads of misfires and white smoke. When I got home, the flexi on the down pipe and the front of the cat were glowing cherry red and the insulation on the front bulkhead was smouldering! Unburnt fuel in the exhaust.
I have dried out the coils and cleaned the plugs and the engine starts fine and runs fairly smoothly when cold. When it's up to temperature, it bobbles a bit and sound like theres a slight blow from the right hand cylinder plug chamber (but this could be from anywhere and misleading). In reverse gear, the drive seems OK and the car doesn't grumble, but when going forwards it's different. On first picking up drive and then again at about 4-5000 rpm, theres a terrible vibration that comes right through the car and the car seems a bit down on power (although I don't drive it often and am comparing it to my own car). There are also rubbing marks on the downpipe where it's been touching the front anti-roll bar and steering gear. (These could be from the initial problems when the egine was VERY rough).
There's plenty of pressure at the tail pipe when on idle, although initially there wasn't and I thought the cat might be blocked.
I've read various posts in the forum and suspect either cat or MAP (or MAF don't know which on this engine) hose connections, but (a) can't find MAP sensor hoses! and (b) don't want to start breaking the exhaust into pieces until I've eliminated everything else as access is awkward and bolts WILL BE seized!
Any ideas or help????? photo of MAP / MAF locations appreciated.
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The coils will cause a bad misfire, especially when under load, along with rough idling when warmed up. On my megane, the coil on cylinder 4 was tracking after going through a huge puddle. It was ok idling cold, or with the aircon on, when warm it was lumpy and hunted. Once past 2500rpm it was ok. If yours doesn't clear with revs, then it is possible more than 1 coil involved.
I removed the coil packs and then vacuumed the spark plug bores. Take out the plugs and check their colour/condition. The should be a grey/beige colour (not black). This may point to the coil pack in question. Clean the bore out using WD40 and a rag. Then use WD40 or a silicon lubricant spray, and clean the coil extensions (Mine was a rust colour on number 4, until I cleaned it off with WD40). Reassemble, and try restarting. My car was like new afterwards. If there is no difference, you may need to replace one or more of the coil packs (about £20 each from good aftermarket suppliers). Don't use any agressive cleaners (carb cleaner, brake cleaner, etc) as this will damage the rubber/plastic and may cause a permanent fault. Silicon based products will condition the rubber and improve the voltage breakdown.
Hi all,
I expect there is an answer in here somewhere, i have looked to save repetition, but could not find it. So here is my problem:
I have an 02 reg Duratorq 2.0 I 16V Diesel engine. 80K on the clock. About 2 weeks ago it started to stutter/jump/kangaroo when accelerating with a light grey smoke out the back when this was happening. No smoke when travelling normally. (Great fun when pulling out of junctions/roundabouts!) No warning lights on the dashboard.
I had the fuel filter changed as i thought it might be a supply issue. Cured it straight away. However the problem has returned in the last 2 days. The Ford dealer in Hove cannot see me until next monday but there is a garage right behind me (who did the filter) who will do the repair but are not able to do diagnostics. Then I found this fab site!
I would be extreemly grateful for any responses, apologies if you are repeating yourselves! If you need any furhter info please let me know.
Many Thanks
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Shazzie21, thank you very, very much. I had the same problem on my 2.0 TDDI and error codes, (P0148, P0149 and P1564) after already spending £200, the garage didn't know what is was and were going to get me a new main fuel pump. Google gave your answer and I got a lift pump off ebay £100. all sorted now great.
My Passat 1.9 130 highline with loadsa toys is 60,000 tomorrow. How long will it last? July 04 but going really well, is it time to move on or could I get to 120,000 in another 4 years. Will it make 180,000 in 8 years. Is there a limit on this type of car. (PS neighbour has a N reg Audi 1.9 which seems to be approaching it's 16th year and still goes like a bomb) Read more
I guess you have to weigh the costs of keeping the car going vs the higher depreciation of a newer car.
There is also the advantage in keeping a car that you know how it has been driven and maintained and what has been replaced - it is a known quantity....
Does anybody have any ideas on how to stop the local male cats from peeing on the front of my new Golf. I understand that they are marking their territory but its leaving marks on my front bumper and engine grill
Subject line altered to reflect the type of cats that we're talking about ! - PU
{on a related theme, the subject header needed another 'p' adding. Also dropped the make of car as I'm sure cats can cock their leg up on any car and not just Golfs - DD} Read more
That's what you wrote a couple of weeks ago before it was deleted by admin.
Hi, is there anybody out there who knows how to correctly remove the radio from a 2006 56 reg Ford Focus Hatch?
I have had fair experience of fitting radios, cd changers, hands free kits etc over the years and i would like to install a bluetooth kit to my car. I have accumulated various radio removal keys including Ford ones but none fit these new style radios. They look like they are removed by using keys but i have been told by a Ford dealer that you need some 'special' keys which they won't supply and it's very tricky and time consuming etc??
Are they just trying to fob me off? I would appreciate any help please. Thanks.........
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Hi wrightstuff,
There's a great tutorial for removing your Ford Focus stereo and upgrading it here:...
Sounds very like air trapped somewhere. Have they tried it with all hoses clamped?
It could be air in the ABS modulator, or a faulty modulator itself - possibly a leaky valve. Read more
Just found this excellent site and would like to post a warning for all Golf owners and technicians.
My April 2007 Golf TDI105 developed a hissing sound from around the brake servo at about 4000 miles. It also became very prone to stalling when moving off. The dealer replaced the brake servo.
After collection I noticed the brake pedal felt soft and took the vehicle back to the dealer whose service manager told me next day that the brakes had been bled and that I would get used to the different feel of the car. He told me it was not possible to adjust the servo for a shorter pedal movement as this unit is preset at the factory. He told me I would get used to the different feel of the pedal.
The brake pedal felt no different. In my previous diesel Golfs Mk IV and Mk V, and this car before the servo was changed, the brakes came on progressively when the pedal reached about 50mm of travel. This also applied to the Jetta which the dealer loaned me while my Golf was in the workshop.
After the servo was replaced the brake pedal engaged the brakes at about 50mm of travel, but then continued downwards for another 50mm or so. The pedal could be restored by pumping but still slipped downwards as though there was a leak. I performed an emergency stop from 70 mph, pushing as hard as I could. The braking performance was excellent but a split second after the car came to rest the brake pedal reached the limit stop. In other words the brakes worked, but there is no reserve in the pedal travel.
I then had the vehicle inspected by an independent motor engineer who confirmed that there was something wrong with the braking system.
I returned the car to the dealer with a formal letter saying that either the brakes were fixed or I would reject the car. After about a week the dealer called and I returned to find the brakes were working properly.
An apologetic service manager told me that his technician had apparently failed to follow procedures. He said the Golf V had no bleed nipples at the callipers, the manual instructed that the brake system must be bled six times using the approved pressure bleed tool, and monitored by computer on the final bleed.
When this was done, the brake pedal was restored.
Maybe this post will save someone as much hassle as I have had. The car is OK otherwise apart from trim rattles but obviously VW has rested on its quality laurels far too long. We've had Golfs since the Mk 1, but next time we're buying Japanese.
My current car has died (see thirst for coolant on technical) and need a new (to me) car.
I have always wanted a 330d (see post over two years old) and am taking this opportunity to get one (03,04 e46 204bhp sport with some spec). Am I mad?? newer cars don't seem to have a feeling of quality anymore eg 1 year old jetta sport 140 tdi feels much inferior to swmbo 05 Bora 130 highline, standard spec levels aren't great there seems to be evidence of cost cutting that can be seen, so maybe plenty where you can't see it?
The e46 330d got nothing but praise at the time so it still has to be a good car??
do I take the plunge???? what should I watch out for?? Read more
On that subject you should easily get 40mpg + in a manual (driven with some restraint)
I took my car in to have the tappets replaced. During the work the garage did something to the head so had to replace it (at their own expense). Since then (and after them doing an oil change) the car used up all the oil on a 500 mile trip and has blue smoke coming from the exhaust on start up and in traffic.
Apart from being extremely embarrassing I would like to know if the garage have caused permanent damage to my car.
They have looked at it again and have said it is the valve rings and I need a new engine.
Is it not more likely that it is the piston rings?
The car is a 2002 Astra with 47000 miles on the clock.
I might be a girl and am not totally cabbage green but would appreciate some guidance on this matter.
Many thanks.
Alex Read more
Well, you think things are all sorted and then they catch you in the gut unawares!
The warranty place are now saying they will not cover the repair. They had a guy go and have a look at the car and said that because the pistons etc had carbon deposits it showed excessive oil usage and so wont pay.
We all know that it used oil but that is not why it went into the garage in the first place. Maybe the garage 'disturbed' something by knackering the head which set other things off, I don't know.
Guess I'm gonna have to pay now. Still don't quite know how the garage are gonna do it for £600 when a new engine fitted anywhere else is £2000! The warranty place originally said they thought the garage were backpeddling fast but there you go.
:o(
Nothing wrong with engine whatsoever, smooth, fresh oil, doesn't overheat, leak etc, no rattles, except as soon as you start up and pull away with any kind of Revs the buzzer sounds and light flashes with a red oil can! continues to flash until you turn off the engine, no matter how long the journey! Help! Read more
even with the oil switch out and unplugged
it still beeps and flashes!!!!!
That's because the flashing light is to indicate a fault with the oil pressure warning circuit itself - a switch open-circuit at the wrong revs etc.
I don't keep Skoda wiring diagrams; so as to the exact layout, number of switches etc. you'll have to consult a Haynes manual.
Browse
I have one of those heated vibro massage car seat covers. £20 @ Maplins plugs into the cigar lighter. Hard day sit down vibrate the stress away....bliss!
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