January 2008
Hi all,
You'll have to bear with me, I'm not too up on the technical names for things! The white plastic below the radiator fill cap has got a slight split in it and so is leaking. Its booked into the garage for a few days time but its been suggested to me that I might need a new radiator. Is this right? Im feeling a bit skint at the moment and could really do without having to shell out alot of money.
Any help would be much appreciated Read more
Hiya,
My old Land Rover's not starting! I have plenty of battery and fuel, but when I turn the key I get a single click and then nothing. It doesn't even try and turn over. A couple of days ago when I was starting it up in the morning it gave a high pitched whirr without turning over, but when I tried again it started normally.
I gave the starter motor a good tap with a hammer as I've been told that that can dislodge muck interfering with the contacts but with no effect... and that's about as far as my technical "expertise" goes!
Is this something minor that I can replace with a bit off the tinternet or is it time to get worried?? Any advice much appreciated!
Cheers,
Matt Read more
could be a starter solenoid failure
the way to test is to short across the two heavy terminals on the solenoid and you will hear the starter whirr if its working (be prepared for the sparks and dont use a good screwdriver)or put a jump lead on the terminal between the solenoid and starter and dab it on the positive battery terminal to hear the starter turn .if the starter turns doing this but just clicks with the key then its probably tyhe solenoid
the starter will not engage with the flywheel doing this as it needs the solenoid to make the starter circuit AND engage the starter with the flywheel
a starter will cost approx £80 +vat and a solenoid under £20 from paddocks spares
My daughter has a 9 months old son. Its time the 3 door Corsa to go and now she is looking for a 5 door 1.3L or under, biggish boot for the pram etc.
I want to find her one thats been looked after well with fsh etc.
Any recommendations? Read more
Although the boot of the Almera is big, it is a funny shape. The 306, by way of a contrast, was shallow but a more 'useable' shape, and was certainly fine for our 3 wheel buggy. In this case I second the unfashionable saloon notion, as nothing has a bigger boot than the likes of the Bora/Vento/Jetta.
Hello,
I was driving this morning and my ESP Light (Electronic Stability Program) has come on and it is staying on. No other warning lights are on at all. Any idea what this could be or if it can wait until service in April?
Thanks
{what part of "Include year, nature of problem - ect" in the header are you finding hard to understand!} Read more
The ESP is part of the ABS module. As the ABS light isn't on as well, then it must be only a stability system issue - maybe the steering angle sensor or a yaw sensor.
A code-read is the only way to go.
Hi
I am looking for impartial opinions on the Spray & Shine range of cleaning products. The product range is quite frequently demonstrated on Ideal World freeview channel. Where they often read out lots of viewers raving recommendations. I do not think I could bring myself to cleaning my car without water but maybe this is now considered an old fashioned attitude. Has anyone used this product and can endorse that it is as good as Ideal World make it out to be.
Johno
Read more
Agree - I would never touch with any length of barge pole.
Look at any number of car "detailing" forums and you will hardly ever see mention of this stuff, and if you do mention it you'll never be spoken to again.
The idea I presume is this spray and wax stuff is very slippy and coats the grit but it won't coat the side stuck to the paintwork and thus you get a grating affect. Not nice at all.
For me it a good rinse with the hose or pressure washer (including wheel arches and underside) then a spray all over with diluted wash stuff. Then using a stringy, wolly mit (not sponge as they are hard and trap and dirt between it and the paintwork again giving swirls) give it a good wash. Then a dry with a microfibre towel.
I think I'm fussy - you should see how much money some people spend on car cleaning products - but the results are amazing.
Recently aquired 1995 1.9 TD VSX Xantia estate with the hydra-active suspension.The(iIthink rear) brakes seem to be binding slightly,rear end dips down on takeoff and brake is obviously on intermittently when stationary,although never when left for any length of time.The LHM and return filters need to be changed and cleaned soon.Could this solve the problem?While the car was in for some other work I got the garage to check the pistons and they said all was O,K.Could there be some residual pressure in the braking system ?The filters are definately clogged up.Or is there some sort of distribution valve might need changing,I was under the impression that the rears only come into play under heavy braking and only a light application is enough to show up the problem. Read more
Thanks for the replies.I would say that the rear dipping on take off is certainly caused by the brake binding as it's proportional to how much they are binding.Its like pulling off in a car with a rear handbrake on slightly or not ie when the brakes not binding it dosn't and the height seems to be behaving itself pretty well otherwise.Interesting to hear that the height corrector can be lubricated ,are the instructions in the haynes manual ,mines not to hand at present.I would like to use some hydro rinsage but a local Citroen dealer wants to charge about £70 for 5 litres!!!! I can buy it from a Total distributor for £2.80 a litre +vat but minimum quantity is 20 litres!!!(4 5ltr cans)Any recommendations?The spheres have all been replaced recently at a Citroen dealer cost£450 disgracefull that they did that without changing the LHM etc .Probably quoted the previous owner a similar amount to do so, so understandable I suppose. If I can get some rinsage at a reasonable price should I bleed the brakes too to ensure all the pipes are flushed? If I can't ,would changing the LHM and doing the same be a worthwhile exersise?
couple of quick questions - on the 1.8 petrol is it possible to access the oil filter element to change it, and the sump drain plug to drain it WITHOUT dropping off the undershield that exists under the engine?
Cos the shield is hard to drop off if your doing it in the drive outside your house and have it up on the car jack.
I wondered if taking a frt roadwheel off did the trick ?
Oh and just where is the oil filter element left right or back of the engine, cant see it.
Ta Read more
One problem Haynes (Unbelievably) dont yet do a manual for the Focus 2, but thanks for the advice anyway!
Andrew
sq
I see there is a Legacy diesel road tast posted on Autocar today, which makes interesting reading :-
www.autocarmagazine.co.uk/CarReviews/FirstDrives/S.../
230393/
Made non-clickable in accordance with site policy
(Interjection by Honest John:
Fair comment about the Autocar test. There should have been a test of the Subaru diesel on this site last Thursday night. But the writer supplied his copy late. Here it is: www.honestjohn.co.uk/road_tests/index.htm?id=306 ) Read more
Excellent, HJ. Look forward to your usual high standard of test and description.
We have a 1999 Lanos & both wiper arms are 'sloppy'. On inspection, the bush assy' that the wiper spline comes through are very badly worn.
I would like to buy new & wondered if anybody knows a good source for parts?
Read more
Try a Chevrolet dealer; can't see anywhere else doing them.
My Son bought a P reg 4.0ltr Range Rover last week, yesterday he was driving the car when it suddenly stopped, all the coolant was lost from the bottom of the radiator, on inspection the radiator had burst at the bottom seam, the car is now at a garage waiting for another radiator to arrive. My first thought was that the head gasket has blown and pressurised the system, which has caused the radiator to fail, any other thoughts? also if there are any range rover experts amongst you what would the garage need to check before the head gasket is suspected? the car has a gas conversion installed.
many thanks.
Duggie Read more
duggie
Oh dear. LPG Rover V8s eat head gaskets; they corrode away on the second cylinder back on each bank. Often, they blow right through to the outside of the block.
The alloy radiators aren't exactly the best either. When you put the two together....
Get the garage to fit a new rad and then take it for a good drive; when they get back, sniff the header tank for hydrocarbons with a gas analyser.
Browse
Unless I'm mistaken you must be referring to the radiator expansion tank which is separate from the radiator which allows for coolant to expand under pressure when the engine is warm. If there is a crack in the filler neck it all depends how much coolant it's loosing and how often you have to fill it up.
If you only need to fill it up once a week you may be able to live with it for a few weeks, if it's every day then you need a new expansion tank which should not be too expensive.
I'm no mechanic but I've never heard of this problem before, do you know how it has happened?
Alternatively if the cap is on the radiator at the front of the car then you may well need a new radiator, but the advice above applies regarding filling it up etc.
I would refrain taking the car on long journeys until it's sorted.............