October 2018
I have a 12 plate Mini countryman, manual, petrol, a few months ago the stop/start function stopped working and I have no idea why.
The Air con hasn't been used much, I know when air con is in use the s/s cuts out.... Read more
Hi, I have a 2015 Fiesta 1.25 and need to change the oil and ant the right product
. The Ford car manual says use WSS-M2C948-B or C... Read more
I'm using Shell Helix Ultra 5W30 (Fully Synth) in that engine.
It quotes compatibility with WSS-M2C913-C, WSS-M2C913-D on the back....
I called in to a shop after driving 6 miles earlier. When I came out and started the car, the yellow power steering light was on and the power steering isn't working. I also get a yellow flashing oil can light for a few seconds after startup. I'm getting these fault codes;
00562 - Sensor for oil level / temperature
01309 - Power steering control module
If I clear the faults they come back straight away. Power steering fluid level is fine, as is engine oil.
I'm confused as to how these faults have appeared together when they're separate surely? Read more
Hi I have the same problem, and you r link has helped
What di you actually disconnect the wire going to the MAF on the back of the engine, or something else....
Hi, my car failed to restart after parking. I was helped by a person with jump leads, and the next day following the fitting of a new battery and new ignition switch the problem still persists Intermittently. The main dealer checked it for four hours but the diagnostics could not find a fault. It's 3 years old and done 47,000 miles (a driving school car ). Someone is taking a driving test in 2 weeks and I'm worried the car might not start at the start of the test. Any help would be appreciated!
Rob Read more
thanks
Auto electrician has checked. It is okay.
I have a Ford Fiesta mk6 1.4 tdci 2009 van that is running lumpy and recently went into limp mode. It sounds like it’s running on 3 cylinders.
first I removed the air box to get access to the injectors. I then started the car to see if I could feel the injectors pulsing/buzzing. I could feel number 1 2 3 working but not number 4 so...
After plugging in and scanning I found the code p1204 (injector 4 circuit open/shorted) So I tested the injector loom and all injectors with a multimeter. I was getting a lower reading on the number 4 injector. So all tests was pointing to a Bad injector.
I replaced the injector 4 with a used Injector and the p0204 fault went but now the car will not start.
So I went ahead and discontent the 4th injector plug and it’s started strait up but when connected it will not start
aslo when the number 4 injector is Connected I get a new fault code p0213 (cold start injector 1) and when disconnected the code goes.
could the po213 code stop it from starting?? Is there a cold start injector If so where can I find it??
Any help would be appreciated Read more
Fuel injectors do need to be coded but not doing so will not prevent the engine from starting and running. Common rail fuel injectors are very precise, and no two will ever be exactly the same. There are at least three injection phases, pre, main, and post, as well as after for DPF regeneration. The injector testing equipment generates a hexadecimal code which must be entered into the ECM. This code is so the ECM kno2s how to correctly operate each injector. If it's not coded, or if the code is wrong then the engine will not perform to it's optimum, or may run unevenly, but it should still run.
Hi, I drove 141 miles into Scotland from England on more-or-less clear roads last week. According to the consumption and distance covered I achieved 64 mpg! I am amazed at that figure - I used stop-start and eco mode and used Shell v-power fuel and cruise control wherever practical. I also used drift where safe..
The return journey involved busier, wet, roads so consumption was just over 50 mpg,... Read more
I know that 73mph on a flat motorway for ten miles will easily give me 60mpg - so why not a 2.0 BMW with Efficient Dynamics?
Simple answer, your is a diesel and as you say 60 mpg in those conditions should be possible. But the OP's 2.0 BMW is a petrol which would make it impossible.
Hi.
I’m wondering what are people’s opinions on the Volvo V40 petrol engines?
Have been looking at 2cars in particular - one is a 2013 T3 1.6 150bhp and the other is a 2015 T2 2.0L 122bhp.
The 2013 version has a higher spec trim and lower mileage and is 2k cheaper.
Anyone driven both and can offer a comparison?
Thanks very much in advance. Read more
Given the weird way they made up this range, I was never sure whether the 2.0 was a N/A car, as it appears to be with only 124PS (essentially the same as the Mazda3 with its 2.0 N/A petrol engine [no longer shared since the divorce from Ford, just similar outputs]), though the V40's torque is 162 lbs-ft and 184 lbs-ft for the T2 and T3 (current, according to HJ's reviews section) compared to only 155 lbs-ft for the Mazda.
Oldly enough, the Mazda3 2.0 is 1 sec quicker to 60 than the V40 2.0 (8.8/8.9 vs 9.8). The 1.5 in the T2 is the same output and performance as the 2.0 in the same car, yet in the T3 its increased in both power and torque. All very confusing. Never mattered to me as when I was looking for the uprated T3, my local dealer (18 months ago) wasn't exactly willing to sell me on, only diesels....
This is an unbiased opinion, based on garage emission evidence. I have used a Broquet Fuel catalyst on a range of modern petrol cars and diesel 4x4s. At MOT, mechanics have been astonished at how low emissions from my vehicle have been. There is also a definite increase in power and torque as evidenced by less need to change into a lower gear. Unfortunately, the oil and motor trade have vested interests in bad-naming products that work well in increasing fuel economy and increasing the lifespan of motor engines. And the Broquet one does work very well, in my experience. Read more
I suppose a test carried out in 2001 is an improvement on 1990.... but I think this thread has reached the end of the road.
Thank you Weberman for taking the time to contribute, but this isn't the right place. Most of us are experiencced motorists who are only too glad to do what we can to reduce emissions: but our scepticism is inevitable given that if these devices could have been proved to work, the companies producing them wouldn't be insolvent.
Hi all,
Over the last month or so I’ve noticed that my Corsa C has developed a slight slapping/knocking noise after it’s got up to temperature, more so when accelerating . These cars do suffer with this sound on startup and mine is no exception however now it doesn’t disappear when the car warms up. It tends to get noticeably worse in corners or climbing up any sort of gradient. On a flat straight it sounds fine. Oil was done 5 months ago and the car has just ticked over into 70,000. Timing chain or tensioner related possibly? Cheers Read more
Can understand the noise increasing when climbing, but why on cornering - unless CV joints or drive shafts are wearing too?
If the oil pump is knackered as well, and the oil level is low.. difficulty in sucking up non existent oil...drop in oil pressure = noise
Over last 2 years have had various starting, cutting out and running problems.
First. Starting,engine needed long cranking period to start. Got more difficult and more frequent. Good dose of Easy Start effective, long Jump start usually worked. Replaced Fuel Rail Pressure Relief Valve. Solved.... Read more
Ditch the small hand held diagnostic tool.
unreliable results....
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Thanks for your reply, fingers crossed the part won't cost a fortune!!