June 2018
I was planning to buy a petrol (manual) 1.6GDI (67 plate) Hyundai Tucson.
I would prefer to go for the diesel from a torque perspective. However I just assumed the miles I do (short infrequent trips with occasional motorway journeys, with a total of 4-5k miles per year) would limit my choice to the petrol engine.... Read more
About 2 years ago I had a 307 with the 1.6hdi unit, this was the version with the Injectors at the front of the engine. All wasok until the usual problem with this engine occured, the Injector Seals. From my understanding of the cause centered on the injector mounting studs and incorrect servicing allowing
Aftrer 2 attempts at sorting the problem, I eventurally became sick and traded in on for my current car, which I am looking to swap later this year for a small SUV, a 2008/Captur or a C Max... Read more
My first venture into Diesel cars was a 309 with the 1.9 XUD non turbo, I did over 120k in 4 years. It eventually failed at 230k when a water return pipe burst and cooked the head, resulting in mayonaisse in the oil cap!.
I am condisidering a 3008 with the 1.6 unit, idealy with an auto box as I do a lot of town driving and dread the dual mass going. The 309 clutch was changed at 160k, so I would guess this would be the lifespan of the clutches....
A good friend who is approaching 73 had his reminder and declaration for the driving licence renewal.
The guidance said either complete on line or send the licence with a complete form.
Not wishing to send off his licence he attempted to send the health declaration on line but was refused when he pressed the send.
So in the end he reluctantly sent of his licence ahead of receiving his new one.
Has anyone an explanation for this ? Read more
I renewed at 70 last year and my wife at 73 this year - both times online. No issues whatsoever and fairly fast turnround..
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My temperature gauge isnt working, it either shows 6 bars (but only with engine off), once started it shows no bars at all. Ive replaced the sensor and found someone has already been bodging.
There are 4 pins, the original plug to the sensor has gone and there are 2 pins connected directly by spade connectors. 2 pins are now not connected.... Read more
Hi
The part i put the link for was to show the likeness not the exact listing for the van, The part i ordered was from GSF via number plate lookup and it is a four pin sensor. ...
Hi there, I have just done a job on my 2008 S-Max 2.0 TDCi and am on the final part, fitting a new drive shaft retaining bolt. It fits a 13mm socket but my Haynes manual says torque to 80Nm + 90 degrees, and my eBay manual (seems to be a Ford one) says 45Nm + 80 degrees. Trying to do a ‘proper job’ so would appreciate any advice. Thanks Read more
warning: long story...(for the short version, just read the text in bold)
I went to Kwik Fit on the 18th (farnham, Surrey) for my Fiat Panda's MOT. Afterwards, I was told by the front desk rep that my car had failed the emissions test. The rep automatically tried to book me in for a repair without any mention of costs. I asked about costs. The rep phoned HQ and then quoted (excluding labour and VAT?) £329 for a catalitic converter + £99 for a lambda sensor. He said it could be "one or the other". This was a lot of money, so I said I would need to think about it. The rep said I would need to decide soon as the "MOT technician would not be in next week" for any potential retest.
I arrived home and discussed the MOT with dad. We noticed various discrepancies in the MOT report:
misspelled numberplate, wrong engine capacity, and most importantly...
it had failed in the first fast idle test (lambda=1.038), but it had passed in the second fast idle test (lambda=1.030), and the report stated that the "overall result exhaust emissions test" was a "pass". But on the front page of the MOT report it said something like "hydrocarbon content exceeds limit", even though the hydrocarbon results were a "pass" on the emissions page.
I took photos of the MOT report, just in case.... Read more
I think that everything that needs to be said about this has now been said. Thread closed.
Hello all,
Thought I'd just share my recent experience of trying to organise the first service for my 2017 A4 avant 2.0 TFSI. It's just done 12.5k and the car is telling me it needs an oil service in 700 miles and an inspection in 6k (6 months in our mileage).
Thought I'd call the selling main dealer located in the newest city in Essex. No problem,
255.00 for the oil change
477.00 for the inspection 6 months down the line (not including oil / filter)
60.00 for a pollen filter (not included in the above)
Broekn down that was 112 for the oil 17 for the filter and 174.00 per hour labour.
Accepting that I have bought into what is perceived to be a premium brand I didn't expect cheap but never thought it would get this ridiculous.
Luckily 25 miles in the opposite direction the main dealer is doing it for 316 all in. Not cheap but having bought into a supposedly premium brand I can life with that once a year.
Think this may be my 5th and last Audi!
Read more
One of the many things I learned from a man who was my boss for a decade and has become very wealthy (Forbes Rich List level) out of running businesses ethically and for the long haul - ‘customer service is an attitude that everyone must excel at, it is not a department’. I tried to embed the same ethos in my own business but here in the UK is was tough finding talented people who could draw a link between their salary and a happy customer.
You can make a good living by providing goods at a fair price with good service. I buy canned and bottled beer at the local brewery. They sell beer from around the world. They cost more than Waitrose et al, but they have a massive range, and they give me honest recommendations, and yes they will say to avoid some which they think are not worth the money. Going there is an experience, an opportunity to chat and learn. And I am happy to support a local business. I also buy hockey kit at a shop rather than online, as they allow me to try items, and they know their products very well. Again, they will sometimes tell me not to buy something if they think it’s not worth the money. For example, there are some new skates costing £650, but he is suggesting that £400 ones would be just as good. It helps that I am financially secure I guess, but cheapest is not always best. As for car insurance, I buy the cheapest. I have no way to know which is best.
A friend who lives a long way from me has asked me the following question.
He want to remove the wheels.... Read more
Have one of these cars in the family. Very good car.
The wheel nuts hold the wheel trim on....
Fiesta 1.2 64 plate. I am a PDI and use this car for driving lessons. The cars done 24K has original discs (not much wear) Recent Ford pads nicely bedded in. Rear shoes half worn. The brakes especially when hot tend to be all or nothing. When pressed that little bit more to slow down more the brakes are on and grabbing hard, stopping the car on a sixpence - really vicious. Is there any way I can make the brakes less grabby? Cheaper pads? vented discs? Its not very good for learners!
... Read more
Sounds more like a master cylinder or servo problem than pads alone, doesn't sound like normal brake behaviour.
Please help. I started my car and had a esp service pop up on my display. My friend plug in he's diagnostic machine in and it said abs front wheel senor, we have changed it and cleared the fault but the fault reappeared again. Any ideas please Read more
As you have found out from your own experience,you ca't fix cars with fault codes only. Possible fault with the wiring,wheel bearing or abs control module.More testing needed.
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What I find amazing is how many people seemingly dismiss the large booted hatches, saloons and especially estates like the Octavia, Superb, prev. gen Civic and a whole raft of estates (or knwon by their posh names), many of which are far cheaper AND, because they are lower and more streamlined, far better on the mpg/handling front than MPVs and larger SUVs, which now attract a premium price.
Often these cars, as has been said, have a larger boot than the MPVs/SUVs, and when shod with all season tyres (or if you have storage space and need them, winter/summer tyre sets) are fine for rural use; some even have 4x4 systems available on some models if you want to drive on the muddy bit more often. Unless you live on a farm, then a proper 4x4 offroader isn't really required....