August 2012

mcros

RNS 510 in 2009 Golf GT failed exactly one month after expiry of vehicle warranty.

VW Main Dealer unable to fix after lengthy diagnostics and factory advice. Only solution was complete unit replacement at cost of £550 including goodwill dealer and VW discounts. I have pushed VW (via customer care route) for more contribution to cost on basis of sale of goods act "durability and fitness for purpose" conditions. Their response is they have offered maximum possible discount and any further cost reduction has to come from the main dealer - who now seem unwilling to up their contribution. Initially I thought the dealer was being very helpful, suggesting they were offering the bulk of the goodwill discount on their own account , but now it seems the reverse is true.... Read more

dadbif

(Duplicate post)

ib33

Hi, I have a problem with a 1995 Mercedes C class. All the electric windows don't work. Have checked the fuse and that is OK.

Any suggestions what to check next?... Read more

ib33

I tested output from control relays and they showed 12V, thought it could be something to do with electronics so decided to change whole control unit to check, but nothing changed. Each relay will click in, but windows totally dead. Sunroof is controlled from same unit works fine.

Apparantly I have been told that there is another relay in the engine compartment, so am trying to find out where it is....

mss1tw

Can the timing being slightly 'out' cause a diesel engine to run hot?

I ask as since the timing belt change recently my Berlingo has been getting 40 more miles to the tank and seems to run cooler!... Read more

mss1tw

Good point surreydriver - although the only timing the poor old Berlingo will have to think about now is microwave timers, as it's now probably a pallet of food cans. :(

maximus

ABS light has just come up on Almera. I've heard that you can test (without a meter), but, I cannot seem to find instructions online. I presume it may be a sensor. Both rear brakes are slightly binding - an easy fix, but if abs prob is expensive the car may not be worth fixing.

... Read more

maximus

Afraid old almera has been sent away. Now wife has a yaris auto-upside is that the yaris does about 15 mpg more than almera.

x-ray_sam

Wondering if anyone has a new i40 automatic and have they had any problems.

I took delivery of an i40 auto at the beginning of July and it broke down after three weeks. Could not select D,N,R from P. was repaired and after another two weeks same fault occurred.... Read more

Steamdrivenandy

That reminds me of the first time I came across a footbrake linked autobox back in '96. It was on a new Mondeo Estate and all my previous auto cars didn't have such a system. The salesman didn't tell me about the interlink and handed the car over with the engine running. I drove home, turned off the engine and couldn't restart it. It took 15 minutes scrabbling about 'til I found the relevant part of the handbook, placed my hoof on the brake and it started immediately.

And only the other day I had a panic when my wife's Yaris Verso wouldn't start until I realised the autobox lever was in 'D'. Doh!

hillman

I have the practice of wearing sunglasses while driving in strong light, and find that it rests my eyes. Often I’ve seen drivers peering into the sun in the afternoon and not seeming to know what the visors are for. That seems to me to be quite hazardous.... Read more

fredthefifth

Yes, I think it is the rack of the screen.

stitcher

i have a corsa sri 2005, have been having problems with maf sensor, it started when the car became sluggish or revs went too high, code was po100 for the sensor, had it replaced, new filter, cleaned out air system etc, and although some improvement was noticed it still doesnt pull right, sometimes even leaving me panicking at the junction !! and when trying to keep it at a steady speed it will either surge or pull back, horrid sensation, bit like riding a kangaroo !! it went back to the garage still coming up with sensor code, so tried another new sensor incase the first was faulty, code wiped etc but no change, sent to electrical engineers they ran through all they could think of, kept wiping the code and re running it, but it left them stumped !! now if you unplug the sensor it runs fine, and the only suggestion the garage has is to change the ecu, but i have read that it could be just a simple re earth of the sensor wire, however my garage are reluctant to do this in case they make things worse, but im not happy to pay out for a new ecu if it is just the earth wire, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, cheers Read more

able1

Read the thread; Vauxhall Corsa C - Mass Airflow problems 2005 1.2 sxi on this forum in Aug 2010;...

insurance guru

The 9 Best Kept Secrets your Insurer would not like you to Know.

1. The Courtesy Car. Many insurers offer a courtesy car if you use their “Approved Repair Centre” this would reasonably appear to something they pay for.  NOT TRUE. The cost is borne by the repairer with no additional revenue or supplement, so even before the repairer lays a hammer on your bent motor he has to recoup the cost of that car somehow.

2. The Insurer Approved Repairer. This is a garage who has agreed with an insurer in exchange for a supply of their policy holders damaged vehicles, to a stringent service level agreement which includes a range of free services and at a discounted rate, typically 30%  below normal high street rates. So every time you visit one, they will be paying back to your insurer a hefty chunk of your repair bill in discounts and rebates. Ask yourself who benefits from that? Also remember that you are not obliged to use them, as a policy holder its your choice who repairs your own vehicle, there are however a few exceptions to this rule, where its written in the small print. Approved Repairers will always try to the best they can but their hands are tied and they have split loyalties when it comes making decisions about how your car is repaired.

3. Repair Methods. Each time you visit an “Approved Repairer” the method of repair to your damaged vehicle will be strictly controlled by that insurer and every decision taken in that process will only be driven by one criteria and I’m sure you know by now what that will be. Exactly.. COST. Example:- Someone  has bumped into the back of your brand new car and now its at your insurer “Approved Repairer”. The bumper has a nasty crack in it and as we know all bumpers are designed to take a 5mph impact without sustaining damage so to protect you and your passengers it should be changed. But your “Approved Repairer” will be made to repair it so it looks good as new but obviously won’t be. Silly, as chances are, your insurer will get all the money back form the other insurer as it wasn’t your fault. But you’ll never know this.

4. New Parts.  A large number of insurers will instruct their “Approved Repairers” to fit NON-GENUINE parts to your vehicle and some of them do it without telling you. If you look closely in the small print you may see they reserve the right to fit “Equivalent  Parts” or parts of an equivalent quality. Reason being, obviously COST. When your car sustains damage you would want it put back to pre-accident condition and if FAKE parts are used that’s never going to happen. No one will guarantee that those parts will perform or deform in a subsequent accident exactly as the original equipment would. But you’ll never know this.

5. Insurer Paint Deal.  A large number of insurers have agreements with vehicle paint manufactures and insist that their “Approved Repairer” takes on that paint type and uses it to paint their policy holders vehicles in and yes you’ve guessed, every time one gets painted the insurer gets paid a rebate by the paint company. So in effect every time you crash they get paid. How does that benefit you?  

6. Total Losses.  You may find yourself in the situation where your vehicle, after an accident becomes beyond economical repair and deemed Total Loss. Hopefully your insurers will agree a reasonable settlement with you and you can buy a new car, but what happens to your old one. One would hope that your insurers dispose of it ethically but do they? Typically it will be sold to a major salvage company who will then sell in an online auction to the highest bidder and vehicles categorised C or D can be bought and repaired by anyone to any standard including cutting two cars in half and welding them together which is perfectly legal and put back on the road with no real checking or testing apart from a ‘Vehicle Identity Check’ done by VOSA which only confirms the chassis number matches the V5. Vehicles bought by eastern European countries can be taken away and repaired to be re imported with a new identity. Some insurers will even dispose of their CAT D total losses into various outlets and decide not to actually categorise them first. So when they are repaired and sold they appear “Clean”. So if you buy a second hand car be sure to get it checked thoroughly first.

7. Insurers & Accident Management Company’s.  Insurers are now increasingly referring their own policy holders, for a referral fee, to accident management companies on discovering they have been involved in a non fault accident. This then results in the accident management company hiring the policy holder a like for like vehicle and arranging repairs and advising them of their rights to claim compensation for any personal injuries sustained in the accident. The cost of all this then goes to the “at fault” insurer resulting in a much higher bill for them and a commission coming to the clients own insurer who in turn will charge their own policy holder extra on their premium next year because they have been involved in an accident.

8. Claims & Underwriting Exchange.   This is a secret list compiled and kept updated by all UK insurers with details of every motor claim including policy holders name and vehicle registration and date of incident and if there is any personal injury involved. So when you come to renew your motor policy and forget to mention that last incident you were involved in even though it wasn’t your fault, your new insurer will still put you on cover and take your money but should you make a claim they may throw it out when they check the CUE.

9. Insurer’s Penalty Excess.   Some insurers will charge you an additional insurance excess if you exercise your right to use your own repair centre to repair your vehicle. They should however point this out to you at the inception of the policy as it is NOT a normal caveat and as such should be brought to your attention when you buy the policy, If it is not that could be MIS-SELLING. So be extra careful when buying on-line and check that you are able to use your own repairer, otherwise you could be faced with an extra unwanted bill. Insurers that do this include Aviva Direct, Esure, Sheila’s Wheels and Swift Cover. Read more

1litregolfeater

How about this then to set your kilt on fire.

1....

Kaison

Hello,
I've got a 2000 Mercedes A190.
It's been having trouble starting for the last month. - It's not all the time but it seems to be random when it does and doesn't work.

I've checked voltage at the starter under cranking with the key and reads near battery voltage. (Red lead on the multi-meter on Purple and white wire by the positive terminal and the black lead on battery earth. - Key on crank position.)

It's a semi auto transmission and I have been told it cold be the "starter inhibitor switch", I've tried to locate this and I believe I have, but I'm unsure. - When I remove the gearstick and gaiter, there is what looks like a cylindrical black item, connected to the gearstick via a little black shaft. And on the cylinder, there is a 3 wire connector. I'm unsure if this is the item I'm supposed to be looking at, regardless if that 3 wire connector is connected, the dash still shows which gear I am in, it reads neutral when in neutral and vice versa. - If I were to check those3 pin connections, am I right in going in red wire at each point and black on battery earth with my multimeter to check resistance?

Any help would be great.

I'm also assuming it isn't a relay as battery voltage is going to the starter? - Also there is no solenoid clicking, but I have read this is normal for this class of Mercedes?

Regards,
Kaison Read more

elekie&a/c doctor

Power to the purple/white wire is the crank signal.Looks like you have the dreaded "A class starter motor failure syndrome".Real pig of a job to change.Access requires the back of engine to be dropped.hth

izzybee

Be very careful if thinking about a motability car as it may not be as good a deal as you think for the following

You don't get a NCD and may loose your insurance claims discount if you have a motability car over 3 years [I found out the hard way]... Read more

bonzo dog

resulting in UK PLC having to pay benefits to unemployed who lost their jobs as a result of jobs being exported to China

The manufacturing jobs were lost, in the main, due to UK industries becoming uncompetetive. ...