August 2012
Hi Everyone
I have just joined this forum so I do apologize in advance if I have put my enquiry in the wrong section or anything else I have done wrong.
I just purchased a 2001 1.4SE A2 with 67K on the clock.
There is no service history.
I noticed when I drove away with it a tappety noise. It got a little louder and quicker as I accelerated however when I put my foot off the accelerator the tappety noise goes away.
When it is idle the tappety noise is still there however it is not very loud but you can hear it.
Is this normal?
I had a 1.4i Honda Civic before this and it did not make this noise thats why it concerned me.
The problem is that I took it to a number of independant garages but all came back with different diagnosis which is causing me a major problem as I do not know who to turn to and I do not want to end up with the same problem after paying for the work.
1. First one said the tappets need changing aswell as the camshaft
2. Second one stated the tappets only need a clean and an oil change
3. Third one said it needs a flush and oil change
4. Fourth one said the bottom end is gone so uneconomical for repair
5. Fifth one said the timing of the tappets is out of place with the camshaft so just need adjusted
6. Sixth one said the timing belt needs chaged and the tensioner belts (previous owener said its been done however I have no proof that it has been and it was something I was going to change anyway)
I have checked the oil which is fresh then again the previous owner did say it was servived in June and since then only done a few hundred miles.
As you can see I have been given a number of solutions but I really do not know anything about what they have said.
I bought the car for £2000 and the thought of major repairs is giving me a headache.
I wish I noticed the engine noise whilst checking the car but I guess I just got caught up in the excitement of purchasing my first A2 which I have been sourcing for a while.
Any help or pointers will be greatly apprecaited. Read more
I have a choice between a new 508 SW 2.0 HDi 163 automatic and a new Passat 2.0 TDi estate DSG automatic. The Peugeot appeals to me more. However I need good reliability. Is the 508 SW a sound choice? Would the Passat prove a better option, if so, why? Thanks Read more
If it's a company car - Peugeot 508. Looks nicer, very good interior, more unusual, but will not be as economical (auto is a traditional sort)
If it's a private purchase - Passat. Residuals will be higher, more economical, dependable, less to tax, but dull interior (which is where you spend your time)
Hi all,
I bought a mk5 golf 1.9tdi a few months back and now I'm wondering if anyone knows for sure whether it can run on 100% biodiesel. I have a local company who are offering biodiesel pre-treated and delivered to my door for £1 per litre.... Read more
Thanks for that, makes a lot of sense and no, it wasn't a long post - just very interesting and informative!!
Robin the Technician - I fix, therefore I am
Does my 2002 jeep Cherokee 2.5 crd have a timing belt or chain? If belt when should this be replaced? Car has just hit 60k miles.
I have also noted a squeaking sound coming from the right hand wheel when turning at slow speeds ~20 mph. Local garage have looked at brakes, no problems at all, in excellent condition... Any ideas???
Thanks Luke Read more
Hi,
It will be a VM engine but the previous answer is wrong. It has a timing belt and it should be changed at 60,000m along with tensioner and idler pulleys....
Earlier in 2012 I purchased a Nissan Patrol GE SE 4x4 (1998), for £3K with just 74K Miles, for farm and forestry work. It has been serviced and MOT'd. It appears to be lacking power in low revs which has been diagnosed as a possible Actuator issue (also called tail-gate?), a part I have not managed to source.... Read more
The same problem used to affict the Vauxhall Omega with the BMW diesel engine, that was coased by a worn pump, there is a mod for them that puts them into cold stard mode for a few seconds until they have started but ultimately a replacement injection pump is needed, I wonder if its the same pump?
On this car (semi-automatic with an automated clutch), if you left-foot brake with the throttle open, there is an almighty thud from the transmission, the engine unwinds to idle (c. 1000 rpm) and refuses to answer the throttle pedal for a good 30 seconds.
The selling garage's service chap said, 'why would you want to brake whilst accelerating?' to which I replied 'to keep the engine alive whilst shaving a little bit off the speed', but they would not accept that. OK, it looks a little odd on the face of it but I always found LF braking faster and safer on my 51-reg Mondeo, plus I really do not appreciate being left without the power to get away from a (hypothetical) 32-tonner standing on his brakes just behind me. Can I reject the car as not fit for purpose on those grounds?
Read more
Heated though it became, I appreciate this thread. We have a new C4 eHDi. Several times I've been caught - in flat, sedate, town driving - with the engine in what is colourfully called 'sulk' or limp mode here. Once it nearly caused an accident; other times I've worried the car would snap out of the sulk and accelerate violently. The only cure I've found seemed to be to depress the brake fully - and I was attributing the issue to a problem with stop-start system.
I think I better understand the issue as an interactive one. In town driving I unconsciously find myself sometimes balancing the forward motion by little braking in between accelerating. I barely knew I did it - but remember I developed a left foot usage working the ancient clutch on my old DS21, then must have carried that over to the Subaru 1999 wagon we had - especially on hill starts - whose standard automatic transmission could handle left foot braking occasionally overlapping with gentle right foot acceleration.
I think I'll eliminate the stop-start theory by switching off the ECO mode and proving that the problem can be deliberately generated.
But I'm grateful to the posters here for giving this mechanical/electronic illiterate up the language to talk about the problem with a service mechanic, and some reassurance that I'm not imagining the problem or experiencing something irrational or unique to my car.
Hi all,ive started to get a continuos knocking noise the faster you go the quicker it gets from the rear of my vectra c its coming from the passenger side,when you hit the brake it goes then when you excellerate again it comes back its been like it for a couple of months now,any ideas please............ive recently changed brake pads and discs allway round replaced both rear hub bearings an its still there and its getting really anoying now.........thanks glyn.... Read more
Hi all thanks for your help,brilliant 2 new rear upper control arms and its gone nice smooth quiet drive again,thanks again messa...............
My Skoda Fabia 1.9 SDI had vibrations though the Steering Wheel when Braking Softly at low speeds. There was no vibration through the Brake Pedal. I was advised to get my Discs and Pads Changed so I got this done and the Vibrations are still there. There is also a clunking noise when I hit a bump and the Front left tyre is worn on the inside each. Anyone any ideas whats causing this?
Thanks Read more
Have you checked the lower ball joint for play?
Broken spring, might look OK but a piece might of fallen off, try counting number of coil turns on both sides. Don't think this would cause tyre wear....
Hi I was wondering about purchasing an economical car and one has been offered to me. Honda Civic 1.4i VTech . Trouble is the mileage is very high at 160000. I am only going to need it for a short period of time and the person is selling it for £600 , It comes with full service history . I would love to hear anyone's opinions , Read more
Not quite, IIRC the Acclaim was a 4 door Civic. At the time you couldn't get a 4 door Civic but the interiors of the Acclaim and 3 door Civic were virtually the same. Similar front grille too.
The Ballade was indeed a later 213/216 clone (or vice versa)...
Hi,
For a few months I've had a problem with my heating in my 1997 Ford Ka. Whatever I set the temperature dial to, it has no effect on the air tempurature. As far as I can tell it's just feeding through cold air without any heating whatsoever.... Read more
You need to put a test light or meter across the two wires.One wire is ignition supply and the other is a switched pulsed earth return from the heater control panel.hth
Ah I see I thought it was just some sort of positive pulse so was holding it to an earth! Now that I've done it correctly, I can see that the signals are indeed being generated as they should be. I.e. 12V with a drop down pulse every few seconds at 50% on the thermostat control....


Hi. Did you find an answer. I have the same problem with my A2 engine.
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