July 2012
My VW Passat wouldn't move due to 'parking brake fault' and had to tow it to authorised dealer in Southampton(Peter Cooper) as normal garages were not able to decipher the error code using their devices. I could hear the motor rev on one of the sides not on the other. They say that brake calipers needs to be replaced and that will cost around £600! Is this reasonable? I am suspicious as they charged me around £500 for cam belt replacement just a few weeks ago(later realised that other VW authrosied guys in Basingstoke quoted £380 for the same work! ). I would like to know what you guys think.
Thanks Read more
I've had a 5th occurrence of what appears to be a straightforward bad-connection problem on the starter motor. Can anyone offer advice? Is this a common Shogun fault? Have I misdiagnosed the root cause?
The engine refuses to crank on the starter motor, although the panel lights go out, the interior light dims and the battery voltage dips to about 10 volts. No obvious solenoid "Clack" is audible. Removing the solenoid connection (spade terminal) from the starter & connecting the voltmeter to it - you get 12 volts when the starter key is turned. Reconnecting the solenoid & putting the voltmeter onto the starter-side large terminal gives about 10 Volts when the key is turned. Access to this terminal is really difficult with the starter motor on the car, so on each occasion the fault has occurred, I have removed it at this point. This is easier said than done, needing about two and a half feet of socket extension pieces and a UJ to remove the upper bolt.
On each occasion, the starter-side large terminal (the one switched by the solenoid) has been overheated & burnt. Giving this connection a good clean has cleared the fault each time. The starter motor tests ok, giving a good "clack" when the solenoid connection is energised. On the first happening & again last time, I completely stripped the motor, checking for worn brushes or any signs of cracking, but it all looked fine. The last time, I also renewed the nut since there was slight corrosion of the steel.
I realise some of my fault description appears to contradict itself....and this may be a clue to why I haven't solved it. The battery voltage is being pulled down to 10v, suggesting the motor is drawing current, but there isn't an audible "clack" when the solenoid energises & the motor doesn't turn.
Five times I've been lucky that it's let me down at home, since it would be almost impossible to fix at the roadside. It did it today only 2 months after the last time. Can anyone help me get to the bottom of this?
Many thanks
John Read more
I did have a strange fault on my sons pickup where the starter operated intermittently, by complete accident I found that although the terminals were tight one of them was not making contact. I only found this when I shorted the tag to the bolt and it sprung into life. I can only conclude that some electrolytic action had turnd the surface into an insulator/semiconductor, a good clean cured the problem.
I wonder if anybody has encountered my problem and can offer advice. My passat recently developed a problem, when I started the engine it died almost immediatly. This would occur maybe 2--- to 6 times then would run no bother. When it occured the one indicator was that the glow plug? pre-heater? symbol would show on the dash. I left it into a garage and they put it on diagnostics and that indicated the ignition switch was faulty, what puzzled me was that the glow plug was the constant indicator. Has anybody encountered this problem and if I do replace the ignition switch does that solve my problem. I bought new in 2006 --- 60,000 on clock. Read more
Sounds like you have the model where the key fob is inserted into the dash & there is no actual key. The steering lock then has to be actuated by an electric motor driven pin, mouinted on the steering column. So you now have a relatively compliated system replacing a tried & tested key & steering lock, brilliant.
If you follow the link below to a thread on VWAUDI Forum there are instructions on how to make a DIY repair....
Anyone who has had dealings with Glasgow Motor Company should contact Strathclyde Police on 0141 532 1011
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I may be wrong (it has occasionally happened) but this complex is the result of an old established trader semi-retiring and instead of running the site, rented out space (the complex is deceptively large) to a number of traders, good and bad. While Jimmy Doyle is a chancer of the highest order, just because GMC (now folded) had the biggest sign, they didn't even rent the whole place. A few break away and start-up traders have got caught up in this mire.
Get a "High Battery Drain" on start upon the morning and have lost Bluetooth ability in the car. After running for a couple of minutes the sign goes away and nothing appears in the Fault Finder. Just spent £200 having the car "diagnosed" at a garage to be told they can't find anything wrong. They changed the battery for a new one but the following morning the High Battery Drain re-appeared. I'm at. Loss as to what to do and would really appreciate any guidance and comments from guys who have had a similar experience. Read more
Had
Internet Exploder strikes again.
Had to have a new battery on our 1 series, luckily under warranty. BMW''s must have the correct batter fitted and it has to be programmed into the ECU. If you don't the car does not know its a battery thus still shows a fault....
just been reading on here about turbo problems on 1.6 tdci ,my son has on one of these and had two turbos go, one only done 25 miles and disintegrated, was fitted by a reputable garage, but they didnt want to know, so i did some research on the subject and found that when you disconnect the oil feed pipe to the turbo and crank the engine over for ten secs it should put out something like 300mls of oil, it was only putting out one third of what it should, so i removed the lower banjo bolt on the oil supply pipe drilled out the wire gauze in it and repeated the test, it put out gallons of oil, car has now done around 15,000 and is fine now, hope this helps someone. Read more
Hi David just wondering if you ever got the tsb on replacment turbo? I have just bought a ford focus and would like to take preventive action!
If possible could you email it to me at michaelpjmahon@gmail.com...
Hi all,
Anyone have any idea what kind of job it is to fit a new vacuum actuator/unit on the inlet manifold ?
Apparently there's a diaphram in this that splits and a new part is only about £10 ish .
It is attached to the front side of the inlet manifold ( so I am informed )
It looks like a possible cure for intermittant underboost and stuttering.
Many thanks Read more
The part number for the vacuum unit on a BMN engine is 03G 129 061 C, about £12 from any VAG dealer.
I have an 09 Ford C-Max; 1.8 petrol vehicle which has a problem with the idling speed when re-starting the car after it has been parked for an hour or so. When starting from cold in the mornings, the engine rpm is about 1100rpm and normal idle speed seems to be about 750rpm. However, if the car is used for a while and then parked for between 1 and 3 hours, on restarting the car the idle revs drop down to 500rpm at which the car is struggling. At this problem speed, dabbing the accelerator pedal has no effect, the revs refuse to increase and only depressing the accelerator pedal hard down will force the revs up. On occasion the engine will just cut out at the low revs. Sometimes the speed will oscillate between 750rpm and 500rpm. The dealership where I purchased the car have no idea how to cure this, they have cleaned the accelerator sensor but this had no effect. I would appreciate some advice as to what could be causing this problem.
Ford C-Max - Idling Speed Problem
I have an identical vehicle (09 C-Max 1.8 petrol), same age, with the identical problem. Car has been back 5 times, once for a whole week and recently for another 2 days. I am assured it is an isolated problem not known to Ford! Throttle housing and plugs have been replaced and on last visit fuel cleaner was used as it was thought the problem was a sticking valve caused by the low mileage - 16000. Still doing it! Would really appreciate someone throwing some light on this as it is spoiling an otherwise great car, and getting a little irritating!
I purchased a Mar 2011 Avensis 1.8 Tourer only 6 weeks ago. In recent weeks the steering has become heavy at times. This is especially true at Start up for the first 5-10 seconds. Also when moving into sharp car parking space The steering went heavy for the first quarter turn while the power steering motor kicked in you could hear the noise.
Going into Listers Coventry on Tuesday, i do hope they cover under warranty it not done 10K.... Read more
Well Toyota Listers very helpful. Failed to diagnose the problem but offer to fit a new Column as part of warranty. Sounds a little odd to me Also see this article from Toyota owners club
www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopi...2
Aircon is not working. Light is on but compressor not kicking in. I have replaced the evaporator sensor and pollen filter. The outside temp sensor reads ok and the passenger temp sensor fan runs and I have had it and cleaned it just in case.
I had the aircon gas recharge at Kwikfit fit. It detected no leaks and says the system takes 650g and it only had 75g in it so was nearly empty (there may be decimal point in there somewhere) still the aircon didn't work. They put a diagnostic on it and it stated "compressor coupling open circuit" and they thought this was a break or electrical problem at the pump connector or circuit. They cleared all codes. To be fair to them they tried everything but couldnt get to the compressor wiring connector even on a ramp. Fuses are ok in the car but do not know which fuse or relay it is in the engine bay but as everything else works and the fans don't think it's the fuses.
What else can I check, it is very frustrating. Do I take it to a specialists aircon or diagnosis company or to the dreaded Renault?
My econd problem is the same as other posts, temp on cool up to 25 and hot only at 26. Changed the evaporator sensor, still no joy.
Help please! Fenando, I hope you are still posting..... Read more
I am even more confused now! he checked the refrigererant and said it was empty and I must have a leak. Topped it up, same fault code, cleared it, still no aircon. He said there was dye in the refrigerent but he could detect no leaks with an ultraviolet light and although the machine pressure tests the system he said they are not very good at detecting leaks unless they are massive! He said that the diagnostic system was showing a signal going to the compressor from the ECU (Presumably this is the climate control computer) and still thinks therefore that there is a break in the circuit. I have tried to trace the green cable but it was impossible. I checked the pins at the back of the climate control unit for the pressure sensor and this was showing 5v which I believe is the correct voltage for the pressure sensor. I also did a continuouity test from the compressor control pin direct to the green earth cable at the compressor and got continuoity which really threw me!
When i got home I ran a new cable from the green earth wire at the compressor, via a switch, to the negative on the battery. With the engine running I can switch the compressor clutch on and off and I finally get nice cold air. Not the best workaround but a temporary remedy. With the aircon then working does this mean the pressure switch has to be ok or could I have bypassed it with my workaround? Is there any way to check the pressure switch once and for all. If you have already answered this and I missed it i apologise!
Browse
It's not an unknown problem on the Passat, usually caused by the plastic cover over the caliper electrics having cracked & let in water & carp. Can usually be fixed DIY for £0 by dismantleling, cleaning & greasing, then repairing the cracked casing. But you are stuck between a rock & a hard place, immovable car stuck in the dealers. I belive the electrical mechanism that bolts to the back of the caliper & usually where the fault lies isn't available separately, so have to pay for the complete caliper assembly.