I've had a 5th occurrence of what appears to be a straightforward bad-connection problem on the starter motor. Can anyone offer advice? Is this a common Shogun fault? Have I misdiagnosed the root cause? The engine refuses to crank on the starter motor, although the panel lights go out, the interior light dims and the battery voltage dips to about 10 volts. No obvious solenoid "Clack" is audible. Removing the solenoid connection (spade terminal) from the starter & connecting the voltmeter to it - you get 12 volts when the starter key is turned. Reconnecting the solenoid & putting the voltmeter onto the starter-side large terminal gives about 10 Volts when the key is turned. Access to this terminal is really difficult with the starter motor on the car, so on each occasion the fault has occurred, I have removed it at this point. This is easier said than done, needing about two and a half feet of socket extension pieces and a UJ to remove the upper bolt. On each occasion, the starter-side large terminal (the one switched by the solenoid) has been overheated & burnt. Giving this connection a good clean has cleared the fault each time. The starter motor tests ok, giving a good "clack" when the solenoid connection is energised. On the first happening & again last time, I completely stripped the motor, checking for worn brushes or any signs of cracking, but it all looked fine. The last time, I also renewed the nut since there was slight corrosion of the steel. I realise some of my fault description appears to contradict itself....and this may be a clue to why I haven't solved it. The battery voltage is being pulled down to 10v, suggesting the motor is drawing current, but there isn't an audible "clack" when the solenoid energises & the motor doesn't turn. Five times I've been lucky that it's let me down at home, since it would be almost impossible to fix at the roadside. It did it today only 2 months after the last time. Can anyone help me get to the bottom of this?
Many thanks
John
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