July 2012
I have been experiencing loss of power (car acceleration is bad, RPM meter goes to 35 just to change into second gear which was never the case before). Took the car to the dealer and they hooked the gearbox computer to the scanner. The following faults were detected :
DF016: final drive solenoid drive valve circuit
DF036: pressure modulation solenoid valve circuit
DF018: reduction slip
DF109: engine torque multiplexed info.
Based on the faults codes, they suggested that I change the pressure switch and the multifunction switch which will cost a lot.
Will changing these two items guarantee that I will get back the power and that the gearbox will shift as smoothly as it used to before? I don't want to pay the money needed for this and then get another request to change some other items as something else is the problem... Read more
These wheels are usually the recommended option for high-performance sports cars but that does not mean you can't fit them on any other car. Relatively, cast aluminum alloys are heavier but they are less expensive and yet have almost the same design as that of made materials. Read more
Definitely read the fine print before you buy the extended car warranty. No one likes being surprised! And if you aren't allowed to read the warranty terms? Walk away.
Read more
It's amazing how much power these cars have. I wonder what it would be like driving one of these down town. Read more
Hi,
I'm thinking of buying a nice, clean 2003 -2008 model Honda Accord. I'm just wondering whether to go for petrol or deisel. Am I right in thinking that these Honda deisel engines were made by Isuzu and were a bit crap. That is, not up to the reliability standard of Honda's own petrol engines?... Read more
Thanks for the opinions and link to the Accord site, that's a useful resource.
Reading around and doing some sums, it would cost me and extra £363/year in fuel costs to go with the petrol engine. (2 litre V-Tech versus 2.2 DTi) ...
I have an oil leak on my vauxhall Omega 2.0 estate 1996. It only seems to leak when the engine is turned off. It leaks from around the oil filter although the oil filter is tightly secure.
Any ideas on this please.
Read more
Hi All,
My daughters car has suddendly stoppped locking the petrol flap when the car is locked with the key fob.... Read more
Many thanks for your reply
I have removed the fuel flap operating unit ,given it a good clen and a spray (connections and operating rod with silicone and refitted it....
Hi Guys, i really need some assistance. Currently got a C5 hdi which is pretty good in transporting the children around, however would like some more power. I've come from a youngster driving performance motors to a 31 year old father of 2 driving gutless transport. But the TD's have transformed over the years and wondered what your suggestions were. A VW would seem the ideal solution but outpriced by demand, ideally a 130 or 150 TDI would be good, any ideas? Read more
A single repair bill on any modern diesel engine could cost more than you paid for the car, if you are on such a tight budget and you are a family man sometimes things like cars have to go on the back-burner, if your current car is reliable then stick with it! £1,600 is not a lot of money - the likelihood of getting a decent diesel for the money is slim. If you must risk it, you might get lucky with a looked-after Mondeo 2.0 TDCI 130, not the last word in refinement but they are punchy, pretty reliable and fun to drive.
I brought a new Mazda 3 in 2009. The vehicle has always been serviced on time and by the main dealer. At the third anniversary service the dealerships advised me that there was a noise coming from the gearbox. When questioned they could not be any more specific only saying that they needed the car in the garage for at least a week to remove the gearbox and investigate further and the cost would likely run into thousands. Is a con-incidence that the warranty expired at it 3 years old!! Mazda UK have offered to pay 75% of the cost but could not give me any idea how long or even an estimate on the cost.
I have been to a transmission specialist locally who was able to diagnose the issue within 2 mins (shot bearing) and also advised that he would be doing the work as Mazda send all the gearboxes to him. Also provided an estimate of £500-600, considerably less than Mazda and would only need the car for a day.... Read more
If you have owned the car from new you may have a claim under the sale of goods act against the selling dealer.
...
hi, can anyone help,just started haveing problems with what i think is the battery.i took a trip to the tip yesterday & after getting back in the car there was no power,so ihad to jump start & everything fine untill my next destination about 5 miles & then the same again.had to jump start.i manged to get home & charge up the battery & make a short trip and back home & switch the ignition off & restart battery flat again,so charged up battery again & left over night & try again in the morning & it started up fine.so any help where to start would be great,looking in the haynes manual it says about the sealed battery indicator & says if its on black then it should be charged,is charging now but cant seem to get it on to green,i have no warning lights comeing on dashboard about fault with battery or alternator .thanks & look forward to some help. Read more
A battery test under load is quick and easy and any local garage should be able to do it.
The battery has failed- or it is not being charged. It takes quite a few miles to fully charge a low battery....


I once had a bad experience with my car warranty when my car broke down due to overheating. If I had only known about Warranty Wrap before...