December 2011
I recently had the check engine light come on flashing and the engine running rough. I drove home, about 30 miles then put the car into a local independent garage. A faulty coil pack was diagnosed, using a computer hooked up to the car, and replaced. The car is now running well but the check engine light is now on steady at all times when the ignition is on. The mechanic tried to reset it using the computer without success because the oxygen sensors are indicating an emissions fault. He suggested to leave it for a few days then try the car on the emissions tester if the light is still on. I suspect that the catalytic converter and or sensors may be affected by the unburnt fuel due to the misfire. I've have done about 20 miles over 2 days since the coil pack was replaced and the light is still on. Does anyone have any ideas on this?
Since the coil pack was replaced and the attempted reset of the engine light the alarm has also been affected. A few seconds after switching off the ignition a warning is diplayed that the interior alarm has been deactivated. A few hours after locking the car the main alarm becomes disabled and the car can only be opened by using the key in the lock. It seems like the car is in a factory mode where the alarm is automatically disabled after a period to prevent false alarms and discharged battery during transort and storage. I sure I can get this fixed relatively easily by a ford dealer but if anyone knows a home fix please advise.... Read more
I am currently looking at changing car and fancy something that is reliable, nice to drive and has decent specification levels and economy.
After spending a few days narrowing the list down, I have come to a shortlist that includes the Audi and Honda. However, I cant decide which one I prefer the most and which one I would be happy living with, so thought I would get some opinions.... Read more
Honda's CDTI certainly has a few issues, but no more or less than most other 'modern' diesels. I suggest you research well. Plenty of forums available for you to browse on the net
I am really at my wits end with this vehicle and could do with some advice!! I really want to know if people think i have a right 2 complain.. (although im not sure who 2)
First problem started after I had the vehicle for 6 months (purchased 2 years ago)... Read more
Yawn, 241,000 on a variable vane turbo on a 110BHP 1.9 VW TDI, run on tractor oil & generally worked hard.
But, I I kept oil topped up, and changed it at 5k on straight mineral, and at 10k when switched to semi synth. And always treated with a modicum of respect....
I do less miles these days (car last used on Monday), jumped in my car this morning and hey presto flat battery, I've taken it off and the status light indicates RED, does this mean the battery is knacked and needs replacing or would using a battery charger fix the problem, I have looked around on the net, a lot of advice is american and car specific.
The battery is a sealed unit of unknown age.... Read more
My sealed Motorcraft battery was stil working after ten years.
Can anybody help me? I bought a used 57 plate crv ctdi from a Honda dealer, steering always felt a bit odd but at first put it down to the size of vehicle after a few months i noticed the steering wheel was jerking when waiting at a junction on half lock or when going around a round about. I took it to the dealer who diagnosed it as a steering rack fault they replaced the rack under warranty and all was fine, handling was much bettter with no kick back from the steerring wheel. Two and a bit months later the fault has returned and dealer sais it needs another new steering rack! I am very worried this will happen again when the warranty expires and leaves me with a huge bill (the rack alone is £1400) can anybody give me any infomation about this fault and have honda done anything to improve the replacement racks? Read more
Hi Craig
I seem to have a very similar issue I'm trying to resolve. I would really appreciate knowing how you sorted yours out...
My wife recently bought a 2005 Zaf A. It came with no manual, but I just found a PDF of it which seems to say the rear tyres should be at 46psi when fully laden. But the databases used by tyre companies say the max laden pressure is 30-something!
This matters because the tyres fitted say "max pressure 44psi", and I guess if they are not suitable for the recommended pressures then she has a claim against the dealer...?... Read more
My wife had a new Zafira diesel on a 52 plate, there was never a sticker for tyre pressures, either in the fuel flap or around the doors. You had to read the handbook, difficult I know, if you don't have one! They were 32psi all round on that one, I can't recall the max load spec.
The Zafira "B" diesel she has now,also has no sticker, are they just a myth? Anyway, the 58 plate one has 35f and 32r, and full load or towing the van, it goes to 38lbs front and 45 rear, so if you need full load pressures, I guess you have to fit tyres which can go that high....
In a nutshell, my engine has started to develop a worrying ticking / clicking noise that is very prominent when doing between 40 and 50mph. in this video i caught it while idling but it isn't always there when idling, i think just when the engine is cold. i have a youtube video of the problem noise:
... Read more
Could be an exhaust manifold leak - at any joint or a broken pipe. Check carefully for escaping gasses.
Hi, I'm really confused so I hope someone can help me.
The other week my car understeered into a field (4AM and foggy/icy). I had to call the breakdown cover that I bought with my insurance to recover the car as its little trip off road buckled a wheel on a rock and has caused an electrical short somewhere meaning the engine wouldn't start and because of where it ended up they had to lift it over a wall to remove it.... Read more
Hello watch, surely a claim is just that, a claim! If your insurance company haven't paid anything out, then it is not a claim. Therefore, you would not declare having not made a claim to any potential insurer. Your present insurer may load your premium on the basis that it is aware of your accident and therefore your risk is now higher, but a new insurer is unaware of your accident and it should not be on record as a claim. Morally there may be a dilema here, but legally you have no claims to declare, if that is the question put to you in the proposal form.
Your decision now, but you can only answer questions put you unless there is a clause which stipulates you should disclose any material information which may affect your insurer. Who decides what is material and what is not? Personally if you have an otherwise excellent driving record and this is a one off I would say nothing. Good luck. Concrete
Car rental group Avis has ordered 500 MG6 cars. Read more
unthrittled,
I suppose that when compared to a benchmark of seven, five hundred is a boom......
hi ,have a vectra hatch,sri,2000cc,1996.has aphilips 400 original radio,which is wired up to alarm system,i put in modern radio & my remote locking system did not work,so put old radio back.apart from taking to dealers,how do i get round this problom.ed. Read more
when fitting a non factory radio to these,the power supply leads need to be modified.Usually the permanent power and igniton power wires need to be swapped.hth
hi,thanks ,done that last time,but central locking remote would not work.
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In case it helps anyone in the future I can now update on the resolution to the two problems in my original post. The car is a Mk ll Focus Ghia with the 1.6L Ti-VCT 115PS engine.
Check Engine Light: The CEL didn't go out on it's own so after about 1 week I returned the car to the garage for further investigation. They cleaned the spark plugs, checked the exhaust emissions and found them to be OK to MOT requirements, then reset the CEL to off. However at the next engine start the light came back on. (I later found out that it takes two engine start cycles for this fault to be registered by the engine management computer.) I decided to investigate myself and found that the wiring of the Heated Oxygen Sensor No. 2 (the after-CAT sensor) on Bank 1 (for cylinders 1 and 2) of the catalytic converter had made contact with the CAT, burning throught the insulation resulting in an intermittent short circuit between one of the sensor heater wires and chassis. Fuse F33 (10A) in the engine fuse box was blown. I found that on this car F33 supplies +12V to the heaters on all four oxygen sensors and not just two of the four as stated in the Owner's Guide supplied with the car. Also, the fault codes generated by this fuse blowing relate only to the two pre-CAT sensors....