December 2011
Bought a 54 plate this morning for £2400. 102,000 miles, only previous owner was a lease/hire firm, and this guy had owned it since they sold it.
Drives well, couldn't find any knocks/rattles, didn't seem to smoke, it's not fast but it pulls well lower down the rev range, 35mph in top gear no problems.... Read more
Could use some help on following problem.
When fan switch in position 1 or 2, fan does not run but A/C switch light is ON.... Read more
I would suggest the fan speed resistor is at fault.Sits behind glovebox.Part costs around £30,but if I recall ,it is cheaper from VW.hth
I wonder if anyone has any experience of them.
Going away for a few days and the savin is not big so wonder if it is worth it.... Read more
Thanks concrete for the tip especially on the axcess insurance. Used to hire loads of cars and used to get the CDW free
I am going to Portugal for a few days and hiring a car first time for ages....
Just putting the word out there for Sirion owners to take a look at your rear tyres for unusual wear.
The rear tyres on my 2008 Sirion 1.5 SX M303 model were scrubbing off on one edge, and this should not happen because the rear wheels have no adjustment and are set to parallel - they just get pulled along by the front wheel drive.
There is a fault with a certain batch of Sirions that had incorrect rear axles installed at manufacture which is putting the rear wheels out of alignment. The only way to have it checked properly is by visiting a Daihatsu dealership and they will check the chassis number and do an alignment check. If it fails Daihatsu should rectify it.
My vehicle was one of the "bad" ones and Daihatsu stepped without hesitation and replaced the rear axle and rear dampers, and incidentally my vehicle was outside it's warranty period too. The original axle is a curved one and a new straight one is installed and this then requires new dampers because the others don't fit the new axle.
I am a very happy guy because it cost me nothing, and I got new dampers on the rear as well. Pulrose Motors in Pwlhelli did the work and they were awesome. All the new running gear was painted over in protectant and they also did the rest of the running gear up front as well. They gave me a "loaner" for a couple of days and all in all they were just terrific.
Just wanted to share.
Phil
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My girlfirend's 1.0i petrol Seat Arosa has had starting problems and issues with power for a while and I was wondering if anyone can offer suggestions- I've only ever owned and fiddled with diesel cars! This first manifested itself as intermittent losses of power when driving and progressed to having to turn the engine over for ages to get a start. It eventually broke down completely and she had it towed to the nearest garage. They have cleaned the breather pipes, replaced plugs and cables and done a few other things (I don't have details as information is coming via my girlfriend) but the problem still seems to be present and they seem to be clutching at straws now.
To me it seems to be some sort of fuel supply issue- the engine turns rapidly so I don't think it's the battery though I haven't checked voltage as yet. The starting problem seems to be worst if the car has stood overnight which makes me wonder if air is getting into the system somewhere and the fuel slipping all the way back into the tank. Or could it be a fuel pumping/ injection issue? I'd welcome any suggestions as repeated visits to the garage are getting tedious...... Read more
toyota auris 2.0d4d sr 62k on the clock, dealers say its worth £5500 -£6000
1 owner plus demo , fsh . ... Read more
I got a V60 D3 ES manual in June, 7000 miles up now and loving it.
Here's my owner's diary: http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=91535
hi, i,m new here but have been looking at the comments the back room post .
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I've only test driven the previous shape s60
The pick of the bunch, IMO is a 55 plate - with the old 163bhp D5 - much much more economical than the 'upgraded' D5 - and no DPF!...
I have a 2008 wrx Sti type uk at 44,000 miles when I bought it was said cam belt due at 50,000 but since read several differant milages eg 42k(Subaru forum) , 60k, (subaru dealer) and one even web site says inspect at 60k replace at 109k!!! what's right please help
I asked hj and I'm unsure of his answer the way the reply email came trough is confusing I think it said- now
Confused
Neil Read more
I used to have a 2litre non turbo impreza. the cambelt on that was 5 years or 50,000miles as said above..the part at the time on its own cost £100 and could only be found at the main dealer....
also change the other front mounted belt.......
Hi! I have an old 2002 Vauxhall Omega 2.2 CD Automatic.
It has an occasional, slight shudder through the drive-train at about 50/55 mph which, I think, is not wheel related. On top of that, if I rest my hand on the selector, I can feel a slight movement to and froe through the selector lever when accelerating and decelerating as if it were a manual and I've never known this having owned many automatics. Very occasionally, I will lose drive altogether for a few seconds as if I'd pressed an imaginary clutch pedal. I have heard that this is not an unknown problem on larger engined Vauxhall automatics. Obviously the momentary loss of drive is the most worrying problem. Be very grateful for any info! Cheers! Read more
Have a look on the Opie website - for each product they give complete compatibility and approval information.
Hi there, hope someone can help.
We appear to have white smoke coming out of out exhaust, It didnt do this until our friend topped up the oil. Is it possible its been overfilled? the dipstick level appears higher than usual. can we drain it without any problems via the dip stick? Or is it likely there could be another problem.... Read more
Check the oil level when the engine is cold and the car parked on a level base. If the oil level is materially higher than the "max" marking you must drain some oil out by releasing the oil drain nut in the sump for a short time (and catching the oil in a container!) unless you have access to a siphon facility to use via the dipstick. If the oil level is correct, it could be the normal water condensation evaporating to steam that you see, especially in colder weather. But this should diminish/disappear when the engine is at working temperature.
You should not keep running the engine when the oil level is showing materially above the max as other problems are likely to occur ie crankshaft seals starting to leak oil, that are costly to fix.
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Many thanks Bromptonaut