August 2011
2001 Peugeot 306...1.9d non turbo.. 120,000 miles.. In Spain.. very good shape.. I just returned from a 700 mile roadtrip. After approximately 200 miles I was driving on the highway around 65mph and all of a sudden the tyipical "nuts and bolts in a coffee can" noise appeared and was impossible to miss, much louder than the normal idle noise.. I pulled off the highway and the noise went in time with the rev's.. I drove a few hundred meters to a service station and the noise persisted... I turned off the car and asked if a mechanic was there and was told he was a block away .. so i started the car.. and the noise had disappeared.. to my delight I threw caution to the wind and continued on the road another 500 miles there and back and I did hear the noise one morning on start up but just for two seconds..Since then all is normal.. .. any ideas?.. Read more
2001 Peugeot 306...1.9d non turbo.. 120,000 miles.. In Spain.. very good shape.. I just returned from a 700 mile roadtrip. After approximately 200 miles I was driving on the highway around 65mph and all of a sudden the tyipical "nuts and bolts in a coffee can" noise appeared and was impossible to miss, much louder than the normal idle noise.. I pulled off the highway and the noise went in time with the rev's.. I drove a few hundred meters to a service station and the noise persisted... I turned off the car and asked if a mechanic was there and was told he was a block away .. so i started the car.. and the noise had disappeared.. to my delight I threw caution to the wind and continued on the road another 500 miles there and back and I did hear the noise one morning on start up but just for two seconds..Since then all is normal.. .. any ideas?.. Read more
First check your oil level if OK could be a belt tensioner or alternator or water pump bearing
I have a slight misfire when pulling out of a roundabout or pulling away. I have been advised it could be due to the boost solenoid..My main query is, where is this solenoid situated?Is it easy to change? I have changed the injector loom. and also the coolant sensor. This was not a genuine VW part, Could it be down to this being wrong?
Any advice appeciated!... Read more
Remove the airduct on the LHS as you look at it and under there is N75 the solenoid. However I dout that is your problem, yes you would loose power but that would not make is mis-fire. Regards Peter
i have replaced my timing chain and the crankshaft sprocket does not turn with the crankshaft is this normal at this stage with the side cover off? engine set to top dead center both the cams set to top dead center at present in locked position.
After removing the timing peg and the cam locking bar i attempted to move the engine clockwise but the timing chain did not operate as the crankshaft sprocket did not turn with the crank. I stopped and reset the crank to top dead center and reinserted the timing peg the cams did not move but are now locked need help desperately can you help? Please Read more
Moved to Technical.
Replaced timing chain engine set at top dead centre crank set top dead centre on rotation of crankshaft after removal of timing peg and camshaft bar the crankshaft sprocket is not rotating timing chain at this point the timing case cover is off is this normal or do i need to replace side to do the two engine revolutions even though the crankshaft sprocket does not rotate with crankshaft? Read more
You are not making any sensr. You say you are rotating the crankshaft yetyou say your crankshaft spocket does not rotate. If that is the case the chain will not moce the the camshaft will not move. Why are you changing the chain, had it snapped. You may have sheared the crankshaft sprocket keyway. Regards Peter
I enjoy reading HJ's reviews very much and this comment is nothing particularly about his review but i wanted to draw attention to this bizarre engine choice from Kia highlighted in the review. Although the review states the car hasnt arrived yet i was particularly depressed with this.
Fitted with a special 1.1 litre 3 cylinder turbodiesel engine, it’s the lowest emitting internal combustion engined car in the World.... Read more
You seem unfamiliar with vehicle usage patterns in rural areas, where popping off to see friends every day of going to a difft shop may involve a 30-miles-each-way trip
Well its not like i live in London i am aware there is countryside, i dont live in the middle of nowhere i just dont find myself on rural roads that often, so fair point, possibly....
Hi
I have a kangoo 51 and after a short drive my brakes seem to stick. The brake peddle only requires a touch to slow the van and both brakes over heat.... Read more
If teyve been overheating that much you may of boiled the fluid causing expansion and worse problems with sticking / less pedal travel. Only real solution would be remove calipers, clean and thouroughly free off, new pads, check discs for warping and a good pressure bleed through with new fluid. Also is it a dci? Check the vac pump and servo for good vaccuum.
Just picked up a cheap C5 estate which appears to have a leaking head gasket,drove it 450 miles home without a problem though.The whole top end had a complete rebuild only 11000 miles ago at a cost of £2353 (prior to me getting it )and I'm a bit reluctant to do the head again , it uses very little water but you can see the gasses bubbling in the expansion bottle.
Do products like K seal work and if they do how long do they work for and do they cause any damage to the engine if they don't work and you have to do the head again.... Read more
I live in New Zealand, had a Nissan Laurel Diesel, a Toyota Corolla, a Toyota V6 Camary, and I use a product called SealWell, it is made in America. Google it and you will read about it. But their is many of them on the market now and since I started in the motor trade as a mechanic they now just seem to work. The man I buy it from say the Car Salesman Robbers buy it by the carton, and it works. If it does not then you have no hope. But so far it has always worked. Good luck. New Zealand Mechanic with 46 years of experience.
Apologies if a similar thing has been asked before.
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Your first thing to do would be to approach the dealer in a nice way before shouting legislation at them. They might be more co-operative than you think.
Your problem is that it is a 100k sub £4k car with a clutch issue. The dealer could simply argue that 100k is acceptable mileage for the components concerned. Cars have to be "satisfacotry" but that takes into account age, mileage, price paid etc. so you won't get anywhere near as far on this car as you would a 10k 2 year old one you paid £12k for....
First posting on the board. I've been a loyal reader of HJ in the newspapers for years and am new to the website. What I've read so far seems great. I hope I can maybe offer some advice to people too.
I'm looking to buy a current shape (E92) diesel BMW 3 series coupe. I've found a 2008 105k mileage in exactly the model/colour that I like and at a good price. It comes with a full service history and seems in good condition. It looks like the car has just done a lot of motorway miles. It is no longer under BMW warranty.... Read more
>The medium size long established dealer i bought my MB from 9 years ago told me the warranty he presented with the car wasn't worth the paper it was written on, as are the vast majority of if not all aftermarket warranties IMO, can't fault a man who tells it like it is.
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Sounds like something possibly loose inside but spending most of its time jammed away somewhere. Removed the clutch inspection cover on the gearbox and check inside there, whip the cam cover off and look in there then maybe drop the sump and have a quick look, taking note for any debris in the oil on draining (maybe use a seize). Easy to check for big end trouble at this point also.