May 2011

scot113

Before I take car to garage anyone any ideas what could cause a whining noise at 40mph then at 60mph. Noise sounds like fan belt on way out but not as loud and doesn't happen at start up.

Had wheel bearings at rear replaced few months back but this is not same noise and is not constant.... Read more

scot113

Car fixed! (I hope)

Rear brakes at fault, one side really bad which is a tad embarrassing though I know my way around pcs better than cars....

chrizla

I had an accident on Sunday. I was hit at the front by a car travelling at speed. In terms of liability, neither of us have admitted, so it could mean that the insurance process becomes a bit drawn out.

My car is currently at my Insurer's approved repairer awaiting inspection. I have no idea whether it will be written off or not, or any idea how much the damage is likely to cost. I have checked the market value on a number of reputable sites and the value is coming out at around 4,500GBP... Read more

LucyBC

We deal with the third party insurers on your behalf.

We take a view on the risk and the issue of fault and the bill goes to the third party insurer if we get it right and we absorb the costs if we get it wrong....

Chris Adam

Sorry I posted this message in the 'Motoring discussion' forum just now, but just realised that maybe it should be in the 'Technical matters' forum! Please move or delete one of the posts if needed - thanks!

Hello all, I'm here after ages but used to visit daily for a few years! Hope you're all well. Thought it best to come back to the experts.

I need to buy 4 tyres ( 205/55 R16 , 91V ) for my Ford Focus 2006 (1.6 petrol hatchback). Have been doing loads of research, including looking at Which? and tyre review websites. The best performing brands in the Which? tests are: 1st: Continental, 2nd: Michelin, 3rd: Bridgestone. They also do well in other tests, so I've been looking at the following tyres:

Continental Sport Contact 2
Continental Premium Contact 2
Michelin Primacy HP
Bridgestone Turanza ER300


I was going to order one of the Continentals, but then came across lots of customer reviews saying that they wear out quickly. It seems that many people think that Continentals wear out quickly in general. As it's expensive to buy 4 tyres fully-fitted, I would be grateful for your input about your experiences with these and any other tyres. Which of the Continentals would you buy, if any, or what else do you suggest? Plus is it worth buying wheel alignment?

Also, I was going to order them from blackcircles.com, but please let me know if you have any other recommendations! Many thanks in advance for your advice. Read more

unthrottled

Regarding tyre/road noise, this is an achilles heel of the Focus

Very true-especially in the wagon version! We replaced the rear wheel bearings because the noise was so bad-turned out to be hard cheap tyres....

mk4golfman

Hi, have just found out that my front passenger side coil spring is broken and needs replacing. The drivers side coil spring was replaced about 8-9 months ago, don't know any details about the replacement as didn't do the job myself. Can i just go out and get another coil spring and just replace the broken side ONLY, or do i need to replace both sides? It would seem a shame to replace the drivers side that doesn't need replacing yet. Read more

unthrottled

I tried replacing a single cracked spring; the other side went shortly after. When one spring loses it's stength, the stress on the other one increases and this seems to cause rapid failure.

56chevy

Posting this in the hope it will help others diagnose this - it is IMHO a desgin and durability issue with serious consequences but needless to say, Jaguar aren't interested.
This fault can manifest itself as -

Multiple fault messgages displayed which clear themselves after time or on restart (including engine check light, DSC not available, Cruise not available)
Handbrake fault and inability to release handbrake
Headlight or headlights not working
Speedo and guages "die" whilst driving accompanied by multiple warnings - some serious looking (but not correct) like "brake fluid low".

In my case these were traced to the earth points behind the headlights which had disintegrated due to corrosion.

The preventative measure is to check and grease the earth studs.

My local franchised dealer made a temporary repair and advised me they couldn't do a permament one.
Jag CS told me I have to take the car to another dealer soem distance away for a permanent repair at my expense, rather than my local franchised dealer.
The car was out of Jag Wanrranty (but within corrosion warranty) Jaguar refused to consider a corrosion warranty claim. Read more

craig-pd130

Manufacturers would probably claim this to be an age-related electrical problem, not a corrosion issue ... of course the earthing points will suffer accelerated corrosion because of the connections anyway :-/

Pilotman

What are the general good/bad points about buying an ex-demonstrator ??? Read more

SteveLee

As people tend to drive their cars far too gently during the "break in" period, a soundly thrashed engine will probably out-last the "cared for" one, have lower oil consumption and make more power.

I'd never buy a new car unless it's a cheap runabout. Let someone else fix the build issues and take the initial depreciation hit. Motorcycles on the other hand, I nearly always buy new - you can't drop a car!! :-)

knappoo

Hi all im new to this and require some help.

I have a astra mk4 1.6 8v club 1998, i recently put it thru an mot about a month ago and taxed it and was really enjoying having a car on the road as i was without one for 2 months. Everything was going good apart from drinking alot of petrol.

i woke up one morning and was planning a day out with the wife and kids and had trouble starting it but after about 10 mins it started. was driving along and noticed it sounded alot deeper than normal, only to realise that over night some cheeky fu**er had stolen my bore exhaust. Was told that it would be fine to drive if i could put up with the noisse and rich smell of petrol so we decided to carry on driving it but noticed it was slightly sluggish due to the obvious no back pressure.

then after a couple of days of driving with no backbox it decided to lose its power. managed to get it up the hill in 1st gear then it started sounding like a tractor pulled up and popped the bonnet and the engine was juddering a hell of a lot. then it cut out and wouldnt start.. luckily we wasnt too far from home so pushed it and rolled it down hills.

ffollowing day managed to jump start it but still sounds like a tractor and engine juddering. checked spark plugsand cleaned. still the same., but noticed that when ticking over and pulling off ht leads the engine cut out apart from the 3rd one it wud run the same. is this normal? you can rev the balls off it when idle buttheres hardly any power to drive at all and when driving it just wants to stall. also there is a hissing noise coming from the throttle body when ticking over., is that normal?

PLEASE ANYBODY ANY IDEAS/SOLUTIONS?

Thanks sam
Read more
unthrottled

'Italian tune up' is basically drive it hard and hope the noise goes away!

Were any of the spark plug electrodes a funny colour eg soot deposits, very white etc? They should all be light tan coloured.

alfatrike

i have a 3 button remote for my '04 transit like ebay Item number: 170629993557 but my images on the buttons are quite worn

i have to get closer and closer to the van to use the remote central locking. ... Read more

alfatrike

Alternately, RTFM can help ;o)

i would if i had one....

Chris S

There is a screw through my tyre about 1cm from the shoulder. Is it too near to be patched?

Read more

gsb

Sidewall repair by http://www.protyre.co.uk/faqsdesc.aspx?id=4

lfcphil

I have a ford fiesta zetec 1.25 W reg,the engine has recently developed a severe misfire only when the engine is warm. I have replaced the plugs,leads and coil pack all new parts and it is still misfiring. Can anyone help please Read more

Railroad.

Check to make sure the ignition coil is switching on both sides. The coil is actually two coils in one unit. One fires cylinders 1 & 4, and the other fires cylinders 2 & 3. On the coil unit is a plug with three wires. The centre wire is a common live ignition supply to each of the two coils, and the two outside wires are the ECU switch for each coil. If you have a noid lamp connect it to the plug to the centre terminal and one of the outer terminals. Crank the engine and the lamp should flash. If it does then one of the coils is being switched. The connect the lamp to the centre terminal and the other outer terminal and crank the engine again. As before the lamp should flash. If it does not flash then the coil is not being switched. This is likely due to a failed ignition module which is an integral part of the ECU, or a poor connection or broken wire between the coil unit and the ECU.